PDA

View Full Version : Logo 6003D Build Thread

Pages : 1 2 3 4 5 [6] 7 8 9 10
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-25-2007, 08:44 PM
The 4134 counterbearing comes with a short shaft that is captured between the pinion and counerbearing, allowing mounting on shafts no longer then the pinion.

The shaft on the Neu 1912H/1Y is long enough (36mm needs to be approx. 30mm) to eliminate this stub shaft.

The 1912H/1Y also has 4mm mounting holes reqiring the counterbearing holder mounting holes to be drilled to 4mm, then requiring two 4mm x 35 bolts. The metal motor plate is machined to accept the 4mm bolts.

So the NEU 1912H/1Y is basically a bolt on item with very little to modify.... very nice.:YeaBaby:
What kind of headspeed are you getting with that motor and 14 pinion?
OICU812
10-25-2007, 09:25 PM
The 4134 counterbearing comes with a short shaft that is captured between the pinion and counerbearing, allowing mounting on shafts no longer then the pinion.

The shaft on the Neu 1912H/1Y is long enough (36mm needs to be approx. 30mm) to eliminate this stub shaft.

The 1912H/1Y also has 4mm mounting holes reqiring the counterbearing holder mounting holes to be drilled to 4mm, then requiring two 4mm x 35 bolts. The metal motor plate is machined to accept the 4mm bolts.


FWIW,,,,, I really doubt you will even need the counterbearing for this motor, reason being the NEU motor has a very hard shaft and is an ORK not an outrunner. The counterbearing is more of a critical item for motors with softer shafts and motors that have a large mass spinning can, ie Zpower and Actros. Honestly if I try the 1912 out, I will not be using the counterbearing, I don't think I will need it.
Flybar-less
10-25-2007, 11:47 PM
Shawn, I've got one so I'll give it a try.

Jeremy, still building.
OICU812
10-25-2007, 11:55 PM
:wink:Right on John, look forward to hearing your results for performance, headpeed and wihat kind of amps & MAH you pull with that motor. From my experience in the past the 1912 can really haul ass with the right gearing. On my Logo 14s I couldn't keep the main gear in tact, but with the new HB gear I don't think this will be an issue at all. Hijack over, good luck.
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-26-2007, 12:08 AM
This is how I feel about picking a motor.

Tango 45-07:arggg:
NEU 1912H/1Y:arggg:
Actro 24-4:arggg:
Plettenberg Heli Expert:arggg:

I'm more of a sport flyer than a 3D guy. But like to put the hurt on it after a few cold ones.:guzzle
ozace
10-26-2007, 12:17 AM
Just get a few to try :wink:
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-26-2007, 12:19 AM
That's a very naughty picture
BruceW
10-26-2007, 12:25 AM
I'm more of a sport flyer than a 3D guy. But like to put the hurt on it after a few cold ones.:guzzle

After a few cold ones I would definitely put the hurt on it where it ends up in the hospital.
Mercuriell
10-26-2007, 12:27 AM
This is how I feel about picking a motor.

Tango 45-07:arggg:
NEU 1912H/1Y:arggg:
Actro 24-4:arggg:
Plettenberg Heli Expert:arggg:

I'm more of a sport flyer than a 3D guy. But like to put the hurt on it after a few cold ones.:guzzle

More naughty pics - just picked up the Tango 43-07 and it ooozes quality ... thought I might try it on 30S :wink:
ozace
10-26-2007, 12:29 AM
Sorry Jeremy , what about this one
Mercuriell
10-26-2007, 12:29 AM
Just get a few to try :wink:

Eenie, meenie, miney, mo .... Oh which motor shall go to the Logo ,,,,,

Do spill the beans Adam !!!
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-26-2007, 12:32 AM
I'm thinking about starting off with the Tango 07 then move to a NEU 1912 when I get used to the heli and get my game together.
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-26-2007, 12:38 AM
:drool:Sorry Jeremy , what about this one
ozace
10-26-2007, 12:40 AM
I just maidened the 5003d with the Z-30-800kv motor:thumbup: and so far it feels about right for me. The 600Vbar is starting with the 1912H as the 1915 is too much motor for my needs, desires or SKILLS:o and will end up in one of the Jokers.

