Modifying the RealFlght 4 Controller Throttle Hold

[Nyther]

Well this has been bothering me for some time and my habit of the Throttle Hold being on the front instead of the top was becoming a bad habit with this controller. Why they changed the position of the throttle hold is beyond me. Today, I decided to change this. First, you need a desoldering iron, or a desoldering braid. Second, you of course need a soldering iron. I had to desolder the knob controller from its circuit board. The board is independent of the main board, so not a big deal. I did not take pics of the knob on the board in the controller, but when you open the controller, you will get the idea. First, remove the knob circuit from the controller to remove the wires. The knob circuit just slides up toward you. Mark the colors of the wires on the knob circuit board for reference. I used RD for red PL for purple, and BLK for black. Then desolder the 3 wires from the knob circuit board. Next, remove the retaining nut from the Throttle Hold switch and move the switch to the side. You need to desolder the knob assembly from the circuit board. Then, solder the three wires to the knob in the same order that was on the circuit board. The knob assembly fits perfectly in the switch housing. Make sure you orient the knob assembly as shown in my attached pics. Finally, put the throttle hold switch in position and tighten the retaining nut lightly, because the case may not close. Then once the back of the controller is in position, tighten the retaining nut on the throttle hold switch and screw the 4 screws on the back of the controller. You could use hot glue on the sides of the knob assembly for better retention, but mine fit pretty snug. I have attached pics to help illustrate the modification process.

[Fixation]

Thank you Nyther
I will be doing this to mine also.... hope it won't kill any warranties?????
But thank you once again. Every little info in this hobby helps and you gave more than a little.
Robert

[DeanK]

I wonder if using a crack because you don't feel like carrying around a dongle with notebook would be against Terms and Conditions of use, even though you have payed for the simulator.

[trexflyer02]

Thank you Nyther
I will be doing this to mine also.... hope it won't kill any warranties?????
But thank you once again. Every little info in this hobby helps and you gave more than a little.
Robert

As I understand, opening any part of the radio voids the warranty.

I wonder if using a crack because you don't feel like carrying around a dongle with notebook would be against Terms and Conditions of use, even though you have payed for the simulator.

Uh ...YES it would be against the Terms and Conditions. If you don't want to "carry around" the InterLink all the time, you could take the the electronics out of it and put it in a little box. Kind of stupid in my opinion, since with most normal RC radios connected to G3.5, sometimes you can't get all the channels to work. Plus, you're draining transmitter batteries.

[Nyther]

Yeah, opening and modifying the radio will void the warranty. I saved the parts so that if you had to send it in, just solder the knob assembly to the circuit board, and move the throttle hold back. Just like car enthusiasts upgrade there intake systems with aftermarket kits, you can swap back to the factory intake for warranty work;). Enjoy.

Ken

[Dr.Phil]

Thanks for this!
I just flew yesterday for the first time in about a month and I actually pushed the wrong switch in an auto because of G4.
Just did this mod and everything feels right :)

[bflores]

To modify or move the Realflight G4 USB Interlink Controller Throttle Hold:

The soldering method is the cleanest, however you can move the switches without soldering or unsoldering wires, in about 5 minutes or less.

1.) Remove the four screws from the back.
2.) Swap the Throttle Hold and Gain potentiometer per the below picture.
3.) Screw everything back in and you are set.