View Full Version : Painting PolyPropylene Canopy.

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04-16-2004, 02:19 AM
Part 1..Click here (http://www.bayrc.com/boards/viewtopic.php?t=664)

Part two: I'm at it again..

.30V2 size canopy, yellow, made my own decal..... I'll tell you guys more about it, when I'm done.. Stay tuned

04-16-2004, 02:21 AM
I used the same process, preparing for this canopy.

1) Washed it with soap and warm water.
2) Sand with 400 grit sand paper.
2) Wiped it down dry and wiped it with Acetone instead of Alcohol.


1) Primer - Krylon Fusion white primer.

Wet coat and then sand w/ 400grit sand paper.
Wet spray evenly for second coat and dry 1 hour.

2) Wet even coat of Primer, adhesion promoter (Dupli-Color), Let dry for 1 hour and shoot the final. Wet and even. Set for 1 hour.

3) I use Sun yellow, Krylon, Fusion paint. Thin layer 1st coat, let dry for 12min. Sand imperfections with 400 grit sand paper, then I sprayed my final coat. Wet even coat. Let dry for 4 hours.

04-16-2004, 02:23 AM
After the paint has dried, I cut away the decal that I will be using for this canopy. I printed out my own scheme, that I've gotten online. I used Avery transparent sticker paper, that I bought last year at Office Depot.

I went there today (Here in Union City) but couldn't find them anymore, and I checked at Avery.com, still no luck :( But Sheldon's has decal paper, that folks have been using on making decals on their planes.

Also, there's a thread on where to get different sizes from the Internet at RSA yahoo groups.

Anyways.... Here's the decal that I will be using.

04-16-2004, 02:25 AM
When I first started in this hobby, my first kit was a Mountain Models Switchback, trimmed with a Dragon on it's rudder. I called it "Spirit of the wind." I loved that plane for it thought me the basics of "Hair-O-Batic" flight.

Every time, I go out to the field. I could hear my heart pumping, I can feel the rush of adrenaline.. I missed that Newbie rush. Now with the Raptor, I have that same newbie feeling again.. I'm a newbie in Heli. flight, and boy what an adrenaline rush. :lol:

After the decals are cut away, it's time to stick them on. 8)

04-16-2004, 02:27 AM

04-16-2004, 02:31 AM
My first paint job :D

04-16-2004, 04:54 AM
SWEETjob Genovia!! Thank you for sharing this process!!! :D

04-16-2004, 06:52 AM
Looks nice!!!! almost makes me think I could do that. How does it hold up. Fuel ,dings, and scraps?

04-16-2004, 10:04 AM
***SWEETjob Genovia!! Thank you for sharing this process!!! ***

Thanks, your welcome :D


***Looks nice!!!! almost makes me think I could do that. ***

You can do it :)

It handles preety well, no peeling and fuel just slids off the canopy. My first canopy, I let it dry for 3 weeks before using it, so far, so good. Paint stayed on just fined. Properly cured protects it from dents due to dings.

04-16-2004, 01:49 PM
8) She's almost ready to fly, I'll wait two more weeks for the coat to fully dry 8)

04-16-2004, 10:42 PM
2 weeks? man if it aint dry in 24hrs it aint gonna dry !
just wanted to holler at you, ill send you pics of the latest can. me and CS painted, its sharp

04-17-2004, 04:20 AM
Hi mate I used a similar process but also added about 8 clear coats. Do you find the paint flakes easly if sctratched though? (see my post after yours on the chat board for a pic :)

04-18-2004, 08:37 PM
2 weeks? man if it aint dry in 24hrs it aint gonna dry !

lannie, thanks brah. Holla back at ya!!! :D When I first painted my canopy.. I didn't feel comfortable flying the darn thing :lol: .. I need 2 weeks to get over the thought of me dorking in and an excuse will for sure make her realllllly dry :lol: :lol:

but also added about 8 clear coats. Do you find the paint flakes easly if sctratched though?

That's more than enough, that's good. I haven't had any flakings on my first canopy which has 3 coat of clear and I have been flying it like crazy, now that I have the Dragon.. I don't take care of it like I used too. :lol: But no.. It haven't flaked on me and I usually take care of it on the field to prevent scratches.


Do you paint strip as well, as paint? I will ship my old canopy to you, if you do :) I need help on it :( I think, I put the wrong scheme on it... I need bright colors :D (Now I know... Hovering is way different than FF... The brighter the better)

12-01-2004, 08:31 AM
genovia, did you wetsand your canopy before you laid down another coat of clear? if not it may start to flake. but then again sometimes it doesnt. i do custom paint and auto body and another thing you guys may think of doing is adding a flex additive to the paint. unless you use a rattle can which i have never seen a rattle can have flex additive to it. but always use adhesion promoter on anything plastic or has sharp edges. just adding a few hints i learned through the years. and that is a sweet paint job you did genovia!!! :glasses2:

12-02-2004, 05:42 PM
I did my canopy the almost same design (pure chance:D) see avatar.
Duration report. :puke
*Paint just doesnt stand up to dings etc. 6 flights
*does not stand up to fuel say on rear skid where it can get a direct wetting even with muffler extn.

