Blade CP stability

[VengeanceCP]

Post anything here that might make a big difference in the stability of a Blade CP's or CP Pro's. From must have upgrades, to fine tune adjustments. Share your secrets guys!

[borocouncilman]

Flat bottom blades.

Too many beginners buy CP Pros and start out with the symmetrical blades. The helicopter is significantly more stable with flat bottom blades. Set the symmetrical ones aside until you've got a handle on things.

Helis do "get more stable" over time as your skills progress.

[txflyer]

while it is more stable, id stick sym blades. your going to have to get used to them at some point so why put it off.. flat bottem blades creat more lift then sym blades. so when the wind hits the heli it will climb faster with less wind.. sym blades wont climb as bad and it will take more wind hitting the heli to make it climb..


if you have a aftermarket radio, turn the throttle curves up.. my cp pro felt really good with normal curves set to 0-58-88... idle up i ran 100-97-100, belt driven tail will make it to where you can focus ont he cyclic and not the rudder. added weight will make the heli more stable, just make sure you dont put to much, i used 7g stickie lead weights on my heli for awhile...

[borocouncilman]

There is no substitute for headspeed, but if you've got the stock radio, you're out of luck.

[txflyer]

ya the stock setup is super super weak. i had my normal curves set to 0-35-70 and it was still alittle faster then stock. so the stock radio setup on hs sucks big time.. but do remember this, while you can crash now and only have a few things if any bust. the higher the head speed, the more ecrap crap that breaks..

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

If you decide to upgrade your radio get something you can grow with. DX7 & AR6100 is the only thing I would suggest because it will fit great on a Mini-Titan or T-Rex450 down the road.

Try adding more flybar weight. You know those round wheel collers. Add more of them next to the flybar paddles.

[txflyer]

dx6 will work to if money is a issue if it isnt well then dx7 all the way..

i plan on running either my swift 550 or hdx500 or hurrican 550 with my dx6. but i wont use the dx6 on anything bigger then those.. i still cant make my mind up on witch one to get

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

dx6 will work to if money is a issue if it isnt well then dx7 all the way..

i plan on running either my swift 550 or hdx500 or hurrican 550 with my dx6. but i wont use the dx6 on anything bigger then those.. i still cant make my mind up on witch one to get
These are the hot ticket

Logo 10 for $190 from www.Modefos.com People than own them rave over the quality and performance. Runs on 500mm blades and is 4s Lipo capable... I would go with a 5s or 6s Lipo if it were me.

Logo 500 3D if you got $459 Sweet!!! Runs 500mm to 550mm blades 5s to 8s Lipo

I'm drooling over the new Logo 600 3D coming out any day!! $569 pricy but swings 600mm to 650mm blades!!

[Skiddz]

Definitely more headspeed is in order. Stock Tx it's possible if you bolt in a BL motor and a properly sized pinion. Computer Tx is even easier. Up the Throttle curves. Mine's got both and it's pretty stable (for what it is) at 2200 RPM.. don't forget to make sure the tail rotor is dialed in to deal with the higher headspeed. (I like the DD approach with GWS 3030 props)

[VengeanceCP]

So you guys are saying if I get my blades spinning faster it might handle a little better? I am making progress by the way. I can jitter it around in my garage fairly comfortably. I will not be as intimidated once I get the crash resistant blades, courtesy of LITHIUMSTATIC. The constant tail drift to one way or the other is the only thing really ticking me off, despite my constant effort to trim them.

Thanks for the tips guys,

KEEP EM COMMMING =D

[txflyer]

ive been drooling over the swift 550 for about 2 months tho, then i saw the swift i think 620 se. pure sex right there buddy. then on you tube i saw a flight video of the hdx 500 and it seemed to do pretty good. ive heard that the tail lacks authority. even using bigger tail rotors. so the hdx500 is at the bottem of the list. another thing is dont want to have to buy a 5s or 6s pack.. id rather get a bigger heli i can build up over time. lol who am i kidding id have it built by sun up the next day... neways i want my next heli to be .50 to .60 sized heli that runs off trex packs with the deans connecter to run 2 trex packs for power.then down the road i will buy a 6s pack.. but once i get a large electric it will be the last electric.. ive flown several larger helis.. helis that one of them the battery packs cost like 600 each... joker....but for a .90 either a vibe .90 i love the way they fly , they are mind blowning awsome, or the aurora... but ive heard aurora's lack the stability that a serious 3d machine needs. in realflight at the lhs i spend about 30 minutes on there setup messing around. i only fly 2 helis in the sim either the avant aurora 3d or the raptor 90se. i like the way the avant responds but it does feel like it has alittle less stability then any other .90 heli in the sim.. then again it is just a sim. i cannot compare my trex to it cuz i dont mess around the tiny helis in the sim..go big or go home and play with the little heli...

