Cp pro repairs

[LockMD]

I am not a builder by any means, but I have a little wobble it still flies but I want to check/replace the spindle (between the blade grips) and the main gear/shaft. I started to tear it down but it looks to me like the flybay has to be removed???

If so, I'm just affraid I would not get it back to exact. There's got to be some intructions somewhere, I've checked the site and others and the net in general. Can anybody point me to the right place.

Thanks in advance.

[futura]

I don't believe the flybar has to be remove to replace either the spendle or the main shaft. If you do need to replace the flybar, its a simple matter of loosening the callers on the flybar carrier and sliding the flybar out (after uncrewing at least one paddle of course). replacement is a matter of getting the flybar centered as best by eye and then measuring to find the longest side, moving the flybar over half the difference and remeasuring until it is exactly the same. reinstall the removed paddle and make the distance between the paddle and flybar carrier the same on both sides. tighten everything down and your good to go.

[borocouncilman]

Flybar doesn't have to be removed. Spindle/feathering shaft is pretty easy to replace. Of course, you'll want to always check your main shaft -- it bends way easily.

[carlo_the_wonder_frog]

For sure, the main shaft is made out of lead I swear. it bends on every single little crash. Designed that way i am sure so E-Flite can make mad money selling replacement mainshaft/gear assemblies.

[LockMD]

Okay after some trial and errors I got it apart, replace the main gear/shaft and spindle.

PROBLEM

its spins frantically to the left! I played with the sub trim the gain and the g90 headlng lock gyro, adjusted the swash plate nothing seems to have any affect still spins to left. Can you guys point me in the right direction of what to test/look for? Is my G90 gyro bad all of a sudden?

Help!!

[LockMD]

After further trouble shooting, I believe my tail motor is not putting out enough power when it starts spinning the tail motor does kick on trying to prevent but I dont think its spinning the rotor fast enough. At almost half stick throttle if I apply full left rudder the tail rotor is still spinning trying to control the spin.

I decided to replace and after doing some reading, seems most agree this is the best to upgrade too: GW/EDP-50H ?

and judging from what I read, I assume in replacing you leave all wires as is and just melt the current solder and re-solder the new one?

[flingwing403]

you are very correct in the fact that your tail motor is likely at the end of its uselfull life.. they dont last very long at all and the first sign of them starting to go is when your heli was running great then all of a sudden the tail wont hold. god knows i have replaced many of them.

as for replacing them again you are correct, just heat up the existing connection and seperate the wire running through the tailboom from the motor, remove motor via 2 tiny screws, place new motor and re -solder the connection...also doing the connection prior to installing motor may help BE CAREFULL take good notice of which pole the wires are connected to so you dont reverse the polarity and have your motor spinning the wrong way. mind you if this happens you can also just unplug it and turn the plug around at the 4-1.

as for upgrades theree are many and severral swear by the direct drive, mind you that does not take any work away from one small motor.

i have done another upgrade, cost is about 25$ it turns your tail into a twin motor set up so each motor works half as much, here is a link scroll about half way down the page to see it
http://helihobby.com/html/eflight_blade_cp.html

have not replaced a motor in a very long time since this upgrade...mind you i dont fly the cp much since getting into larger helis

hope this helps..and if you didnt know about it already heres a great link for anything to do with fixing the cp

http://www.bladecprepair.com/

[thaiboxer]

I have the belt tail on mine and it is nice. I am still getting it set-up correctly and it does cost about $100 but it is flying real nice.

I also have tried the direct drive and prefered the dual tail set-up for better weight distribution. I run a common sense battery and it weighs a bit more than the e-flights so it worked out good.

[LockMD]

Hey thanks for the replies!

Glad to see you confirm my suspicions - as you can probably tell I dont build these things hehe but if I'd had then I wouldnt have all these questions, guess I dont have the paitience to build from scratch though.

oh and the repair link you posted is awesome, thank you!

since I dont really 'know' what I am doing and they do have the instructions for the direct drive tail I am going to go that way for now plus I was thinking the twin set-up could rise weight issues too but as I get into this hobby more and learn more if and when the direct drive goes I will research the twin set up more at that time.

Thanks again for taking time to help a noob.

[borocouncilman]

If you get frustrated, there's always that magic $65-$79 part that can fix almost everything wrong with the Blade CP motor-driven tail rotor setup.
http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=3136

You can read more here:
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=45643

[LockMD]

Well I got impatient waiting for the new DD motor so I splurged 10 bucks on a new stock motor. YUP that was the problem, I can fly again now, well I'm back in the air (still hovering) but even that is more exciting than the CX.

I'll probably just keep this one in until it goes out and have the DD motor ready and waiting.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

[MarriedwithHelis]

Holy crap! I guess I never realized that the $70.00 part upgrade should be my next...I hate the CP tail and have looked at a belt driven tail setup. I just didn't want to spend $200 additional on the CP. This looks promising. Thanks for the info.