In the back of my mind i keep thinking that CY flew in the F3C worlds in Poland with a 1912H in his Vib 90,:smokin: if thats what suits a world class pilot with a 700mm blades machine then it will more than do me for ever and one of the locals (Klinger) has a 1915 in his 600 vbar that has pulled 3.8kv:YeaBaby:
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-26-2007, 12:50 AM
In the back of my mind i keep thinking that CY flew in the F3C worlds in Poland with a 1912H in his Vib 90,:smokin: if thats what suits a world class pilot with a 700mm blades

:shock: Damn... I didn't know it made that much power.
Flybar-less
10-26-2007, 12:11 PM
Jeremy,
I have an extra 1915/1Y
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-26-2007, 12:13 PM
Sending PM;)
th3tick
10-26-2007, 02:48 PM
And if that doesn't work out, you have a second spare, please put me second in line for the 1915/1Y ;)

John
OICU812
10-26-2007, 02:57 PM
FWIW I know for fact that the 1915-1Y will require a esc beefier than the 55-10-32, such as PJ or the 85HV which may not be really reliable. Something to think about is all.
LITHIUMSTATIC
10-26-2007, 06:30 PM
Out of my list the Tango is the only one I can get my hands on......

Tango 45-07
NEU 1912H/1Y
Actro 24-4
Plettenberg Heli Expert
Flybar-less
10-26-2007, 09:37 PM
The main build is over all the sub assemblies are complete, but I am waiting on a few items to finish. One of the blade grips is defective, the outside bearing bore causes tight knotchy bearing syndrome. The main gear is a little out of round with slight lash to no lash. Overall it is a fairly straight forward build.

Next is radio and V-Bar install. I am awaiting the Mikado servo arms. Still looking for advice on installing 8717s.

I have no idea what to expect from the setup.
OICU812
10-27-2007, 04:18 AM
John, Best to do is simply put in the 8717 and a horn of any sort and look at the angle to the swash ball, that will tell you right away if you need to space them or not. I will be using the 8717 as well, but only got my kit today and will not be able to start till next week so you can tell me to! :D lol......:P

BTW Jeremy, the Actro 24-3 is a nice range as well, and likely is more power than 24-4 on 10S. I am seriously considering running a 24-3 myself....
ozace
10-27-2007, 04:48 AM
RE JR servo install, i have used JR's in both my logos and they fit in fine without the spacers. I did however use the rubber grommets and brass ferrules (something i dont normally do with E helicopters).

I have only one concern with the servo install (for Vbar) and that is the use of the 16mm hole spacing,it puts the rear servo(elevator) at an angle. Using the 20mm in the standard head has all swash links running straight up and down but the shorter arms for Vbar leaves that servo offset. Time wil tell if its a problem or if the software needs tweeking.
Mercuriell
10-27-2007, 07:42 AM
The main build is over all the sub assemblies are complete, but I am waiting on a few items to finish. One of the blade grips is defective, the outside bearing bore causes tight knotchy bearing syndrome. The main gear is a little out of round with slight lash to no lash. Overall it is a fairly straight forward build.

Next is radio and V-Bar install. I am awaiting the Mikado servo arms. Still looking for advice on installing 8717s.

I have no idea what to expect from the setup.

Mine came out tail heavy so suggest you install the gear as far forward as possible - I had to relocate my radio lipo to just behind the front gear struts and adjust the 10S stick about 1.5cm forward of the rear of the battery tray
Flybar-less
10-27-2007, 07:50 AM
I found a little time to install the radio and VBar unit. I am going to the field today to fly, but will take the 600 along and laptop. There is a guy that has few older logos, who may know a little about it. Maybe he has the grip I need too. Once the head is together I'll be able to check linkage alignment.

BTW, the counterbearing assembly was no problem. I had to buy some 4mm x 35 bolts and shorten the motor shaft to about 30mm. The counterbearing mounting holes drill easy, from 3mm to 4mm.