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OICU812
11-19-2007, 08:31 PM
Ok so there seems to be some confusion on how to program the Kontronik Jazz ESCs'. I can tell you in full confidence these are the easiest ESC to program bar none.

Here we go, as best as I can explain this. :lol:
**If this is your first time, take off main blades for safety and peice of mind**
1.) Ensure your transmitter is on, ensure you are in normal mode with a linear throttle curve 0-100.
2.) Now ensure your tx throttle stick is low, @ 0.
3.) If your receiver is powered by a seperate battery source please plug it in now.
4.) Now with the "black jumper" on your Jazz esc please plug in your Jazz esc and allow it to initiate, you will hear the indication beeps.
5.) Now you have heard the beeps, please pull the jumper off the Jazz esc pins, you will now hear it confirm this action by a series of quick beeps.
6.) Now to program to mode 1 which is factory default you will listen for the Jazz to ring out 1 beep, when you hear this one beep count put your throttle stick to full 100%, do not worry the heli will "NOT" spool up! Leave the stick at full till you hear confirmation beeps, then you will hear a single beep confirming mode 1, then pull off the power to ESC.
7.) You are now programmed to Mode 1 which is factory default base setting.
8.) Now you want to have your esc into "Heli Governor" mode, you are looking to program the Jazz ESC to "Mode 4".
9.) Put the "black jumper" back on the esc, and put your throttle stick on tx back to 0%
10.) Now plug your esc back in, wait for the conformation beeps once again.
11.) Pull off the black jumper, wait for (4) beeps now. Once four beeps put throttle stick to 100%, again do not panic no blades will turn etc, wait for the confirmation and the four single beeps then unplug the esc again.
12.) Return the throttle stick to 0% once again.
13.) Now you are programmed to Heli Mode Governor!
14.) Next step is to ensure that your motor is spinning correct direction.
15.) With blades off preferably for safety or on and standing ways away plug everything in, allow the confirmation beeps to take place and spool up heli.
16.) If heli is spinning correct way you are basically done with one small step left. Disconnect the ESC from lipo and put on blades if blades are on goto next step.
17.) If heli is going correct way mount your blades as mentioned and simply spool up in Idle 1 with a value for example of 70% flat throttle curve, allow the rotor disc to find a stabalized speed, once that is acheived you can now enjoy your jazz and it will have learned its timing for the motor you are using. If heli is spinning wrong way goto next step.
18.) Heli motor spinning wrong way? No problem, mode 7 is what you need to do! :D "OR" you can swap the wires around if that works for you, want to do it through programming in a simple step, read on, :).
19.) Again have black jumper on the pins, tx stick at zero and plug in the ESC.
20.) Confirmation beeps and then pull jumper, wait for (7) beeps then full throttle, again do not worry heli will not spool up. Confirmation beeps and seven single beeps then dis connect lipo from esc. Your motor direction is now reversed and you can go back to step 16.


Key points to know about Jazz after this is done.

1.) If you change your pinion size you should do a Mode 1, than Mode 4 etc to your heli again. By changing pinion you have changed how the motor will load and the Jazz esc may need to adjust to that change. Same goes for a big lipo or battery source change. Also in this regards if you change transmitters you should do this so the ESC can learn the full throttle path of your new transmitter and know 0% and 100% of your throttle points.

2.) Once all programming is done keep the black jumper in a secure location in case you need it again. They are easy to lose so keep them somewhere safe! :wink:

3.) Use flat throttle curves for idle 1 and 2 "DO NOT USE V CURVES", the Jazz governor is God of all ESCs' :)

4.) Your esc % "throttle" can be as low as 57% with no negative heat effects to the Jazz, it is not advised to run lower than this value however.

5.) Jazz escs love "low pole" count motors and with 100% certainty perform better with them ie: Actros, Orks, however they can and have worked with basically every motor on the market I have tried.

6.) There are even far more settings within the Jazz, read your manual if you wish to venture past these points, but these truly are all you need to do, :).

I hope this clears up any questions, any add in key points will be added in etc so this provides good instruction to those new to the Jazz escs.

I hope you find this helpfull, cheers. :hug:

th3tick
11-19-2007, 08:34 PM
Not trying to start dissent, but I read this previously:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5060655&postcount=18

This Kontronik Support person says you don't need to redo anything if you change stuff out for the Jazz, but you do need to for a Beat controller.

