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View Full Version : Logo 5003D - which electronics, blades and so on?..


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Eyon
11-11-2007, 02:58 PM
ordinary will be fine. the EVO30 4500 is THE ultimate pack for this heli, and the rex 600, ugh!

Mathias
11-12-2007, 11:18 AM
I going to do 3D. I am planning to run high headspeed. Will throttle curve at 100% flat with 16T pinion and the Z-Power 1150kv be to much?

Eyon
11-12-2007, 11:28 AM
too much!

Aim for a 80% governed setting of 2300 and you will love it!

Mathias
11-12-2007, 11:39 AM
If am right you don't have a throttle curve when using governor? But what should I set it on. You use a flat curve when running governor mode, right?

So 2300 will work for hard 3D? I think it sounds to little for 3D, but you have probably right...

Eyon
11-12-2007, 02:29 PM
3D isnt all about head speed. 2300 is more than enough, its possible to 3D on 1800, but of course, the higher the head speed, the more responsive and quicker on the pitch

If you are using the Jazz, set the governor as a flat line curve at 80% in idle 2. Then get the right pinion to make sure the head speed sits, at 0 degrees, at 2300.

then it will work peerrrrfect!

Mathias
11-12-2007, 03:55 PM
With the 0,7Mod, 14T will give 2300RPM... I will use the same headspeed in both idle 1 and 2.

Does anyone now if EspritModel have the newest kit of the L500? Are the new 5003D kit's with glassfiber canopy?

OICU812
11-12-2007, 04:16 PM
the new 5003D kits are not coming out with a FG canopy included, where did you hear this? Also as mentioned you run your governor at 80% tops on flat curve in governor mode. Governor mode is controlled by % same as you would a flat fixed throttle curve. It sounds as you are very new to electrics, is there anyone with good experience at your local club to better assist you?

14tooth is wrong seletcion for the 1150kv motor, if you are sport to medium 3D fliyer than run a 15 tooth and have your idle 1 at 75% and idel 2 at 85%, if you feel you truly are hardcore 3D flier than 16 tooth and make your idel 1 65% flat, and your idle 2 75-90% flat, as mentioned that will yield you 2300rpm. One thing to note running on a 16 tooth with the 1150 ZPower is going to give you only 4:30 flight time on a 5000mah pack so you know.... Thinking about running 100% is wrong way to thinik about things, I know many did and do this on t-rex 600s with their crap Align escs and that setup but that is wrong way to gear electrics, you always want headroom and leverage to get most out of system.

BTW I only run my HS around 2200 now, it is more than enough for 3D, remember this is a 500-550mm disc, not a t-rex 450 you do not need ball blazing headspeed to pop it around.

BruceW
11-12-2007, 04:56 PM
Shawn, what kind of time are you getting at 2200 with a 5000mAh pack on the 550mm blades?

I'm hoping for around 5:00-5:30 with a 2200-2300 HS and figure I better get an efficient motor to achieve that time. It would also be nice to tool around at 1800-1900 HS for about 7:00 if possible.

OICU812
11-12-2007, 08:04 PM
I land at 4:50 with 560mains with the Hacker A40-8-8 on 13 tooth mod.7. Anymore and I would be breaking the 80% rule. So much of these questions truly depend on your flying style, how much pitch range and cyclic you use etc. Collective management as we all know is absolute king.

Hulley
11-12-2007, 09:19 PM
A buddy of mine just bought a 500 3d v-bar and his has a plastic canopy. I saw it sunday.

Mathias
11-13-2007, 12:09 PM
the new 5003D kits are not coming out with a FG canopy included, where did you hear this?

It sounds as you are very new to electrics, is there anyone with good experience at your local club to better assist you?

14tooth is wrong seletcion for the 1150kv motor, if you are sport to medium 3D fliyer than run a 15 tooth and have your idle 1 at 75% and idel 2 at 85%, if you feel you truly are hardcore 3D flier than 16 tooth and make your idel 1 65% flat, and your idle 2 75-90% flat, as mentioned that will yield you 2300rpm. One thing to note running on a 16 tooth with the 1150 ZPower is going to give you only 4:30 flight time on a 5000mah pack so you know....I read quick through a thread were they said that FG canopy was included. I see now that it isn't... Read a little to quick. :D

Yes, I am new to this big electric helis. In electric helis, I am only used to small copters like T-Rex 450 etc... So external BEC and so on are new to me... ;) No one in my local club are used to big electric helis - just fuel... :(

I think I'll go for a 16T and a 15T. I am not hardcore 3D flier, but I use to do TicToc's and usual 3D tricks etc... Hopefully my skills will improve. ;) I love responsive helis - thats why I want to have high headspeed.

BTW, which tailblades are the best for the L500? Will K&B be a good choice?

Edit: Is there any upgrades which are worth to buy for the L5003D?

OICU812
11-13-2007, 04:25 PM
There are no upgrades at this point for the Logo 5003D and it does not need them. In regards to the tr blades, I like the Radix 92mm or the MAH 90mm. I did try the K&B but for my style I found them abit to flexible with the 6100 Logitech gyro, it did not like them.

Eyon
11-13-2007, 04:41 PM
i really liked my K&Bs. the standards are awesome too.

Upgrades? nothing! i do have the carbon tail gearbox, but thats just ease of doing the belt, but its not needed.

