Want To Buy A New "Dream" Fury Extreme, What Do I

[Jean-Marie]

Hi Guys!

I am new to this site, I have posted this on RunRyder but I was told alot of MA guys are here.

Ok, I am going to break down soon and finally get a real machine (I have had a Hirobo Shuttle now for going on something like 12 years). I am leaning toward a Fury Extreme with a .90 (I would love all that power) after only flying a tiny little .30 all these years.

I need help putting together a list of parts I may need to buy. Here is what I plan so far, what am I missing?

- Futaba 9C
- GV-1
- GY-601 w/ Servo
- 4 More High End Servos
- O.S. .91 C-Spec With Pump
- Fury Extreme Kit
- Nice Painted Canopy
- Header Tank w/ Mounting Bracket
- Tail Rotor Baldes
- Main Rotor Blades
- V-paddles
- MA120-95 (CNC MAINSHAFT/TAILROTOR BRG.BLK W/BRG)

Does the machine already come with the proper gearing for the O.S. .90 C-Spec w/ pump? Do I need to buy something special for placing the magnet for the GV-1? What is a "failsafe switch"? What is a "tail boom brace stiffener"? Anyone use a Glow plug extension on the Fury?

Thanks for the help and advise as I put my list together! Can't wait!

Jean-Marie Vaneskahian
jean@vaneskahian.com
http://www.vaneskahian.com

[Spitfire_mk5]

- i would asssume the gearing for the CspecPS is the same as for the regular CSpec (don't use either, sorry).
- V-paddles are probably not needed (the white MinAir ones that come in the kit are pretty good -- unless you just going for the look)
- you do not need a glow extention: you can get to the plug with a long glow ignitor between the frames easily.

also consider some good batteries -- running 5 digital servos and a governor will suck a pack dry pretty quick: duralite makes good Rx packs that you can get MANY MANY flights off of per charge.

- need a proflex startshaft to start a fury.

a tail brace stiffener is a little plate that goes between the tail braces and stops them form moving as much.

[Russ McC]

Hi Jean-Marie

1. Your hi end servos should be 9252s.

2. Recommend a Curtis MP2 exhaust for the OS C-Spec pump.

3. No V paddles, use the white paddles that come in the kit, these paddles are super good.

4. You need the Extreme kit that comes with 8.18 to1 gearing for your OS

5. You also need the special bottom plate that will accommodate the pump on the OS-PS engine.

6. The best Main blades I have used on this machine are SAB 710mm and I have done some testing to figure out the blade of choice. 105mm NHP for the tail.

7. You drill a hole in the fan to mount the magnet, nothing special needed.

8. I believe the Fail safe switch will fail in the on position so if it goes bad you won’t loose radio power.

9. Tail boom brace stiffener is a brace that goes between the boom braces to keep them from vibrating, this is also important if one of the bolts holding the boom braces breaks, the brace stiffener will hold the brace keeping it from going up through the blades. :)

[DavidH]

Jean Marie,

Futaba 9252's or 9151 will be nice servo's for the application
All the Fury Style kits now come with the bottom plate that will accept the OS 91 C Spec PS
Main Blades you will 700 to 720 mm main blades
Tail Blades 105 MM is what you will need
V paddles would be OK if that is what you prefer. The white plastic paddles that come with the kit will work well also.
120-95 is going to be included in Extreme kits that MA packs from now on. If the kit that you get does not have this, it is one of the kits before the change and MA will not include the part.

You would need to order the 8.18 ratio kit for the OS 91 CSpec PS is my suggestion.

As for as painted canopy, there is many fine painters that can supply you with a nice painted canopy for the Extreme. Wade McGee Trading Co. that advertises here is just one of them.

You will have to drill a hole ( dimple) in the fan to install the magnet for the GV1. Or you can get one of the optical sensors and use it.

You should not need a glow plug extension ( remote). The Fury engine faces rearward and the plug is easily accessible

The tail boom support bridge is a device that goes between the braces to keep them from buzzing in forward flight. 0852 is the MA part number

A fail safe switch is a switch that is incorporated into a volt regulator when a battery pack that is more than 4.8 volts is being used. The switch if it goes bad will not allow loss of power. The only way to tell the switch is bad if it happens is that you can't turn the power off to the receiver.
There is several different ones on the market. You can look at the Radio South or Duralite Plus website and see them.

I hope this helps you decide on your choices.

David

[Jean-Marie]

- Should I use the 9252's for all 4 channels (not tail control obviously)?

- So all the new Fury kits (including the Extreme) come with the bottom plate for the OS 91 C Spec PS?

- All the new Fury kits (including the Extreme) come with Part 120-95?

- Will it be ok to run all this with a HiMH 2700MaH battery or do I need to consider these new Duralite or Lithium Batteries with the regulator?

This is great information!! Thanks so very much!