Confused...
John

OICU812
11-19-2007, 08:42 PM
Yea well I argued this with Haldor and Mike, I can assure you if you do not you will not the see the performance increases you may have wanted by a pinion / lipo change. Try it for yourself and you will see John, I confirmed this myself as well with the Jazz series, not just the "Beat" series. I think it might come down to say for example if you were changing from a tango motor to another tango motor it might not make a difference. But when I had changed from example a NEU to a Actro I flew it and thought "OK COOL". Landed did a mode 1, than mode 4 and "felt" the difference in flight immediately after doing these steps. So from then on I assumed it always made a difference and do it by practice. Perhaps with the newest ones in last 6 months this could have changed ...? I dunno, but I see that thread was from February 2006. Either way it only takes 2 minutes tops to do these steps once you have done them a few times, becomes second nature, and then you "know" with 100% certainty that you have done all you can do to assure maximum performance.

th3tick
11-19-2007, 09:00 PM
For changing a motor or the transmitter, it makes perfect sense to me. Different motor has different stuff that the ESC cares about. Changing a pinion, rotors, etc. make less, but you've got tons more experience than I on this.

I just keep reading more and more and get more and more confused. Thanks for putting it all in one place.

As to step 17, is there a reason you've selected 70%?

Thanks again,
John

OICU812
11-19-2007, 09:02 PM
As to step 17, is there a reason you've selected 70%?

Thanks again,
John

No reason other than to ensure not to "low" or to "high" of headpseed, providing the user has done their homework on the heli setup. :wink:

BTW.. pinion and lipo change are less absolutely, but... "they are still changes", the esc is a distributor cap in escence.

Lastly do not feel confused John, it is all about learning and the ride, I was there to and most days feel like I don't know anything still! :D

BruceW
11-19-2007, 09:11 PM
Instead of doing step 18 (motor spinning wrong way) why not just flip two phase lines?

If the motor wires are color matched to the ESC and its spinning wrong way I could see doing the flip in the ESC.

OICU812
11-19-2007, 09:17 PM
Instead of doing step 18 (motor spinning wrong way) why not just flip two phase lines?

If the motor wires are color matched to the ESC and its spinning wrong way I could see doing the flip in the ESC.

Absolutely you can do this, but if you have your wires soldered or connected this is a 2 minute fix tops to do it through the programming, it makes more sense to me to do it through programming but I understand your point. I will add this into the notes on the steps so if the user does not want to take the next programming step,

BTW after a period of say a week to two and all points have been discussed and hashed out I will be locking this sticky as the information should be very clear and provide all answers to new users. To save time and further clutter moving forward.

thank you.

BruceW
11-19-2007, 09:42 PM
What is the default soft start time on the Jazz?

I was thinking about picking up a programming card to change it if too slow but wanted to look through the manual and see all the options that are not adjustable through the configuration mode with the stick. Do you know where to find a PDF manual? I tried googling it but didn't find much except an html table at FXAeromodels.

OICU812
11-19-2007, 09:47 PM
No PDF to my knowledge, default time from initiation to 100% balance is 12 seconds, you can bump this down to 6 seconds through program card. Do note the program card only works for firmware models 7.5 and up. On your Jazz sticker there is a number, that is the firmware version.

Flybar-less
11-19-2007, 09:48 PM
Does this apply to the PowerJazz as well?

OICU812
11-19-2007, 10:00 PM
Does this apply to the PowerJazz as well?

Yes the program card works with the Powerjazz yes.

LITHIUMSTATIC
11-19-2007, 10:32 PM
So when you back to mode #1 then back into #4 it's kind of like reformating a harddrive and everything is fresh?

OICU812
11-19-2007, 11:50 PM
So when you back to mode #1 then back into #4 it's kind of like reformating a harddrive and everything is fresh?


Exactly.

LITHIUMSTATIC
11-20-2007, 12:10 AM
Thanks a million Shawn. :noteworthy

Foamy Love
11-20-2007, 06:45 AM
Thank you Shawn!!!! :) That makes a lot more sence than the manual ever did.

th3tick
11-20-2007, 08:25 AM
The other mode you can (should?) enable is mode 9. This puts it into LiPo low voltage (2.7-3.0V/cell) detection rather than the default 0.8V/cell cutoff. This is done with the same steps as 8-12, just waiting for 9 beeps instead of 4.