Trouble is the paint just cracks and peels off especially on flexing to get the canopy on /off. :arggg:

I sanded it first,
flamed it with a low flame
sanded it again
cleaned it with solvent
primed it with auto plastic component undercoat and etch
then 3 coats plastic component auto paint
then 8 clear coats quto clear top coat.

a Paint chemist assures me no paint will adhere properly to the PTFE (white plastic-bleach botle type ) canopy
"thats why we store our dyes etc in this type of container, cant stick- he stated"

best suggestion would be to cat with a releas agent then a wet layer of low weight glass cloth then paint over with glass mixed with ultralight balloons.
then paint it .
Method lay cloth on plastic wet it with epoxy and squegee off exess resin,
cover canopy with a reelease agent,
lay cloth over canopy still with plastic on back and peal off plastic, squegee on and remove excess resin.
after drying sand then paint on a coat of resin mixed with ultralite filler and sand smooth when dry then paint as per fibreglass paint instructions. :hug: :D

Curtis Burns
12-02-2004, 06:25 PM
Has anyone tried the paint they use to paint Lexan RC car bodies?


Hotshot Charlie
12-02-2004, 06:40 PM
Has anyone tried the paint they use to paint Lexan RC car bodies?


Hey Curt,
That is what I used on this fiberglass canopy. I did the paint with the little Pactra spray cans. I did the clear coat with a can of Dupli-Color Clear. Don't know how well it will hold up, but looks good after the first flights.



It worked ok, just take your time and use light coats, careful not to get any runs.

12-02-2004, 07:24 PM
Fibreglass should hold paint well its just the PTFE (white Bleach bottle palstic) was really designed not too.
Yet label glue seems to hang on but stays slightly sticky.I guess thats why the Rappys come with those Decals :)
The PTFE would only cost a poofteenth (exttremely small amount) of fibreglass :D
and would be easy to blow :badair: mold.

Hotshot Charlie
12-02-2004, 10:06 PM
I think Gohbee has the best deal on the heli canopy, it is fiberglass, even though it is thin fiberglass, it is fiberglass. BTW, the Gohbee Stinger Canopy will work on a Rappy.... so that might give you guys some ideas. I think the Stinger Canopy is under $30.

Also, on the plastic canopy's, I have read that the flashing method and the Krylon Fusion paint is hard to beat. I was going to try it, but never got around to it.

12-02-2004, 10:43 PM
Amazing how many guises that Chinese Raptor knock off comes in.
The fibreglass canopy was a good idea much better than the PTFE crap :)

12-03-2004, 01:47 AM
yeah that ptfe stuff is tricky to work with. i have over 20 newbie flights on mine, IE. trying to get the hover thing down. and my paint is doing just fine. i used a two part primer with an adhesion promoter laid on first. i also added a flex additive to the primer. after that cured i wetsanded and laid another coat of addhesion promoter. then mixed my base coat," straight yellow pigment" and added some flex additive to that as well. shot three coats of that let it cure then mixed the tri coat up. a kameleon kolor pearl with some innerclear and flex additive, shot two coats of that on it. let that cure and mixed up the clearcoat with some flex additive in it. i shot three coats of that waited a day. wetsanded it shot a coat of addhesion promoter then mixed up some more clear with flex additive in it and hot it. now the trick here is to let it completely cure! now all paint doesnt fully cure at the same rate. i know the paint may feel dry but it is not completely cured. rattle can stuff usualy takes about a week and a half to two. i used auto paint which takes about a month and a half to two! and if you dont let it completely cure your chances of it peeling or gumming up from fuel is more likely. not to say that it will happen but the percentage rate goes up. just some hints for you guys.

12-03-2004, 02:08 AM
Wow and i thought I was patient :oops: Im just a wack on it on and hope by comparison :mrgreen:
you sound suspiciously like a pro painter to me :D

12-03-2004, 02:13 AM
not a pro, but i do do custom paint and autobody. i have alot of advantages since i have a wholemixing station at work so i can make any color in the rainbow. also have all the additives here. but if you need any help or advice just let me know.

03-23-2005, 07:21 AM
Heres a late update. My paint just got worse (flaked whenever scratched slightly. So I deflaked the whole canopy, Sanded it lightly flamed it and heres the super secret way of making paint stick...
paint with MEK Methyl Ethyl Ketone (Plumbers PVC pipe etch) all over and immediatly spray on the standard etch primer then your paint, decals and clear coats. Sticks very very well and wears very well.

I knew there just had to be a reasonable solution :D

Thank you very muuch :smokin:

04-04-2005, 09:13 AM
Is the Krylon fuel safe?

I just built a new wood field box and need to paint it.