[VengeanceCP]

ya the stock setup is super super weak. i had my normal curves set to 0-35-70 and it was still alittle faster then stock. so the stock radio setup on hs sucks big time.. but do remember this, while you can crash now and only have a few things if any bust. the higher the head speed, the more ecrap crap that breaks..

What do you guys mean by stock curves and what not, ??? 0-35-70 ???

Sorry if its a stupid question.. I'm just new.

[txflyer]

tha tail drift, well get used to it these items help to almost get rid of it

tail esc

there are a few out there people use, i used a pixie 20p by castle creations, even with the stock ecrap pack. it almost got rid of all of my tail drift.. enough so i didnt worrie to much about the belt drive upgrade for any other reason then it was pimp..

better packs

electrifly 910
tp 910
fp 900

id pick from those there all about the same... the electrifly packs that have the same white balance plug as the eflite packs, can be used with the stock cp pro charger from eflite. but i think the electrifly 910 packs that have the white balance plug on them are the POWER SERIES packs.. i have one of there 1500ma 3s 20c power serious packs. i flew it a ahndful of times in my pro. it had way more power then i knew what to do with.. but now its in my dx6 it took like 10 minutes for my dx6 to dropfrom 12.6v to 12.5v. im going to try it out on my trex when i get my 401 here.. it shipped today..my legs are still twitching and prolly wont stop by the time it gets here...

if you run a tail esc it means your running full seperates. problem with the tail is
a) ecrap used those weak ass tiny motors
b) ecrap used weak ass packs
c) ecrap used a weak ass 3n1

the 3n1 CANNOT supply enough voltage to the tail motor for it hold when you do a full climb out ( throttle punch) i had to get in the habbit of mixing in some right rudder when i went full throttle.. its easy when you punch it just move the left stick up and slightly to the right..it was a pain.. the pixie 20p was already programmed the way i wanted it.. its small and very light weight..they cost about 25 to 30 bucks.. the gws esc i think ecj50 or something like that. the one that is ment for lipos is even smaller...carbon cf blades are by far the best blades hands down for the pro.. they fly the best imo and as well as a few others on this part of the board. i flew over grass and had god 20 to 25 crashes on the set i had..no damage, no nothing...if i was in a parking lot or street they would have shattered... another thing i noticed is that when i got the blue eflite cnc swash it helped overing out enough for me to notice. see the stock plastic swash flex's the cnc doesnt.. it helps, i also had cnc mixing arms, those took ALOT of the slop out of the head. i also installed a washer behind the bearings in the blade grips and in front of the orings in the head. i lvoed that upgrade more then anything. but it makes the heli more responsive. the controls or crisper. i only idd upgrades to help the performance of the heli. another upgrade would the micro heli main shaft and autorotation gear. auctally just the gear. www.plastix.com if that link isnt correct lemme know.. they sell ejector pins. these things are liek 10x's strong and run more truer then the micro heli main shafts. ive heard of up to like 5 crashs on one of the ejector pin main shafts with out bending.. the thing is they ship cod only and only to a business. when you order online just make up a name. i was i going to use my last job or my last name with a inc. throwin on the end of it.. there is a post made about these somewhere in the eflite area.. it lists the size you need. the pins are only a few bucks each and you can get 2 shafts out of one pin.. wow thats alot of typing. sorry for typo's and miss spelling ive been kicking a 6er or 2 back with the misses and some friends tonight.. if youdont understand something lemme know i will explain it when im in a normal state of mind

[txflyer]

the 0-35-70 is the throttle curves

with a better radio you fine tune the heli you can change how much power is givin according stick position. so with 0 being the left stick all the way down. 35 is at center stick and 70 is at high stick or full throttle..so if you wanted to run a higher head speed.

so lets say you run those curves, after a few flights you fell that the heli is bobing to much up and down when no wind is blowing. your constantly moving the left stick up and down to keep the heli from lowering or gaining height. you would go to your throttle curves and chang ethe mid stick to lets say 50 then spin up again and lift in the hover. you will instantly see and hear the throttle curve change you made. cuz from the stick being all the way down then to center. your going from 0% power to 50% power. instead of going from 0% to 35%.. im sure one else can explain this better then me right now but the thing is

AS SOON AS YOU ARE HOOKED GO BUY A RADIO STAY SPEKTRUM...DX6 OR DX7

the dx7 is by far better. at first i didnt mind the point pich and throttle curves... but now i wish i had the 5 point adjustments that the dx7 offers,,, you can add more pitch or reduce pitch. you can add or reduce expo.wich numbs the stick around the center postitions on both sticks. i found that 3% on my pro was perfect for me.. down load and watch the finless videos for the trex 450 build.it will explain alot on the setup.. plus every and anything he says in those build videos can for pretty much any heli...

