aramsdell
09-18-2007, 09:21 PM
I've been chasing a nagging vibe on my new Swift AP ship. I had everything balanced and the mains pitches the same and I finally discovered that the paddles were ever so slightly out. I had put my pitch guage on them and thought I was good to go.
Tonight I had a brainstorm. I cut a slot in a piece of balsa and slid it on over the paddle until snug, wedging at the front and back, not in the middle. I ran a small strip of 1/8" balsa above the paddle and parrallel to it. I taped a laser pointer in the groove of the balsa strip and main piece of balsa so it is basically parrallel to the paddle. I made a flybar lock/rest so I could consistantly rotate the head and get the flybar exactly in the same position(up/down).
I put the balsa 'level' over the paddle and turned it on.
15 feet away I put a piece of painters' tape on the wall where the laser was hitting. Swapped to the other paddle noticed a big difference. (at this point it is best to make sure one of the paddles is as level to the rest of the head as you can. When you are done at least both paddles are at the same angle.) There may be a little slop in your head so to be consistant, rotate the paddle gently on the fly bar and stop at the end of the slop in one direction.
Make the mark on the wall with the painters' tape. Change paddles. Move the paddle, to get rid of slop, the same way then note what to do to bring the paddle in line with the other. Pliers and gentle twisting.
I test flew immediately after and what a difference. this method amplifies the size of a protractor type level by about a 1000 times ! Depending on how far away the wall is a degree could be quite a few inches.
It took me longer to type this than it did to make it out of scrap balsa.
Tonight I had a brainstorm. I cut a slot in a piece of balsa and slid it on over the paddle until snug, wedging at the front and back, not in the middle. I ran a small strip of 1/8" balsa above the paddle and parrallel to it. I taped a laser pointer in the groove of the balsa strip and main piece of balsa so it is basically parrallel to the paddle. I made a flybar lock/rest so I could consistantly rotate the head and get the flybar exactly in the same position(up/down).
I put the balsa 'level' over the paddle and turned it on.
15 feet away I put a piece of painters' tape on the wall where the laser was hitting. Swapped to the other paddle noticed a big difference. (at this point it is best to make sure one of the paddles is as level to the rest of the head as you can. When you are done at least both paddles are at the same angle.) There may be a little slop in your head so to be consistant, rotate the paddle gently on the fly bar and stop at the end of the slop in one direction.
Make the mark on the wall with the painters' tape. Change paddles. Move the paddle, to get rid of slop, the same way then note what to do to bring the paddle in line with the other. Pliers and gentle twisting.
I test flew immediately after and what a difference. this method amplifies the size of a protractor type level by about a 1000 times ! Depending on how far away the wall is a degree could be quite a few inches.
It took me longer to type this than it did to make it out of scrap balsa.