First auto(s) and some Q`s

[Y@nkee]

So , was out flying some today and finally dared to hit that #¤"&# hold switch :YeaBaby:.
I thought it would be a bit harder than autos on the Phoenix sim, but hehe, i dont know why i didnt do this before, it actually wasnt hard at all.
Hit hold and went down to about -2 or -3 pitch and just let it float forward /down,added a little more negative at the flare and and after the flare leveld it and used + pitch to make a soft landing, man this was fun :).
Needed a coffe/smoke brake after the first one and then did 1 more flight with 3 nice autos.:YeaBaby:
Then to the Q:
When the heli is trimmed for hover and i do fff it tends to want to go to the right,
i know about the phasing ring, but i have tried different settings with no luck.
with the phasing set after the instruction found at Gohbee pageshttp://www.gohbee.com/Merchant2/docs/instructions/doc08.pdf it flips/rolls and loops like bleah, croocked as hell.
With phasing set to senter it flips/rolls and loops better, but still want to go to the right in fff, kind off annoying:mad:.
Also got a friend that have the same problem on his chopper(same heli as mine).
I have ordered the on edge dampeners from gohbee wondering if that will do anything for this prob (90 durometer).

Any good ideas?

[flyinfool]

Congratulations on your first autos.
They can be a lot of fun.

Every brand of heli that I have ever owned has wanted to roll right in FFF.
I always trim for forward flight and live with the trim being off in a hover. I very rarely hover anymore.:roll:

[Y@nkee]

Thanks for the input flyinfool.

I suspected that it had to do with more lift on the advancing blade than the retarding blade related to flight direction, but wouldnt this if trimmed for fff make it be out of trim in bff? and make flips even harder to do straight?
Hehe its obvious that i got a lot of training ahead to get this right:fly

[flyinfool]

The best thing is to trim for neutral in the new maneuver that you are working on. Yes it will be out of trim everywhere else.
Once you get the maneuver down then you can work on learning to make the little adjustments to keep it straight.
There is no one trim setting that works for everything.
Depending on your radio you can set up conditions with different trim settings for certain groups of maneuvers.

Eventually you will find a good compromise trim setting and just fly through the maneuvers with out even realizing that you are compensating with the sticks. Kind of like you do not change the trim to compensate for a cross wind when going left to right and then need a different trim to compensate for right to left, your fingers just do it automatically.

[Y@nkee]

So in other words, to get the phase correct, i need to trim it for hover and adjust the phasing until it do stationary flips and rolls pretty straight,(depending on me beeing able to put in pure cyclic commands on elevator/aileron ofc).
Then if i want it to track in FFF trim it for that ,and learn to put in corrections in other manuvers.
To bad that my sim tracks straight all the time, it would be easyer to get this in with a sim flying like the real thing.
My radio is a JR9xII and it needs to be trimmed in every flight mode , so i can set up with different trims.

Thanks again flyinfool

[flyinfool]

I think you pretty much have it now.

I always trim for whatever new thing I am working on and once I get semi proficient at the new thing, then I put the trims back to my "normal" setting to finish learning the move while making the required small corrections.

[Y@nkee]

Btw, i got the dampeners from gohbee this monday, and omg what a diff.
Before i could grip the bladeholders and bend them up/down as easy as nothing.
Now its really stiff.
But ofc its windy and raining outside so i havent got to fly them yet.
Kind off impressed by the deliverytime from usa--->norway. 6 days.It even got delivered on my door.Hehe i could get used to this.
It sometimes take more time to get a package delivered from norwegian shops.And then i need to go to the post office to get it.

[flyinfool]

The On-Edge dampers make a big difference in the air.
I like um.
And their not real expensive.:)

[Y@nkee]

1 q about the dampers flyinfool.
Do you use shims between the grips and the dampers?
On my plastic head there where 2 ,1 thick big one and one tiny thinn one.
With the old damper and metallhead i used only the thinn one, and it was almost to thight, but worked ok.
With the on-edge dampers i still use the thinn one, but it feels even thighter than it did with the old dampers, but with no shims at all, the damper will rub against the bearing, not just the inner ring as it does with a shim in place.
Its like this on yours?

[flyinfool]

Yes you must have in at least the thin shim so that the damper does not rub on the outer bearing race.
I have only the thin shim on mine.

[Y@nkee]

So, i got to fly it with the new dampers in, and it changed how it flys totally.
Everything i tried it did better,but i do have some tail issues.
It wont hold in flips and rolls,holds ok in collective pumps as long as i am not inverted. This tried at 2 dif headspeeds,1850 and 2000 rpm
The tailblades i got atm is some 87mm sab carbon blades.
I did try a set of ms composite 97mm blades and it was MUCH better, but they were so long that i feared that i would hit the ground with them on landing.
Guess what, first landing = no more MS-composite blades:thumbdown:.
I also noticed that it bogged more in climbouts with the Ms blades on the tail.
But it seemed to hold in flips and things like that.
My Gyro is a 401/9254 with about 80% gain and limit at about 100, should be ok but isnt.
My friend got the same sab blades on the tail as me and it holds just as bad as mine.
Have som plasticfantastic :D blades on order(KB neon) 85mm ,but even as good as people say they are, i dont think it will be better.
Any good ideas besides longer tail blades?
Also got some 92mm sabs on order + a set of radix tailblades (95mm i think)

Then another thing.
I have another flyingbuddie that flies a t-rex 600E and i know he have about 6,5 degrees cyclic on aile/elev.(set it up myself)
And OMG how that heli rolls at 2000rpm.
I got 7 degrees, 20g paddles (sab) and 2000rpm and i got half the rollrate he got, how do get the Tz to roll like that?

