Logo 5003D - which electronics, blades and so on?..

[Mathias]

Hi!

Which electronics to buy to the L5003D?

Here is my list so far:

FlightPower Flight Power EVO 25C 3700 6S1P Battery.

DS760 AVCS Gyro, LGT600T or GY611?

Step down: K10333A 5.1V Align Step-Down Voltage Regulator.

Receiver: SPMAR6200 Spektrum AR6200 DSM2 Microlite 6Channel Rx, Ultralite Spectrum.

Servos: Futaba S9452 Servo Digital High-Speed/Torque (Replaced 9451)x3. Not sure. Other suggestions?

ESC: Kontronik Jazz 80-6-18 ESC - New Low Price!

Tailblades: CYE Radix 92mm CF Tail Blades or K&B Dream Design Tailblades?

BEC: Western Robotics Hercules 5amp 5 AMP Battery Eliminator Circuit HC.

Tailservo: ?

Mainblades: ?

Motor: The new rebranded Z-Power 1150kv motor or NEU Motor 1910H / 1Y? Other suggestions?

Thanks for answering. ;)

[Eyon]

My Personal Recommendations


FlightPower Flight Power EVO 25C 5000 6S1P Battery.

JR 770T w/ 8900G

Step down: K10333A 5.1V Align Step-Down Voltage Regulator. ????????

Receiver: Spektrum AR7100 DSM2

Servos: JR 8715/8717/8915m (all the same)

ESC: Kontronik Jazz 80-6-18 ESC

Tailblades: V-Tails, NHP Tails or K&B Stiffies

BEC: Duralite Reg + FlightPower EVORX 1320

Tailservo: JR 8900G

Mainblades: SAB 550mm (320 i belive, new ones!)

Motor: Mikado Z-Power 1150kV


Hope this helps

[BruceW]

That's starting to look like my list of items when I get my Logo 5003D. Here's my choices so far:

Gyro: Spartan DS760
Cyclic Servos (x3): JR DS8717
Tail Servo: JR DS8900G
Motor: Tango 45-10 (1070KV) or Hacker A40-8L 8pole (1300KV)
Pinion: 17-18T Mod 0.7 (1070KV) or 15T Mod 0.7 (1300KV) depending on motor.
ESC: Kontronik Jazz 80-6-18
BEC: Unknown, maybe use the one of the Jazz unless that's bad.
Main Blades: SAB 550mm or Rotortech 550mm
Tail Blades: K&B 84mm (orange or black)
Battery: FP EVO25 6S 5000mAh
RX: JR 790

From what I've been reading in these threads, a 3700mAh 6S is going to be a short flight but maybe a little longer if you stay with 500mm blades. Why not go with a 4350mAh or 5000?

I was going to look at the Neu 1910/1Y (1050KV) but they seem too hard to find. I'm leaning towards a higher KV motor (1200+) so I can spin it within a more optimal/efficient range on a smaller pinion with less torque.

With the JR servos, you can run them at 6+V to get the extra power and speed.

I'm in the same situation as you about my final choices so thanks for starting this thread.

[BruceW]

Ian, I notice you suggested running a BEC off a separate battery. Are there any issues with attaching it to the main battery? Or is it to get the extra voltage on the JR servos?

How many flights can you get from a 1320mAh before a recharge?

[Eyon]

i just don't really like BECs, a personal preference, if the battery becomes de-soldered, i can auto it down, not with a BEC though!

1320, i get about 4-5 flights then re-charge

Ian

[Mathias]

Servos: JR 8715/8717/8915m (all the same)

Tailservo: JR 8900G

Mainblades: SAB 550mm (320 i belive, new ones!)Wouldn't the metal gears on the JR8717 be slopy?

Where can I get the SAB 550mm?

WHAT IS THE BEST GYRO FOR THE L5003D? Honestly! There are so many good gyro's on the market so I am not sure which to choose.