Jean Marie,

Futaba 9252's or 9151 will be nice servo's for the application
All the Fury Style kits now come with the bottom plate that will accept the OS 91 C Spec PS
Main Blades you will 700 to 720 mm main blades
Tail Blades 105 MM is what you will need
V paddles would be OK if that is what you prefer. The white plastic paddles that come with the kit will work well also.
120-95 is going to be included in Extreme kits that MA packs from now on. If the kit that you get does not have this, it is one of the kits before the change and MA will not include the part.

You would need to order the 8.18 ratio kit for the OS 91 CSpec PS is my suggestion.

As for as painted canopy, there is many fine painters that can supply you with a nice painted canopy for the Extreme. Wade McGee Trading Co. that advertises here is just one of them.

You will have to drill a hole ( dimple) in the fan to install the magnet for the GV1. Or you can get one of the optical sensors and use it.

You should not need a glow plug extension ( remote). The Fury engine faces rearward and the plug is easily accessible

The tail boom support bridge is a device that goes between the braces to keep them from buzzing in forward flight. 0852 is the MA part number

A fail safe switch is a switch that is incorporated into a volt regulator when a battery pack that is more than 4.8 volts is being used. The switch if it goes bad will not allow loss of power. The only way to tell the switch is bad if it happens is that you can't turn the power off to the receiver.
There is several different ones on the market. You can look at the Radio South or Duralite Plus website and see them.

I hope this helps you decide on your choices.

David

[DavidH]

Should I use the 9252's for all 4 channels (not tail control obviously)?


Yes you can use 9252's on all 4 controls. I would suggest 9252's on the swash plate controls and you can use something like a 9202 on the throttle if you prefer

So all the new Fury kits (including the Extreme) come with the bottom plate for the OS 91 C Spec PS?


That is what I was told this morning by Tim Schoonard. That the Fury (all) have the bottom plate that will accept the OS 91 CSpec PS.



- Will it be ok to run all this with a HiMH 2700MaH battery or do I need to consider these new Duralite or Lithium Batteries with the regulator?


I had some problems using the 2700 mah nimh 4.8 volt packs with all digital servos. I would only get about 3 flights from a full charge , after the 3rd flight if I did a maneuver that required the servos to load, the receiver would go into battery failsafe mode. You may or may not have this problem with the 2700 mah 4.8 volt pack.
I would suggest to use at least a 6 volt pack and a voltage regulator that is set from 5.1 to 5.6 volts output. The digital servos do put a higher current demand on the battery.

All the new Fury kits (including the Extreme) come with Part 120-95?


Tim said all the future Extreme kits will include this part when they are packed at MA. If your ordering a kit now, it will be hard to say if this part is part of the current Extreme kits out there. So you might ask the dealer you order the kit from if they know if this part is included or not. There is not a problem with the 2 piece bearing block that is currently in the Extreme. Just with the 2 piece in there now, it was difficult to use the 15 tooth pinion without a modification to one of the bearing blocks. That is why the one piece was developed.

David

[Jean-Marie]

David thank you so very much! Thank you all for this great information!

[Jean-Marie]

New Updated Fury "Dream Machine" List (4/15/2004 - 1:21 PM CDT)

Fury Extreme "Dream" Machine
(OP = Really Optional)

- Futaba 9C
- GV-1
- GY-601 w/ Servo
- (4) Futaba 9252 Servos
- O.S. .91 C-Spec With Pump
- Curtis MP2 Pipe
- Fury Extreme Kit (With 8.18 to 1 Gearing)
- NHP 105mm Tail Rotor Blades
- SAB 710mm Main Rotor Blades

- OP - Nice Painted Canopy
- OP - Header Tank w/ Mounting Bracket
- OP - V-paddles
- OP - Tail Boom Brace Stiffener (Part Number 0852)
- OP - Heavy Duty Radio Switch
- OP - Lithium Batteries (Duralite, etc..)
- OP - Voltage Regulator For Higher Voltage Batteries (due to all digital servos)

Make Sure Kit Comes With
- MA 120-95 - CNC MAINSHAFT/TAILROTOR BRG.BLK W/BRG
- Bottom Plate for O.S. .90 Engine

(I have all the field equipment)

What am I missing?

Thanks,
Jean-Marie Vaneskahian

[DavidH]

Jean Marie,
That looks like a nice package you have listed. You should be happy with everything in the first list.
The option list looks nice also.

David

[~Jeremy~]

I am in the process of buying an extreme also, i have been told that the TJ pro is better than the Gv1, u might want to consider the TJ pro!

And i say go wit the duralites!! :D

Later

[WillJames]

2 Things I can add here.

If you sand the mold lines off teh MA white paddles and kindof round off all the really sharp edges they are less pitchy. (Shannon's Trick)

You will also need an extra long glow igniter to reach the plug easily. The Hangar 9 that is red works great.

