Trex 500 Build Videos

[davzucker]

Well like I said my kit did not have an A on either side but if there is an A now then that would be against everything Align has done... So you got me confused...

Bob

Try this one. I had an A only on one and a B only on the other one. Here's the kicker. The B was on the outside on one and the A was on the outside of the other one. Calipered the id's of each to determine which way they went on.

David

[Bignose13]

Mine were both 'B' and went on the inside.

Simon

[cudaboy_71]

Try this one. I had an A only on one and a B only on the other one. Here's the kicker. The B was on the outside on one and the A was on the outside of the other one. Calipered the id's of each to determine which way they went on.

David

mine are exactly opposite: A on inside of one, B on inside of other *shrug*

[DigitalCop]

Finless:

Just wanted to post a quick "thank you" for your videos. I had my new TREX 500 built and flying in one day thanks to your outstanding videos. They have made a world of difference!

Keep up the great work and I appreciate your contribution to this hobby.

Todd

[Moreflying]

Hey guys. I'm working on my build and on video 2 for page 6 making my links that go from the mixer arm balls to the swash. It is indicated in the vid. that we use the 31mm rod with an indside gap of 21mm instead of the 34mm rod with an inside gap of 24mm as indicated on page 6. Which are we using? Thanks..

[Finless]

Because I got a early kit... my manual was WRONG.... Use what it says in your manual and this will get you real close... Follow my setup vids after that...

Bob

[Moreflying]

Thank you for your commitment and help! Your videos make this great for us visual folks. A large part of my success in this hobby is linked to your help on this site. Much appreciated.

Scott

[Moreflying]

I'm not sure if this is the best place to ask, but after installing my blade grips, I feel a lot of resistance when moving them. I put plenty of grease on the thrust bearings. It this normal. I thought they were supposed to turn freely and almost fall around on their own weight. Thanks.

[cudaboy_71]

I'm not sure if this is the best place to ask, but after installing my blade grips, I feel a lot of resistance when moving them. I put plenty of grease on the thrust bearings. It this normal. I thought they were supposed to turn freely and almost fall around on their own weight. Thanks.

yes...they should turn like they're on...er...bearings.

maybe you didnt get the thrust bearings pressed all the way into the grips?

[highland flyer]

I think you will find the thrust races have not seated properly into there tracks causing them to pre-tension the grips.

Suggest you try slackning a spindle bolt then give the grips a good waggle to see if they will seat properly. If not you may have to dismantle and use the grease to hold the races in position whilst re-assembling.

cheers Brian

[Thomas60]

Because I got a early kit... my manual was WRONG.... Use what it says in your manual and this will get you real close... Follow my setup vids after that...

Bob
Thanks for the 500 build videos. Mime is supposed to be here tomorrow. I used your videos to setup my 450 and it turned out great. You reccommended Throttle & pitch cruves in those 450 videos and they were spot on for the 450 T-rex. Can I use the same pitch and thorttle cruves on the 500 T-Rex that you reccomended in the 450 videos.? Or will they be differant? I ill be usijng the 12-T pinion if that makes any differancee Thanks for any help. Thomas

[Finless]

Yes you can but on 12T if the heli wobbles increase them a bit.
0, 60, 80, 90, 100
and
ifdle up, 90 flat or go all the way up to 100 flat.

Bob

[helihenk]

Finless ,

I don't hear many people using governer mode ?

Henk

[Finless]

WHen your running flat throttle curves of 90 or more there is no use for gov mode! How can the gov give more than 100% throttle if your already running 100%?

Bob

[JARYAN]

Just thought I'd throw this out, as I haven't seen it posted anywhere on here. The newer 500 kits (got mine last week) are coming with a third set of spacers for those wanting to use the 5245's. Thanks Bob.

jr

[jurassic5]

Hi Bob,

I'm now finishing by programming the ESC.

Your settings are :

- Low / Mid / Mid / Mid / High / High

I'm not running a timer, would you advise me to put High Cutoff ?

That will be :

- Low / Mid / High / Mid / High / High

[Finless]

Even on high running to cut off will take your packs too low! Why are you not running a timer? Bottom line no this is not good to do.

Bob

[jurassic5]

thanks for the quick reply. I noticed that I had no choice ... In fact if I put high stick for high battery cutoff.... it simply does not save it. I know this is weird, so I did a quick video to show the programming and the result. You'll notice that I go Higher stick on cutoff... and when it starts.... it goes mid stick by two beeps.

http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=O_Jqd5aavB4

simply weird. Did I missed something ? ESC bug ?



