YS50st issues

[wessa02]

Hi Guys

Im having some major issues with my Ys50st at the moment. For some reason the engine wont run past half stick, it will idle all day long and run the same all the way up through the rev range up to half stick for as long as you like. The moment the heli starts getting light which is just over half stick and the headspeed picks up to about 1700 bang it just stops. Ive reset both mixture needles back to the factory settings i have gone richer and leaner on both needles, I've changed plugs half a dozen times. Whats really got me stumped is that a mate of mine has an identical setup as i do and he is having the same problem (neither one of use has had anything to do with each others helis, I.E tuning, fuels, setups), now where this becomes really wierd i had another mate of mine with me who also knew someone with a YS50 in his new T600n who is really really switched on with model engines. So we gave him a ring and he too is having the same trouble but hes only got three tanks on his, I have 8 on mine and my mate has about 30 on his. I Have been running my motor really rich since the day I got it so its never run hot or lean either. It really has got me stuffed.

any help or ideas would be muchly apprecieated

Cheers

Wes

[RPM 1.5]

Send back to YS Perforamce,I had same problem and sent it to them needed new regulator, mine runs GREAT NOW !!!!!!!!1
Ray

[DavidH]

He is in Australia, so YS Performance will not do warranty work on the engine. They only warranty YS engines purchased in North America.
Probably had to send it back to where it was purchased and let them send it in.Or send it to YS in Japan. I would suggest contacting where you purchased the engine.

David

[Alfred]

Hi Wes
Tates Performance is the Australian Distributor for the YS range.
Here is the link:
http://www.tates.com.au/hobbies.php

[wessa02]

Thanks alfred

I had already track the distributer down to tates as there was a sticker on the under side of the box. I called them and gave a few things to try which didnt work, however were very understanding and reasonable and where more then happy to send parts to me to swap out in a process of elimination and also told me that if i either dont feel confident or have no success just to send it back to them and they will sort it out with either having it repaired or replaced.

I will keep you guys up dated

[Alfred]

Here is one tip that you might want to try.
This was given to me by some other pilots that don't use Forums but was a known trick on the YS engines.
My YS 61ST-2 had the same kind of problem with the added bonus that twhen the engine would be running like a clock, it would then stop instanteniuos at the most inopportune moments. I did about 13-14 forced autos before I ever did my 1st on purpose.LOL
After replacing just about every considerable part and 6 months of trials, here is the tip that finally fixed it:

On a brand new engine or an engine that is not flown every weekend, this is what I remocmmend to do.
Pull out your one way valve that feeds pressure into the tank and clean it with pure fuel thoroughly to remove any trace of oil film. The little plastic disk will get an oil film on it which stops it from working at ad-hoc basis.
Once done and you get the engine working properly, from then on run the engine bone dry.
so...
On the last flight, release the pressure and pinch the fuel line and let the engine run out of fuel (at idle).
Now connect the glow driver and keep turning the engine over until it stops firing.
Not finished yet....
Disconnect the glow driver and open the throttle fully, again turn the engine over with the starter for another 10 seconds.
On your next outing:
With the full tank:
Open throttle full bore and turn the engine over for about 2 bursts of 3-5 seconds. Close throttle to idle position and start the engine in a normal way.
You will find that from there on the engine will run like a sawing maschine.
You don't have to be so anal about it if you fly every weeked.
This certainly fixed all my issues and made the engine 100% reliable and predictable.

[tchavei]

I experienced the same problem Saturday while maiden my YS50... it would take off and die imediately. After changing plugs and fiddleing with the needles I got nowhere. Finally I removed the checkvale, cleaned it and blew through it several times. At first it would just squeek and barely let any air through. After this procedure, it started to work as it should i.e. would let the air through with moderate force and just "clicking" away.

After this the engine started to work as it should and I have 8 tanks in since then without the slightest problem...

Tony

[hookmaker]

Can we have some more review comments on this engine, please - how is it?? I'm seriously considering it instead of the OS50 Hyper for a T-Rex 600N.
/henrik

[tchavei]

Well, all I can say is that I'm not going back to the Hyper. YS is MUCH smoother and consistent. No exhaust fumes in the tank, will tolerate abuse ând power doesn't fade away as in the Hyper.

