quick swashplate

[nitro burner]

:? I was getting alot of slop in the stock swashplate on my 50 raptor so i replaced it with a Quick UK swash the slop is now gone but if i have binding problem ween i go into negtive, I found the stock collar was blinding the Quick swashplate ween i move it to its lowest point so then i ordered the Quick collar but it also limits how much negtive is useable what i mean at the swash's lowest point there is a lose of cyclic do to binding of the swash with the collar do guys have any ideas?????

[Al Magaloff]

I put the collar on top of the lower bearing. You need to make a simple spacer 3mm thick, from the inner race of a bad main shaft bearing. This spacer spaces the collar away from the plastic of the frames were the lower bearing sits.

[nitro burner]

I put the collar on top of the lower bearing. You need to make a simple spacer 3mm thick, from the inner race of a bad main shaft bearing. This spacer spaces the collar away from the plastic of the frames were the lower bearing sits.
Thats a great idea but i have seen raptor's with the collar on the top using the Quick swashplate but can't find any info on that collar, until i can i will try you idea, thanks
Can you place a pic of your setup?

[Al Magaloff]

I' ve also seen the pictures, but was not able to get full negative and some degree of cyclic at the same time. QUK originall had a tappered, very thin aluminum collar, with four set screws opposing at 180*. I tried it at first, only to have the opposing set screws break the collar, while under way. Pitch flattened out as the main shaft slid down. Not pretty! Second attempt was a steel collar I made, with the QUK dimensions, and two set screws @ 90*, plus receiver dings in the main shaft to accept the screw's points. That worked OK, but still limited cycli at full negative. I thought I could do better, so version three, was a Bergen split collar on top of the bottom bearing. Been flying it that way for 3-4 years now. Keep in mind, though, that you would rarely if ever ask for full cyclic and full negative pitch at the same time. A picture wouldn't really show much, without disassembly. No doubt that will hapopen soon enough! :lol:

[nitro burner]

Thanks so much for your help. But why wound Quick make a sawashplate that is so hard to setup? :roll: It was running me nuts :arggg:. I have started to remove the main shaft and move the collar. Thanks again

[Al Magaloff]

The swashplate is not hard to set-up, but does have different dimensions from the stock plastic or aluminum units. Their fans with the brass tapered collar are junk too. You don't dare put an indicator on one. You'll be very disappointed, as I was 4-5 times before I learned my lesson. As always, YMMV.

[HelicopterJohn]

nitro burner

Al is correct and I like his idea of of installing a 3mm spacer and a Bergen split collar on top of the bottom bearing.

The split collar when tightened would not mark the main shaft which would make it a nice solution. Only thing is tightening the setscrew on the collar during installation and loosening it during the removal process. Not in front of one of my raptors so it may be easier than I think.

Al, do you have a picture you could post?

Also, as Al mentioned the distance from center of shaft to the outer balls on the swashplate is different. I think the dimension is smaller.

:)

[Al Magaloff]

I'll see what I can do for a picture John. I strategically locate a hole in the muffler side frame, to pass my Allen driver through, to torque the split collar. I've been doing this mod for so long, I forgot to mention the hole. You're correct John, the swash dimension is shorter, requiring the swashplate to move further, to do the same work.

[HelicopterJohn]

Al,

Thanks for the information. The collar must be pretty close to gray for and aft swivel assembly that goes around the main shaft.

I can always count on my Cobra buddy to come up with a nice fix.

I wonder why Quick made the swashplate dimensions smaller? I didn't notice it until I took some measurements. Got to watch some of this bling stuff. It looks pretty but sometimes it can create more trouble that it is worth.

Maybe you could develop a snorkel for your camera to get in there to take a picture? Ha Ha Just Kidding.

Thanks again for a Great Tip.
:)

[Al Magaloff]

The collar is close to the underside of the gray rocker assy. I chose the Bergen collar, because of the large chamfer on the top side, figuring it would give some added clearance. But wasn't needed after all. I made my spacer thickness just thick enough, so the bottom side of the collar clears the plastic of the frames. This allows it to sit as low as possible. I bought a QUK swash for my new EVO, and they give you longer balls to make up for the smaller diameter swash. So, someone is learning the lessons!

[AMainMaker]

I put the QUK swash on my 50 and my 90. I thought it required less travel to get the same cyclic pitch. I kept the links the same length for a test to see how much it improved and I had 6 degrees of cyclic pitch wiht the stock swash one my 50 and when Idid the switch it had 8 degrees with the same setup. I did do the entire head so I am not sure if the swash in conjunction with the QUK head made the cyclic difference but it did increase greatly. As for the collar I use the tapered end up towards the bottom of the swash and havn't any binding at all in full negative. You might not have the new collar. You might try contacting QUK to see if you have the right collar or not.
Hope this helps
Jason

[Al Magaloff]

I noticed the QUK heads are very different in some dimensions, on the 60/90 size.

[nitro burner]

Jason you may be right ,I looked on Raptor technique at the collar he runs and it has the taperd end you was talking about the collar i have has a taperd end but not like the one in the pic's from Rapor Tech, I think i can turn the one i have down so it will clear, The head i'm running on the 50 is the tt all metal head wound this have something to do with the problem cound this head just not work well with this swashplate?

[AMainMaker]

I dont have any experience wiht the TT aluminum head. But I did notice it was better going form the stock plastic head to the QUK. As for it posing a problem the way it seems to me is most after market manufacterers are making there parts as close to stock as possible. As for visual difference I cant really see what would be so different for you not to have the out come I did wiht my QUK head comapred to you TT. As for pitch I can get mine set to where I can put the swash at full tilt on the frame and get 11 degrees of - pitch and 8 degrees of cyclic pitch wihtout binding. It might just be somehtign as simple as setting upi your links. That is a good practice I have been playing with and it seems to make the heli fly so much better and smooth.
I hope you get things worked out
Jason