Cédric

[Finless]

You got it backwards... Look on page 27 of the manual. There IS NO high stick setting for cut off. Low stick is HIGH cut off and mid stick is mid cut off. There is no low cut off for this ESC.

Bob

[jurassic5]

I apologize, as I was only looking your builds, I almost forgot the manual :D

1/ the problem is that if I select mid cutoff, the power will cut off without alerting me. I'm used to have a low cutoff on the TREX450, so I have a little warning and time to land.

So that would be a high cutoff first, then time my flights... get the time of the first cutoff

then move to mid cutoff and use timer.

I don't want to get my last cutoff while in air

2/ I'm getting -12 / +12 - running 13T pinion

Assuming that I have only one idleup setup and five values available in my radio, I have this :

Normal flight
Throttle : 0 / 60 / 83 / 90 / 95
Pitch : -4 / 2 / 5.5 / 7 / 9

Sport flight & "3D"
Throttle : 95 / 95 / 95 / 95 / 95
Pitch : -12 to +12 straight line

Would you modify anything ?

Cédric

[Pinecone]

Most of the cut offs are too low for your packs and will reduce the life of your packs significantly.

You want to fly a 4 minute (as close to exactly as you can) and they see how much your packs take to recharge (mAH). You are shooting to put back in no more thna 80% of the pack capacity. So if youa re running 2100 packs, you want to put back in less than 1680 mAH on recharge.

Once you have the 4 minute time, if it is a good bit less than 1680, divide the actual pack use by 4 to get mAH per minute. The divide the 1680 by the mAH per minute to get the max number of minutes you can safely fly.

So if you fly 4 minutes and put back in say 1200, 1200 mAH / 4 minutes = 300 per minute. 1680 mAH / 300 mAH per minute = 5.6 minutes max safe flight.

I would set my timer to 5 to 5 1/4 minutes to get a bit of pad.

[Finless]

Agreed... Cedric you cannot fly to ESC cut off on ANY of the settings on the Align ESC! They are all too low and your hurting your packs man! These setting are for ONE specific reason... to "try" to let you know yuo have gone too far. Unfortunatly even the high setting is too much discharge...

Do you have a charger that tells you how many MA go back in your pack after a charge? If not to do well in this hobby and have packs last a long time you need a charger that does this!

Bob

[jurassic5]

Agreed... Cedric you cannot fly to ESC cut off on ANY of the settings on the Align ESC! They are all too low and your hurting your packs man! These setting are for ONE specific reason... to "try" to let you know yuo have gone too far. Unfortunatly even the high setting is too much discharge...

Do you have a charger that tells you how many MA go back in your pack after a charge? If not to do well in this hobby and have packs last a long time you need a charger that does this!

Bob


Hi Pinecone, Bob,

I'm getting it. I wish I have a DX7, because the timer in my radio is not resettable per flight, I have to reset it in the setup when powering on the radio and starts as soon as the radio start :D Maybe I need a chronometer. Huge thanks to both of you for pointing my attention to this. Btw the easiest is to go idleup as soon as I hover to get a more precise average flight as the motor will be solicited always by the same motor curve ?

I have the Watt's up meter. I'm using it to get watts on my planks for choosing propellers :D

It does display the lipo voltage if I plug the lipo in it, but not more I assume. Maybe I should get a field tool for mesuring the amps lefts in my lipos. Any advices?


2/ I'm getting -12 / +12 - running 13T pinion

Assuming that I have only one idleup setup and five values available in my radio, I have this :

Normal flight
Throttle : 0 / 60 / 83 / 90 / 95
Pitch : -4 / 2 / 5.5 / 7 / 9

Sport flight & "3D"
Throttle : 95 / 95 / 95 / 95 / 95
Pitch : -12 to +12 straight line

Would you modify anything ?
is my 2/ ok for you ?



Cédric

[Pinecone]

Buy a nice kitchen count down timer. That will work fine.

You can use a meter between your charger and pack while charging to read the mAH put back in the pack.

I prefer to have both curves the same from mid stick up (as per Finless), so run 40 - 45 - 50- 75 - 100 on the Normal pitch curve. That means at mid stik or above the heli doesn't jump with flipping to Idle Up.

[th3tick]

A timer that I've got, works well, and straps on to the DX7's antenna with a bit of Velcro is the "Talking Timer". Search goog with that and a number of sellers will come up. It's nice in that it announces the countdown fairly loudly, plus has nice big numbers should you feel compelled to look at it.