Other than that sounds like you have a great setup so far.


As for the GV-1 on throttle.

The TJ may have some advantages when using a High Frame Rate Servo (Futaba 9254) and it also has addons like the AutoGlow that would eliminate the need for a glow igniter and also provide some extra glow power if the headspeed drops 100RPM. Check the Model Avionics Forum here and the Model Avionics website (banner on main index page) for specifics on how the TJ operates.

[Jean-Marie]

Festus1567 from Runryder said get the Fury Tempest 3D instead of the Fury Extreme, how much more is it than the Fury Extreme?

I see the Fury Extreme for $905, how much does the
Tempest cost? Is there any more or less items needed for the Fury Tempest 3D kit instead of the Fury Extreme?

Thanks
Jean-Marie

PS: From what I have read the Throttle Jockey Pro looks like the way to go.

[S.Peterson]

Jean-Marie

Don't forget to address your starting needs. All the Fury models (including the Tempest) are designed to use the M.A. flex start shaft. This means that the end of the clutch shaft used for starting is just a bare 6mm shaft which is hardened. The flex start shaft has a one way bearing which slips over the clutch shaft and drives it to start the engine. I don't know what you are using to start your shuttle, but if you don't want to use the flex shaft setup, you will have to get a starter adapter. I use a hex drive setup on my Temest FAI, to make it the same as all my other heli's, so I don't have to carry more than one start wand.

Stu

[Jean-Marie]

Thanks for the info. I use a Hex starter to start the shuttle. Why in the world would they just use a plain shaft? (Eliminate a source of vibration I guess) What a pain! So where to do get a plain start shaft to start the factory Tempest that way it comes from MA?

Jean-Marie

[Alfred]

Yes you buy the flexi start from MA.
I would serious;y consider a Dynatron Starter as this is a 90 engine and your average starter might not turn it over, especially when the engine is new.

[HeliDriver]

Go buy a $5.00 thunder Tiger Raptor Hex Coupler, it fits right on the Fury start shaft...

This way you can use any hex starter that has a one way bearing in the shaft.

[angelob]

Go buy a $5.00 thunder Tiger Raptor Hex Coupler, it fits right on the Fury start shaft...

Make sure its a V2 coupler, not a V1 (V2-6mm V1-5mm)

Angelo

[Jean-Marie]

I bet my Shuttle uses the smaller Hex Head for the starter.. Hell if I have to change it anyhow then I might as well just use the default MA Flex thing..

To get it straight, then there are three starting Standards:

- 5mm Hex
- 6mm Hex
- Straight Shaft (Fury)

Correct?

[S.Peterson]

You can't use the flex start system on a non hardened shaft, or one which has a flat spot, or scarring from a set screw. It will screw up the one way bearing in the start extension. If you want to use the flex start, you need something like this for your shuttle.

http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=PD1

If you want to use a hex start for your x-cell you need something like this:

http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=MA4686-3

As far as I know, there is no 5mm hex start wand, only 6mm. The shuttle may have a 5mm clutch shaft, but I am guessing the start coupler on it is for a 6mm hex starter wand.

The other thing to watch for if you use the hex start system, is that you need a one way bearing in your start wand. Some helis (raptor and some others) have a one way bearing built into the clutch shaft somewhere. Once the motor is started, the clutch shaft stops spinning. On other helis (x-cell, at least some hirobo) the clutch shaft spins whenever the motor is running. If there is no one way bearing in the clutch shaft, you need to have a start wand with one built in, or else the wand will get thrown out when the engine starts and smack into the canopy or the head. This may not have been a problem on a 30 size with a plastic canopy, but it would definatly suck on a 90 with a fiberglass canopy (with a nice expensive paint job).

The 6mm hex start is the system used by the vast majority of pilots, regardless of what system their heli came with. It works well, you can borrow someone elses starter if your battery is dead, and it is cheap.

Hope this helps

Stu

[Jean-Marie]

I do have the one way bearing on my starter wand. I guess it must be 6mm Hex. Since you said most everyone out there uses 6mm Hex, then you would suggest converting the Fury shaft to 6mm Hex rather than the shuttle's hex to a shaft right?

I have a gear reduced starter that starts the Shutte just fine. Maybe someone will let me try to start their 90 at Mayday to see if my starter will cut it.

Thanks... let me know if I have any info mistaken.

[MooneyDriver]

I few in gusty conditions yesterday and found the standard Miniature palddles to be more stable in hover and FFF. Just like the cheap plastic tail blades, the plastic paddles are the best. The heli flew at least 15mph faster and the roll rate was nearly double.

-Neil

[RotorX]

I believe that the MA flex start was designed for 60 size engines and as such you can go thru bearings, there are careful procedures to maintain the life of the flex starter - however i have just used a hex start with no problems - alot cheaper and alot more robust.................