Of course, you shouldn't be using this to do anything more than protect the pack, and even then, it's arguable that you'd rather ruin the pack than have the motor cut out and wreck the heli...

Personally, I'd rather have it set for LiPo and know what value it cuts out at than the mystery number the other calculation comes out to.

LITHIUMSTATIC
11-20-2007, 10:13 AM
Thanks John! Good info.

OICU812
11-20-2007, 02:18 PM
Well I guess John, I do not ever enable that myself. I like to do everything by timer and calculated MAH, but I do understand you reasoning, as a "precaution."

fogger
11-20-2007, 02:40 PM
Hey Shawn, Nice writeup. I would only suggest you put in a heli preparation step (step 0) to remove blades, or pinion, or main gear for safety, in case something goes wrong, IE a person pulls the jumper at the wrong time, or forgets to put it on, or whatever. Also they can just disconnect the motor and watch for the LED blinks, if they prefer...

Better safe than sorry. I know it should not spool up, but Lithium already had this happen to him, and I'd hate to see it happen to anyone else...

The question as to whether the jazz needs to be re-initialized if you change motors is certainly interesting. Obviously this would depend on whether the esc stores information on the timing it has chosen to drive the motor with or not. I suspect it just figures it out each time you spool up, but I could be wrong. Why would you add the complexity of writing data to rom, and reading it every time you start up, if you already have the algorithm to figure out the correct timing... I'd just let it figure it out each time and save the hassle of reading and writing... Anyway it is my understanding that the jazz series change timing depending on the demand on the motor, so reading a fixed timing from rom makes no sense in this case also.. It would be nice to know what's really going on in there.

-Fog

Flybar-less
11-20-2007, 03:53 PM
I killed another CC today. So tonight I am going to install Power Jazz. Normally I run through the CC setup with all blades off. I am completely unfamiliar with the Kontroniks stuff, but I do have the programmer card. I get some of the hard settings, but not how to set the gov rpm.

Anyone want to walk me through this?

Also got some Maniac 623's to compare to the SAB 620's.

LITHIUMSTATIC
11-20-2007, 03:56 PM
Better safe than sorry. I know it should not spool up, but Lithium already had this happen to him, and I'd hate to see it happen to anyone else...



:oops: Well.... I knew it was going to spool up, just didn't know I wasn't suposed to in mode #1. The manual said full throttle so I did it. The heli jumped and spun so quick it was in the blink of an eye! Scared the hell out of me and thought I broke something. I'm sure the one-way bearing was hating life. Thankfully I had not made a flat spot on the motor shaft so the pinion grub screw broke loose. Made a nice ring around the shaft to show me where to make the flat spot. However their are better methods than this to mark were you need to make the flat spot.

If I tried that again I'm SURE something would give. Gave me a new respect as to how powerful these NEU motors are.

fogger
11-20-2007, 03:58 PM
Rjohn, it's simple, instead of a throttle curve, you set a straight line throttle percentage. The higher the "throttle line" the higher the headspeed. I suggest that you do use the stick setup method described here initially, (as opposed to the prog card) at least to set mode 4. This teaches the ESC what your particular radios' zero and 100% throttle settings look like (I think), assuming you set it up per Shawn's instructions...

-Fog

LITHIUMSTATIC
11-20-2007, 03:59 PM
You really don't need a program card.

th3tick
11-20-2007, 04:12 PM
You really don't need a program card.

As has been stated elsewhere, this is wholly true. The only use is decreasing the spool up time, which just isn't worth it. I've always figured it wasn't worth risking my beautiful HB gears to save 2-6 seconds. I just use those to remember to start my timer instead ;)

John

Flybar-less
11-20-2007, 04:13 PM
So the the gov mode in the radio is similarly set.
Things such as: Timing, Lipo cut off, Frequency, Gov gain, Spool up, Soft start, Current sensitivity can be set with the stick. They just use funny words like mode to describe setup state?

I will re-read these threads and instructions, then ask questions from there.