MY Raptor 50se Problem

[burke.bill]

I am having problems starting my Hyper 50 I installed a Multi-Gov with no problem to speak of. Now when I reinstalled the engine when trying to start it I can barley hold on to the rotor as it seems that the starter also trys to turn the rotor and when the engine trys to start I can feel the clutch pulling hard. I know that it's not right I have started it many times and it never acted like this. Here is the kick when I finally get it started it pulls very hard ( Rotor Trying to turn ) and all of a sudden there is nothing I try to spool up and the clutch just slips at least I think that is what is going on the engine just winds up and the rotor doesn't spin. Next question how does the starter shaft turn the engine over the clutch bell can't come in contact with the clutch because the clutch on the engine is not tuching the bell right? so how does it turn the engine over to start? and what keeps the the clutch for grabing the clutch bell during the engine turning over because that is what seems to be the case I think? Perhaps if I understand what happens when I put the started on and try and start the engine? I could figure this out. My one way clutch bearing seems fine I pulled the gears out and relubed the bearing and tested it and yes it turns only one way like it is supposed to. Thanks

[WayneBrown]

Using paragraphs is a good thing. :)
Sounds as if the engine nut has backed off the fan hub. drop the engine and retighten it.

[vandelescrow]

There are actualy 2 one ways. One in the gear assembly (I think this is the one you were refering to), the other is in the clutch. The one in the clutch only plays a part when you are starting the engine (connects the clutch to the starter shaft. How the head turns is the clutch, using centrifical force, expands making contact with the clutch bell.

Per the post before mine, sounds like the nut holding the fan on backed off. I take it you had to remove it to mount the magnets for your governor. Check this forum, I know there is a thread talking about tightening the fan/clutch. Ensure you use the tool that holds the connecting rod while tightening and not anything you put in the glow plug hole to prevent piston damage.

[LONEWOLF2440]

Been there done that

[burke.bill]

I pulled the engine and pulled the starter shaft and clutch bell. I found that the oneway bearing in the clutch seem to work ok but I didn't like it's sound when spun. Also the roller bearing inside were pretty loose. Some Almost hanging out.

The clutch liner was pretty glazed don't know if that is why it wouldn't spool up when I did get the engine to run? Can't say I saw anything wrong with the clutch shoe as far as I could tell.

I now understand how the engine is engauged by the starter shaft. But here is my question?

Even if the oneway bearing were bad all it would do is not engauge the engine right? How could it affect the rotor trying to turn so hard when trying to start the engine? the rotor was engauged so hard it was very hard to start the engine let alone hold the rotor from turning.

And next when the engine did start I could barely hold the rotor from turning at idle. Then all of a sudden the clutch would let go and then you could rev the engine up and still not engauge the clutch.

The Fan nut is very tight so that isn't the problem and yes that would have been the first thing you would have thought so I'm going to replace both the clutch shoe with bearing and the clutch liner.

Now with the above anyone have any idea's what to do next...?

[WayneBrown]

check the pinion on top of the clutch bell, maybe it's sheared off?
at this point you have nothing to lose by not tearing into it further.

[burke.bill]

Did that at your suggestion and the Pinion is good don't know where else to look. Guess I'll just order a new clutch shoe and Clutch liner and see if that works.

Just don't know what could have locked the rotor in while trying to start the engine. Let me tell ya the engine was very hard to start because of the rotor locked in.

As I said when it finally started I could hardly hold the heli from spining in my hands even at idle. And then all of a sudden the Heli is normal and idles just fine rotor doesn't turn it's just like it should be except now the rotor won't spool up the engine just revs up.

Also I might add that besides the multi-gov I added I put on a Align muffler can't see where that would do anything.

And one last thing I made sure the Multi-gov senser is not hitting the fan....

[ragmag]

When you reinstalled the engine, you made shure the engine was centered by spinning the starter shaft backwards?

Just had to ask. ;-)

[LAMAR COOLEY]

burke.bill
I would like to share one of my similar problems with you.
I also have a raptor 50 with an OS 50. Recently I had experienced some of the same
strange symptoms as you are experiencing.:( At my flying site the first thing that came to
mind was that the nut had backed off and the fan was jambed in the bell. Later that night
dureing disassembly. I could not pull the start shaft from the top side after removing the
hex start coupling.:mad: After almost competely disassembling the fromt half and droping the hole engine assembly with engine,clutch, bell and start shaft. I was able to remove the bell over the top of the start shaft only to find that the start shaft was jambed in the one-way
bearing in the clutch.:roll: I had to remove the clutch from the fan with the start shaft stuck in it. Man that thing was a bear trying to remove.:arggg: It required a hammer and an old Trex main rotor shaft to drive it our. When I did get it out. Three needles in the one-way bearing fell out. So the thought occured that perhaps with the jambed start shaft my engine may have been running backwards, jambing the clutch into the liner and makeing the rotor want to turn with much force ( over and above what an idle in the right direction would have applied) I use a Hydratorque starter with a starting wand that also has a one-way bearing.Which would have allowed the engine to run backwards with a jambed clutch start shaft. I had an old broken clutch with a good bearing so I was able to use the Aligh 450one-way bearing removal tool) perfect fit ) to remove the old bearing and press in the " new" one. :thumbup:As an aside, I did a bearing search and after an e-mail request, was informed by "BOCA BEARINGS" that this bearing was available through them.:thumbup: Of course I had affected the repair by then. But this is good to know for future reference.
So did installing a new clutch resolve your problem?
Sure would like to know.
Hope this may be of some small help.
Regards

[LAMAR COOLEY]

Hey Bill
Have you noticed. The Helifreak gang has created a forum devoted to you and I ?:smokin:
Yep, the " OLD:FART Club ".:happyd:wow2::clappp:alcohol:OK:woot:OMG
:Stay:cool:
L.C.

[burke.bill]

Ok I changed the clutch shoe with bearing, and replaced the clutch liner and now all is normal. That simple? Yup nothing to it must have been one of the two things. Thanks all for you help....