Autorotation hub (one way) gone (?)

[ferincr]

Hi,
I've been having issues with the one way (autorotation) hub on my R60. It got jammed once, I took it out cleaned put it on again and today jammed again I took it out on the field put some tri flow on it flew again and when I landed it was jammed one more time.
I think it's time to toss it and buy a new one. Since this one is not that old it makes me think that may be I want to buy something better than the standard but I'm not sure if I want to spend the extra $60 on a QuickUk one.
What do you think it would be better? Buy a QuickUk one or buy few of the standard TT for the same money?
Are the QUK much better than the stock? If yes why?
Do they tend to go that quick? (about 6 gallons), (ok and few crashes:o) or I just got a lemon:(.
Thanks for suggestions,

[vandelescrow]

I don't have a 60 size, just a 50, but mechanicly they are simular (that is the reason I'm sticking with Raptor for my next (90 size) heli.

Last time I tore my heli down I soaked the one way in rubbing alcohol and wiped it off with, I can't remember but I do know you dont want to use paper towels due to lint getting in the bearing. I think I found out how to clean it from RaptorTechique.com. Once clean I used the grease ThunderTiger sells for those bearings.

After reading your post, you said (and a few crashes). My first thought with that statement is, did the main mast ever get bent in the area between the main gear and upper bearing block? How are your upper and lower bearings, have you ever had to replace those due to a crash?

Just some thoughts, hope it helps

[ferincr]

vandelescrow,
I ordered the stock TT part (after speaking with Chris at Heliproz) but to answer your questions...
I bent the main mast (a couple of them), but above the frame, the bearing blocks (upper and lower) are ok never replaced (yet).
I did wash the one way in alcohol before, brushed inside and let it dry, but never used grease only light bearing oil and Tri flow type oil.
I did a nice cleaning of it (again) to give it a one more go until the new one arrives.
I'll look again in Raptortechnique but I didn't find anything before.
Thanks

[Mike SVOR]

I used axle bearing grease in mine.

[vandelescrow]

I'm looking at raptortechnique.com and I guess that is not where I found how to clean the hub as I mentioned above. But, here is what he says about the hub sticking.

This is a quote from http://www.raptortechnique.com/ts-mechanical.htm

One of the causes is having tightened the bottom main shaft bolt so tight that it warps the auto hub sleeve. Another is having too much up/down play between the c-clips. If you hold the sleeve and can move the main gear up/down 1mm or more then you will need to place a shim between the auto hub and the top c-clip. If you cannot find a thin shim (I bought some from ronlund.com a long time ago) then cut one out of an aluminum coke can. This up/down play was the cause on my R50v2. Everything had been fine for many hundreds of flights then it quickly got to the point that every flight the hub would be stuck. Since installing a shim between the hub and the top c-clip it has not locked up at all.
Another cause is dirt. Take a c-clip off and remove the sleeve. Run a paper towel in the auto hub and twist it around. Remove it and wipe the sleeve. Put a couple of drops of oil such as Tri-Flow on the bearings. Slide the sleeve in place and rotate it a few turns. Take the sleeve back out then run the paper towel through it to clean it again. Put one drop of oil back on the bearings, clean the sleeve, and put everything back together.

[ferincr]

I used axle bearing grease in mine.
I read somewhere that grease is bad for this:dontknow
Some people say yes grease others say no grease:dontknow:dontknow

vandelescrow,
Good reading, the lower jesus bolt is not over tight but I'll check tomorrow about the play on the sleeve (I hope that applies to the R60 too, since it has only one C-clip).
At least I have something else to keep myself busy tomorrow.
Thanks,