As i said, aim for 2300 and it will be awesomely responsive. this is 80% governed.

you will love it!

doeni
11-13-2007, 05:09 PM
Do 95mm Tailblades fit? Cause the New white T-Rex 600N tailblades seem quite good, would be nice to use them. I would be using 553mm Blades, do 95mm Tailblades fit then?

greetings Daniel

OICU812
11-13-2007, 10:32 PM
I would not run anymore than 92mm, 95s may touch.

th3tick
11-13-2007, 11:32 PM
The one upgrade I wanted was the CF tail fin, due to my tendency to set them down a bit tail-low. However, after I bought it, I realized it's a bit shorter than the plastic one. :confused:

OICU812
11-14-2007, 12:13 AM
The one upgrade I wanted was the CF tail fin, due to my tendency to set them down a bit tail-low. However, after I bought it, I realized it's a bit shorter than the plastic one. :confused:


Really? LOL That sucks man, I would have thought it to be the same at least,, weird..

th3tick
11-14-2007, 01:07 AM
Well, I was getting all ready to take a picture of it next to the plastic one, but I noticed that it says "LOGO 10" on the package.

On p.21 of the instructions, it lists #2780 as the right part for a Logo 500 3D, which it what it says on the package. It's not the same shape as the one shown in the picture on the instructions - it has no rear hole for the bolt to go through - CF is in the way, but not in the same way it would be for the one depicted.

Now I'm really confused...

BruceW
11-15-2007, 02:13 AM
I talked to a few heli shops, did some researching on the web and changed my mind (and still up in the air) on some of the initial components. Hoping to get some opinions from you guys about these changes.

1. Cyclic servo: Futaba S9452 instead of JR8717. It seems the JR8717 will be overkill on a Logo5003D and use unnecessary current - even with no load. Even though the 8717s are slightly faster than the S9452 (0.07 vs 0.1 @ 6V), the S9452 should have enough speed and torque for all practical purposes (196 oz/in. vs 120 oz/in.). Using it for cyclic would also save 33g overall. Even though I was told the 8717 is overkill, its sometimes just nice to go for the consistency of a brand since I'll be running JR8900G on the tail so I'm not completely sold on switching to Futaba. As Shawn mentioned in another thread, there may be some quality issues with the 8717.

2. ESC: Jazz 55-10-32 instead of Jazz 80-6-18. It seems the Jazz ESC are underrated and can actually handle larger surges and fast spikes than stated in the spec. Again, the Jazz 80 maybe be overkill on the Logo 5003D and I see a lot of you are already using the Jazz 55-10-32 on it. Also, I'm planning on using a separate BEC so the one on the Jazz will be unused. The weight seems the same between them. Also I can go 8S later if I choose.

3. Motor: Hacker A40-10L 8pole instead of the A40-8L 8pole. It seems there was a lot of testing going on at IRCHA (by Mikado and reps) with different motors and the A40-10L 8pole was performing better on 6S. I heard this from several sources. The other reason I'm staying with the Hacker instead of Z-power or others is because of availability and price. At 1100KV, I'll probably start with a 16 or 17T on mod 0.7. Also the 1100KV should allow an easy path to 8S in the future.

4. Battery: It looks like the EVOlite 6S 5350mAh is becoming the new performer. Even though its rated at 17/28C (90A cont./ 150A burst) many pilots (various named pros) mentioned that it has the performance and you get a bit more flight time. Again, I plan on probably buying a couple different batteries but I'll start with this. Also it weighs 700g compared to 800g for the EVO25 5000mAh and 700g for the EVO30 4500mAh.

5. BEC: This is still an unknown but its narrowed down to either the Western Robotics 5A ( 6V ), Kool Flight UBEC 3A/5A(peak) (6V), or Quark-Pro BEC 5A.

Anything glaringly wrong with these thoughts?

Tomorrow I will probably purchase the 5003D, pinion, and motor. The CFO wants me to string out the other purchases over several credit card cycles.:wink:

OICU812
11-15-2007, 03:23 AM
Ok the A40-8-8 is far better for tourque and 3D than the 10 for starters, I confirmed his hands on, I have both. Next the BEC,,, Western Robitics is a far better BEC over the Koolflight one. The rest looks good. :wink:

BruceW
11-15-2007, 03:49 AM
Ok the A40-8-8 is far better for tourque and 3D than the 10 for starters, I confirmed his hands on, I have both.

Then what about efficiency, heating, wear and tear on the A40-10-8? I had two different heli shops mention this one was better from testing at IRCHA and they carried both motors. Is there some reason they are trying to sell this motor (both same price)? I'm aiming to run 2150-2350HS.

OICU812
11-15-2007, 04:19 AM
Well each to their own I guess.... for ballz out 3D the 8-8 is stronger I will bet my 6003D Vbar heli on it, how's is that for assurance! :wink:

BruceW
11-15-2007, 04:21 AM
Alrighty then, that sounds like a fairly good recommendation then.

Mathias
11-17-2007, 06:44 AM
Has someone tried the new brushless servos from Futaba? Sounds like an alternative to cyclic servos...

Which quality issues with the 8717? What are the best cyclic servos for the Logo 500 now? Should I go for the Jazz 55-10-32 instead for the 80-6-18? Want the best...

BTW, I have ordered a Logo 5003D now. ;)

BruceW
11-17-2007, 12:36 PM
zguy has the new brushless servos (BLS451) on his Logo 500 and there is a review by Bert Kammerer (http://www.bertrc.com/reviews/BLS451.php). I am now thinking about going to them instead of the 9452. It seems the 8717 might be overkill on the Logo but the BLS451 has a torque rating between the two. There is also a BLS251 designed for the tail ( 0.06 sec / 47 oz-in @ 4.8V ) but the torque rating s higher on the 8900G.

My Logo should be here on Monday but I'll string out the purchases of the servos, ESC, etc over the next month or two.