[Eyon]

i run a 611 in mine, its average. hold is awesome, it can do some wicked fast pirouettes, but its pirouette consistency is awful! So on that basis, i wouldn't recommend it. The JR 770T is, from what i have heard, awesome, so i would go for that if i didn't already waste my money on the 611. Also the 8900G is the best tail servo i have tried.

The 8717 servo gears are pretty good i have found, not too sloppy either after 50 flights and 3 crashes. they are so fast and torque-y, i wont run a heli without them now.

SAB 550, not sure where to get them in Norway, in the UK i got mine from Fast Lad Performance. i got a set weighing 105g, awesome!

[Raydee]

Ian after reading your post I think I may just sell my WB Hercules bec and go to a battery setup. I never thought about a battery problem and not having control of the heli before.

[murp]

That is the first I have heard of someone concerned that their battery may become de-soldered in flight. I personally think that is nothing to worry about - my solder joints could support the weight of the heli :)

The BEC does have the benefit of being the lighter option and not requiring you to remember to charge both batteries (which is more likely going to cause a crash IMO)

Cheers, just my 2 cents.

[Mathias]

Willl I need a Kontronik programming card to program the ESC?

http://www.readyheli.com/Kontronik_ProgCard_ESC_Programming_Card_p/progcard.htm

Which pinion for the Z-Motor?

Will this BEC work? I would like to run everything on 6V: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/2_389_558/products_id/12567

[Mercuriell]

Willl I need a Kontronik programming card to program the ESC?

http://www.readyheli.com/Kontronik_ProgCard_ESC_Programming_Card_p/progcard.htm

Which pinion for the Z-Motor?

Will this BEC work? I would like to run everything on 6V: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/2_389_558/products_id/12567

No you don't need a programming card for the Jazz - just put the jumper on the pins - get it into programm mode and then program it for heli mode (4) and lipo mode (9) and voila done !!

Are you referring to the Z30-1110 for the motor - if you are planning 6S and are using the 0.7 mod gear then Mikado recommend the 13t pinion or the 17t if you are going mod .5

The Duralite systems are very good but are Li-Ion rather than LiPo so if you buy their BEC you're best advised to buy their batteries and chargers as well - otherwise you could use the ALign 6A Regulator (http://www.wattsuprc.com.au/product_detail.asp?pid=K10382A)which works very well and is cheap - depending on which servo you use you may need a 5.1V drop down lead if you are using a Futaba 9254/5/6 servo

[Mathias]

But if I am not going to run an own RX-batteri? The Align BEC has input voltage at 7,4V.

I would like to run the JR8717 servos at 6V to get the best performance... Which BEC?

I am a little (very) confused about BEC/Amp/Volt and so on... I would like if any could explain about where the BEC is plugged in and so on...

[Mathias]

Anyone?

[Klinger]

The only reason i have a prog-card for is to change spool-up time from default 12 secs to 6 secs. This really helps when wanting to abort an auto, other than that i feel the prog-card is pretty useless.

[Klinger]

Also i wouldnt put an align bec in my logo, (personal choice maybe) i use a duralite which is have very clean power and rated very well. I run this of a seperate 2 cell lipo and it simply plugs into a spare Rx channel to power it or the batt connector of the Rx.

[Mathias]

Any suggestions of a BEC which will give 6V? What about this BEC?: http://www.readyheli.com/Western_Robotics_Hercules_5amp_5_AMP_Battery_Elimi _p/wrl-hbechv.htm

Eyon, I belive that these are the blades you mean?: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/12270

[Mercuriell]

The terminology can be a bit confusing:

The radio gear - gyro and servos need nominal 4.8V - 6.0V of power - most radio gear these days can run on 6V but a few Futaba tail servos are known to have reduced life span if run on 6V - some of the newer JR servos will run on higher voltages eg the 8V from a fresh charged 2S lipo.