[txflyer]

oh and even tho at first every one feels stupid, dont rc helis from what ive got a super confusing but one day the time will come that it will all just click.. if you have to ask questions to understand stuff then your progressing. not to discourage you, but if you think getting the head setup good on a heli is hard, just wait till you dive into the world of radio setup.. once you got those figured out all thats left to rack your brain over is flying.. it took me 3 days to get my dx6 setup for my pro..when you get a new radio if its a dx6im more then happy to explain things to you and help you out with your setup.. DONT USE THE HORIZON SETTINS they creat more head ache then there worth.. the best thing for you and even still for me. is RESEARCH i spend hours at a time just looking around at different areas on this site and reading everything i can....the search button is your bestestest friend ....

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

What do you guys mean by stock curves and what not, ??? 0-35-70 ???

Sorry if its a stupid question.. I'm just new.

Man don't ever feel like any question is dumb. We are all here to help and that's what makes Heli Freak unique. Low to no drama.... just helis and friendships.

I will get those rubber blades out tomorrow if all runs smooth in my day.

[VengeanceCP]

W O W you guys know a lot. I am glad people like your guys are there to help. So I guess I have to start saving my pennies for a new spectrum radio. Now... what did you mean by 3 point curves in the dx6 and 5 in the dx7? Since I am a newbie will I even notice a difference in a dx6 or dx7?

Oh and I realized that I bent my main shaft in it as well, not very noticeably but slightly. And I got a new 4 cell li-po battery. I have a heat sink for the main motor but its probably a good idea to get one for the tail end of it eh?

Great help so far guys, thanks a bunch.


Oh by the way txfyler, I heard the swift blows. Get a T-Rex

(See if that hits a nerve, haha =D)

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Now... what did you mean by 3 point curves in the dx6 and 5 in the dx7? Since I am a newbie will I even notice a difference in a dx6 or dx7?

And I got a new 4 cell li-po battery. I have a heat sink for the main motor but its probably a good idea to get one for the tail end of it eh?



Jermo has a DX7 review video that is awesome!!! It will show you what all the curves mean. Oh and if you do buy another radio it's way worth it to go with a DX7. The DX6 is good but doesn't even touch a DX7 and I really hate to see you buy something your going to regret later.

A 4s LIPO!!!! NO!!!!!!!!! You will fry everything on your heli! Get a 1320 3 cell Lipo from Thunder Power!

[txflyer]

ya 4s lipo.. wow ya as lith said you will fry everything.. it make work for of about 4 seconds. then puff everything goes dead and all you see is either white smoke or fire..

i do have a trex450 if the trex500 comes out between now and when i got the money to throw down im prolly go with that..

the 3 point curves in a dx6 means that... throttle curves and pitch curves has 3 points of adjusmtnet..eie.. normal mode throttle curves 0-55-88 on a dx7 i could do 0-35-50-73-88.. it will make the power delivery alittle smoother

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

DX7 review thread!!! Read this thread and watch the video VengeanceCP, it will be a big help!

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=28681&page=6

[VengeanceCP]

ya 4s lipo.. wow ya as lith said you will fry everything.. it make work for of about 4 seconds. then puff everything goes dead and all you see is either white smoke or fire..


Oooppps, I meant a 3 cell li-po. Scared you guys didn't I. =D

[VengeanceCP]

So yeah, I now have two 3-cell 800mah Li-Po batteries. Jeez does it make a difference. I actually hovered it around in my garage for about 15 minutes, and for the most part it was actually in the air and not just hopping around! Only one crash, which is an improvement for me, =D but I did mess one of my cf blades up = ( For the first time I actually was tired of flying the helicopter before the battery was.

I could feel the constant power in it, and I definitely enjoy flying more now. The Li-Po put the Ni-Md batteries to shame. I think the last bug I need to work out of my CP, (now that I have an understanding of pitch; for a wile mine was negative,) would be the slightly bent main shaft. I purchased a new one but I do not really know how to take it apart. Also I ordered a CNC swash plate for it. > = D

Thanks for all your help guys,

-Your karma will reward you all for
guiding this newbie in the right direction.

~ FLY ON! ~

[txflyer]

the best way to see the power of a lipo and the difference between lets say a 800ma 3s pack and 1500ma 3s pack is with a surface car or truck.. i used to race electric off road with a team associated rc10t4 2wd stadium truck with a novak 5800 brushless system.. with helis its ahrder to feel the difference but with cars and trucks the difference is BIG.. the higher the ma the longer the run times, and the more punch and power the pack has.. thats why most guys who run electric cars and trucks runn 4800ma 3s packs..go pick up an rtr rc18 it can off your ecrap packs. helli my 1/10 scale stadium brushless truck ran for 2 minutes off a 800ma eflite ecrap pack.. it was actually faster and more punch then my 3800 nimh team associated rocket packs...