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ozace
10-22-2007, 05:37 AM
I just started my 6003d vbar build.
Couple of initial observations, the boom is "fat", that 25mm jobbie looks the business especially when side by side with a 5003d.
The CF tail gearbox is clever with the tail fin forming one half of the assembly, big downside is the risk of damage if the tailfin hits hard.
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-22-2007, 12:46 PM
You'll need a washer anyways behind the ball after you've installed the link to keep it from popping off, don't install only one washer in front of the ball..


Dan

Will do Dan...... and thank you! :noteworthy
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-22-2007, 09:20 PM
I had a difficult time finding the 20mm cyclic servo horns. Shawn informed me that Mikado makes them. Ordered mine today!

Mikado
#4021 (Futaba
#4022 (JR)
#4023 (Hitec)

You get 4 to a package.
th3tick
10-22-2007, 10:47 PM
This is probably a silly question, but I like the O-ring setup you have, OICU812. What sizes did you use for that, and what is the part number for the Mikado "regular" ones?

I do so hate fishing those through over the pack...

John
Mercuriell
10-23-2007, 05:45 PM
Credit for this find goes to seanq222

EDIT*** Per Daniel Jetschin...... the man that knows this heli very well, you will need a washer just under the bolt head also. This will keep the link from popping off. Thanks Dan :thumbup:

Would be interested to know where the diagram attached to this post came from as I can't find the illustration in my manual showing washer under rather than over ball. Bob's Logo 14 build video also shows the washer as recommended by Mikado over the ball to discourage the link popping off - as suggested a washer in both places would seem to be the ideal!
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-23-2007, 06:14 PM
Hi john

I photoshoped it to make a visual point. Yes I but washers on both sides. Seams like it should work fine this way. I used a rather large washer under the bolt head so I now know for a fact the link isn't coming off. I could slide the link over the supplied washer.... that came with my kit. ;)
seanq222
10-23-2007, 06:16 PM
Out of curiosity, any idea why this is the only ball with a washer on the outside to protect the link from popping off? Does this link perhaps have more tendency to pop off than other links?

I ended up opting for a washer on both sides as well... I figured the washer on the outside certainly could not hurt.. and the washer on the inside fixed the problem of the ball embedding in the plastic flybar cage (though this could just be that I tighten the bolt too much)
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-23-2007, 06:21 PM
It appears to me that the link in question comes up at a slight angle. So I guess it could have a higher posibility of poping off the ball doing crazy 3Dz. Just be sure to use a washer large enough the link can't come off during such fun.
jamesotron99
10-23-2007, 06:23 PM
just go v-bar and you won't have to worry about it :D
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-23-2007, 06:24 PM
just go v-bar and you won't have to worry about it :D

Buy me one and I will :lol:
seanq222
10-23-2007, 06:32 PM
just go v-bar and you won't have to worry about it :D
My second Logo will certainly be a vbar version :-)
Mercuriell
10-23-2007, 07:09 PM
My second Logo will certainly be a vbar version :-)

And that's the Voodoo - once you build one you wanna do another (bigger, better, faster ......) :wink: GUess I'll have to shift another TREX600 to make room if I want another L600 - only thing that scares me is the brittleness of the plastic - I'm sure a decent smack would be a terminal event - Bob's sad premature demise of his Logo 14 still haunts me :shock:

BTW I don't think Logo plastic and Loctite goes togerther at all well - I put the pushrod guide on to the boom and put some purple Loctite on the M2 bolt - 5 mins later the whole thing pings off - the plastic had disntegrated where some of the Loctite had gotten onto it !
BruceW
10-23-2007, 07:38 PM
Yep, I'm pricing out a Logo5003D with V-bar now to run on 6S. Even though the V-bar is expensive I look at it as saving on the cost of a heading hold gyro. :YeaBaby:
jamesotron99
10-23-2007, 07:42 PM
Yep, I'm pricing out a Logo5003D with V-bar now to run on 6S. Even though the V-bar is expensive I look at it as saving on the cost of a heading hold gyro. :YeaBaby:

LOL :D

Maybe you can put it on lay buy? :D
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-23-2007, 07:44 PM
Even though the V-bar is expensive I look at it as saving on the cost of a heading hold gyro. :YeaBaby:

Thats why I'm running a 401 for now. Saving up for the V-bar.
ozace
10-23-2007, 07:48 PM
I just wish more people would go vbar. The technology is causing me headaches to understand and the more poeple who use it the more help i will get.

So GO VBAR !
th3tick
10-23-2007, 07:52 PM
Yep, I'm pricing out a Logo5003D with V-bar now to run on 6S. Even though the V-bar is expensive I look at it as saving on the cost of a heading hold gyro. :YeaBaby:

Whatever it takes to get you there ;). Just don't forget you still need the servo just the same.

Love. It. All my other helis look like somebody left a junkyard up in their head.

Initial setup bent my brain slightly, but it is really worthwhile IMHO.

John
BruceW
10-23-2007, 08:19 PM
Whatever it takes to get you there ;). Just don't forget you still need the servo just the same.

John

That's not what I tell my financial adviser. :wink:
th3tick
10-23-2007, 09:52 PM
That's not what I tell my financial adviser. :wink:

More fodder for your adviser:

So, in reality, you're spending $700 - $380 (because you know you'd have to have a GY611 for such a bird) or $320 and getting three gyros for less than the price of two. Now that's a deal!

And heck, since there are less parts in the head, it must be cheaper too!

John
BruceW
10-23-2007, 10:20 PM
Exactly!
Flybar-less
10-24-2007, 11:46 AM
BTW I don't think Logo plastic and Loctite goes togerther at all well - I put the pushrod guide on to the boom and put some purple Loctite on the M2 bolt - 5 mins later the whole thing pings off - the plastic had disntegrated where some of the Loctite had gotten onto it !

What is the recommended thread locker for plastic? Is PolyZap OK?
OICU812
10-24-2007, 12:21 PM
best thing for safety maeasure when dealing with boilts, screws into plastic is a small bit of CA. Loctitie is a BIG nono to use, it can eat and disform plastic.
big-al
10-24-2007, 10:24 PM
Thanks for the info Steve. I will go tomorrow and get some nylon screws from my LHS.

here are the ones I'm using: www.fortunemodelproducts.com

I've had two bad crashes with my trex 600e and so far the gear and main frames have faired well. I use them on the canopy posts and the landing gear.

see here: http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=412718&postcount=27

hijacked thread now released...
Flybar-less
10-25-2007, 06:37 PM
The manual says:
If you are installing Futaba servos, add the
distance plate for the two aileron servos
I had to use spacers on my trex with these servos. What is the best way to mount 8717s in the Logo?


The top of the elevator servo is very close to the bottom of the L aileron servo. Also it mounts on its top wich has the web brace. Should it be shimmed or cut?


Also, how about mounting without rubber grommets?
Flybar-less
10-25-2007, 07:58 PM
The 4134 counterbearing comes with a short shaft that is captured between the pinion and counerbearing, allowing mounting on shafts no longer then the pinion.

The shaft on the Neu 1912H/1Y is long enough (36mm needs to be approx. 30mm) to eliminate this stub shaft.

The 1912H/1Y also has 4mm mounting holes reqiring the counterbearing holder mounting holes to be drilled to 4mm, then requiring two 4mm x 35 bolts. The metal motor plate is machined to accept the 4mm bolts.