The radio gear voltage can come from one or more of the following sources:

1) BEC - Battery eliminating circuit
2) Regulator
3) Battery pack

A BEC is usually part of the speed controller and provides voltage for the radio via the throttle lead - this is commonly the case for smaller electric models where the weight penalty of an extra battery and regulator is prohibitive. A few of the larger models Electric Speed Controllers (ESC) have them but it is not always obvious which do and you need to carefully study the product literature eg the Castle Creations 80 ESC has a BEC but it's high voltage version the HV 85 does not. Many of the Kontronic Jazz ESC have ESC but the 55-10-32 does not. There is a danger that if you have BEC in your ESC you are not aware of your ESC and radio can arm if you have the main battery connected. Generally there are concerns about whether the BEC in an ESC can provide reliable current for the larger aircraft with digital servos - a momentary 'brown-out' (reduction in voltage) can provoke a prolonged reset from the radio (esp 2.4GHz SST) with disatrous consequences.

2) A regulator is a separate bit of hardware that converts a narrow range of voltage input into a defined volatge output. These are commonly used with a separate battery pack, usually a 2S lipo and thus convert ~8V in to ~5V out. Some of them like the Fromeco Arizona (http://www.fromeco.org/aarizona%20reg.htm)or the Western Robotics Hercules (http://http://www.deeteeenterprises.com/NS.WR.Ext.BEC.php) have a switchable output for 5.1 or 6V. Others like the Duralite (http://www.duralitebatteries.com/flight/index.php)form part of a customised system of charger, battery, regulator and voltage checker. Align (http://www.rchover.com/esc_bec2) have mass produced regulators for their TREX helis in 3A, 6A varieties which are simple cheap and work well with a few caveats (use the 6A for 500+ size helis and make sure the wires are immobilised or secured q.v.). Regulators come in two types linear and switching - switching ones are thought to generate more Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) than linear but in practice all the above mentioned are quality products.
3) Lastly you can use a NiCd or MiMh cell pack to power your radio gear - these have the advantage of simplicity - just plug into the power socket of your Rx via a suitable switch but in general are heavier, take longer to charge and don't have the capacity of the lipos.

So what to do ? Do whatever you want there isn't one best way - I personally have successfully used the Align 6A regs with a 2300 mAh 2S lipo on my past 4 T600s and on my current Logo 600 but everone has their own point of view based on availabilty of parts, cost and personal/local experience of the product which is what makes this Forum so good !!

[Mathias]

Thanks! ;)

[Mathias]

What about the new JR8700G?: http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=9135

This blades must be awesome for the L500: http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=1872 What do you think?

[OICU812]

Those are the older style Vs, I would not buy those. Currently imho the best blades for the 500 out right now are the Rotortech 560mm.

[Mathias]

Wouldn't 560mm be to long for the L500? Any modifications needed to fit the blades? Will they work for hard 3D?

[th3tick]

Personally, I have this BEC:

http://www.readyheli.com/Western_Robotics_Hercules_5amp_5_AMP_Battery_Elimi _p/wrl-hbechc.htm

on my 500 and the T-Rex 600. It Just Works. I originally soldered the leads for it onto my ESC leads, then later built an in-between plug that is a Dean's male/female pair back to back with the leads for the BEC tapped into the middle. That way, I can change any other parts without disturbing the BEC.

The RT 560s work as-is, and well for everything.

John

[th3tick]

WHAT IS THE BEST GYRO FOR THE L5003D? Honestly! There are so many good gyro's on the market so I am not sure which to choose.

This one's easy: the one that comes with the V-Bar unit!

John

[Mercuriell]

As a long time Futaba person I would go for the JR 770 next time for size and reported performance

[BruceW]

Have you guys been following the recent tests of the Spartan DS760? It looks like a promising gyro that has the ability to run just about any servo due to selectable frame rates along with great holding power and consistent piro speeds. Its also the gyro being used/tested on the Trex500 right now.

Here is the Finless thread on it:
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=47240

So far the DS760 is my top choice and the JR770 is right there also. Previously the Logictech 6100 was top of my list but new gyros just keep coming out and claiming to be better.