New OS 50 Hyper tuning problems

[Hummingbird3D]

I have an OS 50 hyper which I have put 3 tanks in to break the engine in and many times since then I can't get the engine to run smoothly enough to get off the ground now. It starts and idles ok and will sit on the runway in idle all day but when I spool it up the dang thing looks like it is going to shake itself to death. I 1st thought it was the gyro system but I checked it against another 50 with the same setup and it is fine. The main shaft and flybar are straight and the blades are balanced. When the engine starts to spool up for take off it will sputter on and off and maybe I think that is why I first thought it was a gyro prob cause the tail would engage and then not. With all that the engine still won't rev up nicely. I think I adjusted the idle screw the wrong way at one point and then reset the needles back to factory specs but still no luck. It is strange that after only 3 tanks I can't get the engine to work any better than one I've had over 2 years of use.

[mporlier]

The initial needle valve position for break-in should 1 1/2 turn from closed position. This is very rich and when trying to spool up you WILL kill the engine often. It is flooded, that is why. You do need to run it rich for 5 tanks, you just have to find a way to lift off.

Me, when it sits in idle for a couple of seconds, I gently give a little throttle and back off. I do this a couple of times and the engine starts responding much better. Than I can lift off no problem.

If you are open more than this you will kill the engine every time.

Marc

[Jafa]

If the heli is shaking badly and the engine is spluttering on/off
you need to check the glow plug - it could be the problem

Being too rich is also likely but you don't normally get the heli shaking badly due to rich

I would be tempted to pull the carb out, strip it down and clean it out

[aevans692]

ok do this..


check glow plug as mentioned early on.

Turn needle valve all the way in, that is clockwise , do not tighten only turn it in till it seats.. , then turn it out 1.5 turns (anti clockwise) I like to put a black dot on one side of the needle valve using a marker pen this helps with counting the turns..

then make sure your idle screw (that is the small black screw on the carb) lines up with the join on top of the carb, you will see what I mean, The idle screw is very sensitive it will only move 90 degrees from center in either dir it only needs to be moved a hair at a time..

now your back to factory, make sure every thing else is good carb seated in properly..

now try to start it remember you are running rich, as you have been running her already I would turn the needle valve in .25 of a turn, 1 quarter . now she should start.

fly 5 tanks in total to brake in a new engine once you have done that check temp by pushing you finger on the back plate of the engine (thats the plate which faces the ground under your heli) you should be only able to hold your finger on there for five seconds, if its cold turn the needle valve in (clockwise) a few clicks at a time, if too hot then turn a few clicks out...

that is the all there is to it, once you have it at correct setting your needle valve will be around three quaters to one turn out, that will give good response and power...

good luck.

[OHIOBOWHUNTER]

A little trick I use when running a rich engine is when you carry it to the flight line leave the glow igniter attached, then as soon as you take it off pinch the fuel line until the engine starts to lean and speed up then back away quick and start bumping up the throttle to get it spooling up , this helps allot !:thumbup:

[BarracudaHockey]

2 to 2.5 turns and it should run. 1.5 turns is not "very rich" and could be lean depending on your fuel and weather conditions.