Logo 6003D Build Thread

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

I was impressed with the tolerances again. :happyd The main-shaft fits in the bearing perfect, even the one-way was machined absolutely flawless. (Don't forget to grease the one-way bearing) It puts the quality of my old Raptor E620 down pretty bad.

Anyways, The boom slid in nice and firm. After I got the belt over the pulley and pulled back on the boom to set the belt tension I noticed I didn't need to pull back but about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. The boom has a nice deep depth in the frame. Simply wonderful...... I then installed the main gear and snap ring. If you don't have a snap ring tool it's going to be tough, so go buy one at your local auto parts store. I've seen people do it with screw drivers, ice picks and such but it's a lot of work. Snap rings aren't e-clips!

After I got finished assembling the main gear and setting the belt tension, I started looking at how tight that area is. I don't see how you can get enough slack to remove the belt. You may have to break down the heli by pulling the main gear off the shaft then remove the belt from the pulley. I don't see it slipping over the main gear. It looks like you may have to keep those snap ring pliers in your tool box at all times if you want to remove the boom. If you do own snap ring pliers and a couple of allens then it will be easy to remove the main gear, boom and rotor head. The heli is quite modular in design for travel and shouldn't take you more than a few minutes to stuff it in a box. Very cool!:)

It's starting to look like a heli!! :woot

[jamesotron99]

Looks awesome Jeremy. Keep it up.

[Klinger]

Great work lith, my 600 looks like its at the same stage of building. Couple of questions
How many wrap around tail pushrod guides did you get in the kit. The picture on the box looks like it has 2 but the manual only shows one as what i have?
Also where the boom exits the main bofy it looks like there's supposed to be some kind of split clamp there as per the pitcure but the exploded view and my kit dosent seem to have anything?

[Funky]

Very nice Jeremy :thumbup:

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Great work lith, my 600 looks like its at the same stage of building. Couple of questions
How many wrap around tail pushrod guides did you get in the kit. The picture on the box looks like it has 2 but the manual only shows one as what i have?

Yes. I only have one in the kit. The rod is very thick and rigid and feel that one is spenty..... It may not even need that.

Also where the boom exits the main bofy it looks like there's supposed to be some kind of split clamp there as per the pitcure but the exploded view and my kit dosent seem to have anything?

Those are for the 500 series to take up some slack in the main body. It has a small diameter boom.

The 6003D uses a 25mm diameter boom and needs spacers see attached picture. I don't think the 600DX needs anything.

[ozace]

:thumbup:Come on. I want to hear how good these things go.:wink:

No, really , seriously just a little pressure. I cant get to mine yet (others to finish) but i'd love to read how good it goes:hug:. So far the thread has nice detail and great pics. :kiss

[Klinger]

Yep thanks, i have those smaller spacers in there so i'm guessing the frame will clamp down hard on the boom when i tighten it, of to do it now.
cheers

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Ran into a few minor kinks..... see pics.

EDIT*** Flybar pic added.

[buster1]

Regarding the bolt not being long enough - check out this thread - I believe you may have the mixing arm backwards - not sure on the 6003D, but that was the case with the 5003D,

http://www.helifreaks.com/showthread.php?t=45267

Don't quote me, but worth looking into too - from the pics., it looks like you have it backwards, but I might be wrong,

Thanks for the build thread,
Jeff

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

:smokin: Ok got the airframe all together!!! Ran into a few kinks I posted just above but over all it was a real nice easy build. The plans don't hold your hand like other companies. Some previous heli building experience came in handy. If you can download the pdf file of the manual it will be most helpful.

A few random thoughts. The plastic this heli is made of is VERY hard. Even the ball links are hard plastic. The links thread together sooooo easy. It has a funnel shape at the opening and makes threading your links a real pleasure. You know how the first few threads suck to get started on most builds? Well not on this one.

The blade grips are made out of this bad ass plastic material and look tougher than anything else out there in the world of plastic helis. Metal I'm sure would be tougher but not by much. I still can't get over the plastic being so hard and molded so well. I'm really impressed.

The flybar is a very thick gage of steal. Much thicker than the Raptor flybar.

The blade grips went together so nice. You will need two 4mm allens. The grips have thrust bearings so remember to get the races in the correct order. Larger ID (inside diameter) goes towards the head, the smaller ID race goes towards the grip.

The flybar system is a little under par and little finicky to assemble, but still looks very functional. It almost seams to be an after thought in the design. V-bar baby!!!! That's what's on Mikado's mind and I'm sure yours too.

The rubber battery hold downs are cool.... You may need to cut away a little exess molding flashing where they go with a sharp hobby knife. Takes about 4 minutes. Do this so they won't get get cut on the sharp edges.

I'm still looking for the nylon landing gear bolts (M3x10) If you know where I can get some hit me up.

So far I'm VERY happy I got this kit and sold the Raptor E620..... (I don't think their will be any contest:)) We will see for sure when I get it in the air in 2 weeks. Waiting on a motor, pinion & main blades.

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Regarding the bolt not being long enough - check out this thread - I believe you may have the mixing arm backwards - not sure on the 6003D, but that was the case with the 5003D,

http://www.helifreaks.com/showthread.php?t=45267

Don't quote me, but worth looking into too - from the pics., it looks like you have it backwards, but I might be wrong,

Thanks for the build thread,
Jeff

Thanks Jeff.... I'm looking into it now....... Shawn help!