Getting engine reviews is always tricky. Everyone is going to swear by what he's got installed but I can tell you that I have 3 hypers, OS 70, OS91SZ, YS91 and YS50. From all these, if I had to choose one, it would be the YS50 in its class.

Tony


Tony

[speedpass]

..

[HighLineCBR]

I have the same problem. Brand new engine. I have about half a tank of gas through it. It will idle all day long. As soon as you give it some throttle... and i mean a slight bit, it will die. Does this seam like the same problem everone else is having? Should i follow be procedures below to fix this problem as well?

thanks,

[ghtracey]

I have the same problem. Brand new engine. I have about half a tank of gas through it. It will idle all day long. As soon as you give it some throttle... and i mean a slight bit, it will die. Does this seam like the same problem everone else is having? Should i follow be procedures below to fix this problem as well?

thanks,

Try leaning out the low end, that's a common sympton of running too rich on the low-speed needle.

[archiebald]

I saw the same message at RCU and posted this there.
------------------------------------------------
Don't know if your problems are fixed, and sorry for the long story but here goes.....

I bought a YS50ST back in early summer to replace my venerable TT46Pro. (BTW, I am not a tuning expert, just reporting what I found)

I couldn't get the Hatori 522 pipe I wanted for it at first so I ran it on my old Funtech HN50 that was far too restrictive on back pressure (causing spit back and no power), but the engine ran sweet while I was breaking it in on my standard 23% nitro and OS#8.

When the Hatori arrived, I was excited but severely let down by the engine cutting out in the mid-range, just as described above. After I finally managed to get it off the ground, I had several flame-outs and a couple of bad autos resulting in crash damage. I put new fuel and clunk lines on everything, cleaned everything and I had even tried a YS#2 plug but nothing would really get it transitioning right.

It was so bad, I put my old TT back in the heli just so I could get some flight time. By this time, I had probably about 25~30 tanks through the YS.

I then decided to give it one more chance before sending it back to the factory. I stripped and cleaned the carb and regulator (found nothing), cleaned the check valve (nothing) and re-assembled. However, things were definitely better and during testing of needles, fuel and plugs, the best settings I have found so far are;

30% nitro, Enya #3, low needle 1/2~5/8 turn out, high needle 1 3/4 turn out. (It still doesn't like the OS#8)

Actually, I think I am still too rich on the high needle, because the crank case doesn't even get hot to the touch after flying FFF for a minute or two so I will be trying another couple of clicks in this weekend.

I know the low needle setting looks too lean, and it does hang a little when returning to idle, but believe me, overall it runs best at this setting. I tried all settings on the needles before and if the low needle is too far out, the transition problem just gets worse and worse. There is no way mine will transition at all if I were to set the idle needle to 1 3/4 as described in the OP.

Also, I played with my throttle curve in Normal and I have found best results at 0 - 38 - 40 - 55 - 80. The important point is step 2 at 38%. If I set it back to 20~25% it seems to be worse. My Normal pitch curve is low -5deg, mid 0deg and high 10.5deg (Idle 1 and 2 are straight -10.5, 0, +10.5). I think this relationship between throttle and pitch in Normal helps the engine to get on song before the rotors start going positive pitch.

The only difference between the earlier testing and now is the air temp. In summer it was 30+degC, now it is around 12~15degC. I guess this has helped me somewhat so I await next summer with interest (by the way, my altitude is 700 meters ASL)

With these needle settings, it is necessary to raise the idle trim several clicks to start her up, and then bring it down to normal after starting. But, otherwise, no problems.

Now, I know I can at least trust the engine so I am making a bit of progress on fine tuning.

The biggest test I give this engine is to land, let it idle about 10 to 15 seconds and then bang the throttle up to full. Right now, it is picking up instantly, but like I said, with the idle needle out any more, it will just bog and die in transition.

Even with these settings now basically working, I still have to nurse her through the transition on the first take-off, but after that, pick-up is nearly perfect. I am assuming that this is because the tank has not got up to full pressure on the first lift-off.

And just to re-iterate a point made by petec above - I have found the idle needle to be extremely sensitive to change. I am barely moving it by the width of a screwdriver blade and seeing differences in mixture.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hope it helps!!