View Full Version : Q to those with the TT metal grips for the Mini T..
OICU812
10-28-2007, 04:53 AM
For those who have bought and are running the TT metal grips on your Mini Titan.
Are you cutting down the ball link stem to acheive proper geometry to the top mixer or what? I have read several threads about people cutting down the stock plastic grips but wonder if the TT metal ones are different or if people are cutting them down as well and "re tapping" them etc??? Thx..
Luciora
10-28-2007, 05:24 AM
I've got the TT metal ones fitted on mine, made no adjustments to them though. Fit is fine as is.
If I recall correctly the mod was done to attempt a fix in the tracking problems with the old plastic ones. The replacement plastic ones resolved this problem in the same way the metal ones do - they are much firmer and thus removes the flexing that used to happen.
OICU812
10-28-2007, 05:27 AM
Ok fair enough, how is the geometry between the main blade grip ball and the mixer, is it a perfect or near perfect straight shot?
EricW
10-28-2007, 06:21 AM
No,
For some reason the grip ball joint is almost lined-up with the center of the main-hub and the mixer ball-joint is on the inside of the mixer-arm.
This results in a angled linkage rod (falls to the left on both sides).
With the modded flexing plastic grip the shot became more straight of course, the ball-joint moves out of the main-hub center.
On my kasama grips i can choose three holes on my grip-arms going left to right from main-hub center.
So i assume this is done to in/decrease total pitch range (please correct me if i'm wrong).
Middle hole gives me +10 -10º
Eric
uragano47812
10-28-2007, 09:40 AM
No,
For some reason the grip ball joint is almost lined-up with the center of the main-hub and the mixer ball-joint is on the inside of the mixer-arm.
This results in a angled linkage rod (falls to the left on both sides).
Eric
Yes it seems that they are made for flybarless system ;)
Well i have upgraded my MT to all CNC head original TT parts and it fly very very well and it is a lot more precise. It was precise also before but now it is like a bigger heli, and this solve tracking problem and gummy pitch sensation.
I suggest to upgrade.
LITHIUMSTATIC
11-01-2007, 10:51 PM
I was running T-rex 450 SE V2 upper mixxing arms and went to the red TT ones. The TT ones suck bad. I have this strange notch in both arms at about 50% stick. I'm going to toss them for some Microheli ones that have double ball bearings. Oh! and Kasama grips are on the list to get soon too! So far I'm VERY disapointed in the TT metal stuff. Between me and a flying friend I've seen a lot of it and it's not very good compared to Microheli stuff.
sabre2
11-04-2007, 03:44 PM
Ok fair enough, how is the geometry between the main blade grip ball and the mixer, is it a perfect or near perfect straight shot?
The angle struck by the control rod as a result of the length of the blade grip control horn is *exactly* as it is intended to be by the designers. They've been through three revisions of the blade grips that I have seen, and the one constant feature has been the length of that horn. As I understand it, it puts the horn in line with the centre of the feathering spindle, where tilting of the rotor disk allowed by the damping rubbers won't cause unwanted cyclic inputs.
Regards
John
ghtracey
11-04-2007, 07:57 PM
The angle struck by the control rod as a result of the length of the blade grip control horn is *exactly* as it is intended to be by the designers. They've been through three revisions of the blade grips that I have seen, and the one constant feature has been the length of that horn. As I understand it, it puts the horn in line with the centre of the feathering spindle, where tilting of the rotor disk allowed by the damping rubbers won't cause unwanted cyclic inputs.
I've always wondered why if it was so bad they would have engineered it that way. Looking at the geometry, what you say makes sense.
sabre2
11-05-2007, 03:14 PM
... what you say makes sense.
Oh, you had to go and spoil it...
John
ghtracey
11-05-2007, 03:27 PM
:P Sorry.
OICU812
11-06-2007, 11:06 PM
The angle struck by the control rod as a result of the length of the blade grip control horn is *exactly* as it is intended to be by the designers. They've been through three revisions of the blade grips that I have seen, and the one constant feature has been the length of that horn. As I understand it, it puts the horn in line with the centre of the feathering spindle, where tilting of the rotor disk allowed by the damping rubbers won't cause unwanted cyclic inputs.
Regards
John
Ok well there is the engineers theory, however I have heard of a few pilot that have had their links pop off that ball link on the grip, which ended up in a nasty mess. That is abit bothersome to me.....:roll:
LITHIUMSTATIC
11-06-2007, 11:26 PM
I've had mine pop off only 1 time and that was after it tried to dig it's own grave. If you use the TT metal grips use T-rex450 balls and links...... I use the t-rex 450 balls and links on the entire head, may be why I never have problems with links coming off.
ghtracey
11-07-2007, 01:16 AM
The Align balls are 4mm? Are the threads the same as the linkage rods that come with the e325?
Bunter
11-17-2007, 04:51 AM
I was running T-rex 450 SE V2 upper mixxing arms and went to the red TT ones. The TT ones suck bad. I have this strange notch in both arms at about 50% stick. I'm going to toss them for some Microheli ones that have double ball bearings. Oh! and Kasama grips are on the list to get soon too! So far I'm VERY disapointed in the TT metal stuff. Between me and a flying friend I've seen a lot of it and it's not very good compared to Microheli stuff.
Do you have the stock plastic Mini T flybar cage by any chance? On mine, I think the screw holding the metal upper mixing arms to the head can clash with the plastic flybar cage.
Bill
ww_liam
11-17-2007, 11:03 AM
im using the tt metal grip without cutting them shorter. just re adjust the linkage to get the pitch range u want. and im running +/- 13 pitch without binding.
the only problem i see is the red damper is kind of small (loose) for the metal hub which makes the blade grip moves. a lot of free play, wobble.
anybody have any issue on this?
pls advice
comeflywithme
11-21-2007, 06:12 AM
Try putting an extra washer between the dampner and the grips. I had exactly the same problem and I heard somewhere that this is TT's suggestion to fix the problem - although ideally we shouldnt have to go around looking for spare washers to make an upgrade work.
So far I have used an extra spare set of the washers used between the grips and the hub (a set of these should be inside your old plastic grips). One word of warning though- these are probably a bit too thick and make the head increadibly stiff!. I'll be looking for something a bit thinner but for the time being this does the trick and makes the heli very responsive.
I have the same problem with damper too loose in the TT metal rotor hub