Well, on the bright side, i was out flying my Trex 450 today and that little thing flies just awsome(for its size), even finshed the last flight with my first auto with it :smokin:

[flyinfool]

Even though you are at about 100% on the travel, make sure that you are getting travel that is from stop to stop in both directions.

You can get one of the 30-90 tail fins from Gohbee, this will help keep the tail blades out of the grass.

You can also use the Gohbee Tail Speedup gear to give you about 10% more tail rpm, this helps a bunch.
If you are going to run the speedup gear I highly recommend the Gohbee HD tail grips with thrust bearings.

85mm is just to small for a 50, they are OK for a 30 engine spinning 550 blades
.
On my 50 I am running the Gohbee carbon tail blades, the Gohbee HD hub and grips with thrust bearings, and the Gohbee tail speedup gear. My tail will hold solid in a terminal tail slide till it hits the ground,
I am using the 401 with a HiTec HS6965 servo.

The TZ50 will never be as crisp or quick as the Trex 600 simply due to being a pound and a half (0.7kg)heavier. But with the right setup and choice of blades and paddles it can get close.
I am now running my 50 at 2100 headspeed and I like it, I won't be going back to 2000 anytime soon.

[Y@nkee]

Ok.
So i try ramp it up to 2100 :D
I got the quick uk tail on it and it have trustbearings and so on, think i got a good enough tail for it.
Ofc to get the speedupgear i got to order overseas again, but i will do that if needed.
Got the new tailblades for it today so i have some testing to do :D
Also was out flying it today and i checked the limit on gyro and found that i could raise that a bit, about 105-110 now.
But that alone wasnt enough to get the tail to hold good enough.
I also think that some of my prob is my bad collective management, if i tried to be gentle on collective , it did hold better, but not quite like i want it to.
I start to understand what masters Alan S and other good pilots out there are.

Thanks again Flyinfool

[flyinfool]

Yes the tail gear does help and your QUK tail will be fine.
The taller tail fin is also great at keeping the blades out of the dirt.
The fin and speedup gear will also work on a Raptor, so maybe you can get some more people together to justify an order from Ghobee.

There are some true masters out there that make it look so easy.
Those masters always look like there heli has more power than anyone else's.
I had one of those masters fly my Stinger 50 once and it did things that I would have never thought possible.
Now I know just how bad my flying sucks.:roll:

[Y@nkee]

Ok, looks like i am going to order the speedupgear but when ordering i would like to get the metalswash for it also,but it does not look like its the same as the plastic one i got.
Mine looks like the stinger 90 plastic swash.
Look at the pics.
My swash looks like the one to the left, also looks as the same as the S90 plastic one.
The S50 is the one in the middle.
The last one is the metal upgrade for both S50 and S90.

On the S50 and the S50/S90 metalswash 2 of the balls on the inner ring isnt as long as the 2 other.
Wouldnt this affect the cyclic? Meaning i would get less cyclic throws.
I would guess the 2 short ones is used for the washout arms?

Will i get even slower rollrate by using this swashplate?

[flyinfool]

:oops: Oops Your not supposed to look at the pics that close.
The older swashes had the 2 different length inner balls. all of the newer ones have all 4 long ball links.
I am not certain if that is true for the TZ or if it a Gohbee only thing.
I know that there are some differences between the Gohbee and the TZ line.
Just never bothered to make a new picture for the web site.
The 50 and 90 use the same swash.
As far as ratios are concerned the metal and plastic are the same.
The only difference between the metal and plastic is the one outer part, they both use the same inner plate, bearings, balls, etc.

[Y@nkee]

Well, thats good news for me then, the metalswash have the same lenght on all 4 balls on the inner-ring, just as my plastic one :thumbup:.

But the sad thing is that this stopped me from ordering it when i ordered the on-edge dampers :(

Btw the only diff i can see between Gohbee and Tz ,is that Gohbee got more upgradeparts for their helis.
Like: Metalswash,speedupgear for tail, on-edge dampers,tailgrips with 3 bearings and so on.
These are all parts that i cant get from Tz or atleast my lhs or any other RC-shops i know of in norway dont got them.

Thanks again Flyinfool

[flyinfool]

Yes you are correct.
All of th Gohbee upgrade parts can only be purchased thru a Gohbee dealer.
These parts are manufactured by Gohbee in the USA and are not made by TZ.
I am not sure what the legalities are, but you could have your LHS contact Gohbee to see if there is a way for them to carry these parts.

[WJackson]

Get Gohbees 13g CF paddles. your cyclic will then be where you want it. SICK!!!!