[ozace]

Very nicely done.
Re your pics above (pic 3 washout binding) , i had the same on my 5003d and fixed it the way you did. I had no other issues. I expect my 600 will be easier (Vbar) and your pictorial was nice to see.

Thanks

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Very nicely done.
Re your pics above (pic 3 washout binding) , i had the same on my 5003d and fixed it the way you did. I had no other issues. I expect my 600 will be easier (Vbar) and your pictorial was nice to see.

Thanks

It's a new heli and is going to have a few kinks. So far nothing serious. I'm just so very happy:happyd:cheers

[buster1]

Yeah, I agree - I just finished the 5003D and looking forward to the 6003D - I like the low parts count - its truly the easiest helicopter I have ever built - but beyond the the great design features - its so much lighter then the competition - this was the other major reason I just shifted over to Mikado from another brand. And I really like the modular frame and servo mounts built in - thats cool!!

Down the road - I would like to try the V-bar - looks great.

Again, the build thread is very useful,
Jeff

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

V-Bar.....:drool:

[Klinger]

V-Bar.....:drool:

My V-bar model dosent have some of those problems but yes the elevator swash link does have a fairly short thread into the swahplate. I found some discrepancy's in the manual too, mainly suggested the wrong lenghts of screws.
How did you do the canopy supports as this was barely mentioned in the manual. I ended up with 2 of the 10mm and 1 of the 4 mm spacers on the top holes through the 30mm screw and just a 4mm spacer on the bottom 8 mm screw. That seems to work ok but you do need to shorten the bottom caps as stated in the manual or they get squashed a bit.
Otherwise i didnt have any drama with the V-bar setup. Just need to get my electronics installed now.

[Mercuriell]

Just gotta love that smell of electric flight :!:

:rollingIs that the lipos catching fire or the ESC smoking !!!!

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

My V-bar model dosent have some of those problems but yes the elevator swash link does have a fairly short thread into the swahplate. I found some discrepancy's in the manual too, mainly suggested the wrong lenghts of screws.

I had very few screw length problems like maybe one or two.

How did you do the canopy supports as this was barely mentioned in the manual. I ended up with 2 of the 10mm and 1 of the 4 mm spacers on the top holes through the 30mm screw and just a 4mm spacer on the bottom 8 mm screw. That seems to work ok but you do need to shorten the bottom caps as stated in the manual or they get squashed a bit.
Otherwise i didnt have any drama with the V-bar setup. Just need to get my electronics installed now.

Your right the manual says little to basically nothing on this. I used the 8mm screw and 4mm spacer on the bottem of each side, I still need to cut the cap ends shorter. I didn't know what the hell to do with the 30mm screw and 10mm spacers and other caps.

That's it I don't have a V-bar to have any drama with. It's the standard flybar system that needs a couple of fine tweaks. Everything on this kit is amazingly top notch in quality and design until you get to the flybar system. The standard flybar system looks like it will work fine, you can just tell their wasn't a lot of thought put into it like the rest of the heli. Small quible that doesn't really matter much when a V-bar is heigh on my list of got have items.

Speaking of flybars and such.... Did your flybar have deep scratches in the center where the cage and see-saw attach? Mine did and I figured it was so the flybar doesn't slide back and forth in the cage..... like it's that way to provide extra grip.

[Klinger]

I had very few screw length problems like maybe one or two.

Speaking of flybars and such.... Did your flybar have deep scratches in the center where the cage and see-saw attach? Mine did and I figured it was so the flybar doesn't slide back and forth in the cage..... like it's that way to provide extra grip.
I didn't know what the hell to do with the 30mm screw and 10mm spacers and other caps.



No, my 14 dosent have any scratches in the flybar and with the LLS i wouldnt think it was required.

There are also 2 holes in the front of the body above the two where you mounted the first set of canopy supports. If you use the remaining spacers and 30mm screws it does provided addittional support for the canopy.

:rollingIs that the lipos catching fire or the ESC smoking !!!!

No mate, thats the smell of $100 notes catching fire

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Hummmm..... well you can't see them once assembled. Strange.

LLS?

[Klinger]

Hummmm..... well you can't see them once assembled. Strange.

LLS?

LLS - Long Lever System was an upgrade for the L14's a while back. It used different spacers and ball bolts providing 4 locking points for the flybay. Just looked at the manual an noticed that the 600 DX and 3D dont have the same setup as the L14's do.

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

The pics I took earlier where very blurry do to a crapy cheap camara. Well my sister came to visit so we used her rig.

EDIT*** I need to make a correction. Refuring to the second picture the bolt that's supplied with the kit is a M3x35 I'm looking for a M3x38 or more. I think Dubro makes a M3x50 that has a 30mm shank. I'm going to buy a pack tomorrow at my LHS and cut off what i don't need.;)

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Random shots of the head

[NTM]

My flybar had the scratches as well. My kit is a flybar 600 3d that I bought the v-bar head for seperate.
The 4mm flybar upgrade for the logo 14 needed to have the flybar roughed up or the whole flybar could twist in the cage in flight. Just looks like they're doing this at the factory now, still seems a little half assed though. Shawn had a nice flybar cage made by custom heli parts, for the 4mm flybar,that provided a much more secure grip on the flybar.

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Not the best way to fix a problem but works I'm sure. I tightened the piss out of the see-saw bolts.