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david212
06-26-2008, 09:19 PM
where is the gain setting on the transmitter? I have it set to gear channel and I was raising and lowering the end point adjustments on the gear travel adjust but that did not seem to do much. I believe it is the gain as well though

Plane Hazza
06-27-2008, 05:35 AM
where is the gain setting on the transmitter? I have it set to gear channel and I was raising and lowering the end point adjustments on the gear travel adjust but that did not seem to do much. I believe it is the gain as well though

It depends on the Tx you have.

On my FF7CP, it's on the second mode page, under 'Gyro'. You are presented with options that let u set the gain to particular switches, switch states, as well as the amount of gain obviously.

I've got mine set to Switch E, which is the the Idle Up switch. This allows me to have different gains per Idle modes, which is needed due to varying head speeds between my set Idle Up modes.


*It's amazing how fast I'm remembering all of this stuff! :D

I know what you'll all say to this question: if you're on a small budget, this hobby isn't for me. But! I'm determined to stay in a hobby that I've always enjoyed, despite never really being able to afford it.

So my question is: how much does it usually cost you guys to set up a 500? I've obviously got my FF7 Tx so I would need:

500CF kit (inc Motor/ESC, CF blades) £295
GY401 £90
4 servos, (say 3x £25 + £50) £125
LiPos (minimum 2x 3S1P) £90
Rx £45
LiPo Alarm £10.

Looks like I'm looking at ~£665, and thats the absolute minimum. God this hobby is expensive!!

Montana_Reefer
06-27-2008, 10:41 AM
So my question is: how much does it usually cost you guys to set up a 500? I've obviously got my FF7 Tx so I would need:

500CF kit (inc Motor/ESC, CF blades) £295
GY401 £90
4 servos, (say 3x £25 + £50) £125
LiPos (minimum 2x 3S1P) £90
Rx £45
LiPo Alarm £10.

Looks like I'm looking at ~£665, and thats the absolute minimum. God this hobby is expensive!!

With all the ESD mods and metal upgrades I'm into mine for about $1300.00

Plane Hazza
06-27-2008, 12:24 PM
With all the ESD mods and metal upgrades I'm into mine for about $1300.00

So that seems right. Obviously its going to cost a bit more here in the UK, because country sucks like that lol.

TBH, I'm only thinking out loud. I have no money anyway, but one can dream.

I'll get one for sure when I start to work full time :)

david212
06-27-2008, 09:16 PM
Ok, I have gear set as for my gyro and I see the gyro screen.

1.It gives me an option for auto or rudder d/r, what should I set it at?
2. What should my rates be at for 0 and 1?
3. F. Mode has 3 settings Norm, Stnt, and Hold, do those need to be adjusted as well?

David G.

david212
06-28-2008, 02:46 PM
i had someone help me and fine tuned my gyro so it is good

srhadden
07-05-2008, 12:26 AM
Chalk up another Finless Bob fan! Fantastic prep for down the road. Videos are great. I don't have a t-rex 500 but I plan to purchase one down the road and I'm loving these videos. Well done! Professional videos, no nonsense, well-spoken. Wow.

ScottKing
07-05-2008, 05:36 PM
Thanks Finless!:clappp

This was my first build and living out here in Never Never land in Wyoming, your the closest to get tips and hints from.

You make a big difference! :noteworthy

320pilot
07-08-2008, 10:43 PM
I am using the stock Align motor, and 13 tooth pinion, and 6 S LiPos. Just wondered if any one has throttle curve and pitch curve values that work well for programing my DX-7 tx. I use the stock CF blades that came with the Trex-500 too.
It seems you need higher values with the throttle curve (than my T-450 v2) or I get a "tail bob" with my T500 due to low headspeed.

Thanks;)

tessex
07-09-2008, 11:38 PM
Wooohooooo!! Thank you Finless Bob! I just finished my build tonight following your videos, took her down to the basement and got a minute or two of hovering out of her!! Considering I'm essentially brand new to Helis, that's pretty darn good!! Only had to use a couple clicks of right aileron and down elevator to get a stable hover. Also checked blade tracking and it is dead on!! Thanks again for the outstanding how to!!! :D -- Tom

Finless
07-09-2008, 11:49 PM
Wooohooooo!! Thank you Finless Bob! I just finished my build tonight following your videos, took her down to the basement and got a minute or two of hovering out of her!! Considering I'm essentially brand new to Helis, that's pretty darn good!! Only had to use a couple clicks of right aileron and down elevator to get a stable hover. Also checked blade tracking and it is dead on!! Thanks again for the outstanding how to!!! :D -- Tom

DAMN I love a success story! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Go outside now and fly your arse off ;)

Bob

superbob
07-10-2008, 09:40 AM
are you suppose to put the stickers on both sides of the flybar paddles or only one he didn't say in the video.

superbob
07-10-2008, 09:49 AM
anwered my question whatched finlesses other video.

EatMorePizza
07-11-2008, 10:19 AM
Bob did have any issues with the self-tap screws when installing the bottom plate?

I used new allen tools and I still found the screws stripping with no effort. Seems like the cf frame's holes where to small or the bottom plate mounting holes where small. Either way I found alot of resistance when installing those six self-tapping screws.

Any recomendations?

daijoubu
07-11-2008, 10:58 AM
I've found the sizing of the align screws to be a little odd. Even with brand new, good hex tools, they are a poor fit. Apparently the align tools are a better fit. I found that ones I'd rounded out could be removed with an equivalent SAE size tool as it's slightly larger than the 1.5mm metric tool. I've also purchased a set of aftermarket replacement screws.

EatMorePizza
07-11-2008, 02:15 PM
I've found the sizing of the align screws to be a little odd. Even with brand new, good hex tools, they are a poor fit. Apparently the align tools are a better fit. I found that ones I'd rounded out could be removed with an equivalent SAE size tool as it's slightly larger than the 1.5mm metric tool. I've also purchased a set of aftermarket replacement screws.


Ok so Im not alone. Iv'e built a couple of heli's and dozens of rc vehicles, and I never stripped two screws in a row. Where can I get these screws you mentioned, or maybe Align makes a upgraded screw kit?

EatMorePizza
07-11-2008, 03:05 PM
Ahhhhhh salvation at last.

http://www.rcscrewz.com/index2.php/stainless-screw-kits-heli/align-heli-screw-kits/cPath/350_295?osCsid=bce77ae769181b745c5044ae813d9ee8

daijoubu
07-11-2008, 03:37 PM
Those are the ones I got. Just showed up yesterday. Most expensive package of screws I've ever purchased but looks like they'll solve the problem.

Illusion
07-13-2008, 04:27 AM
Hello T-Rex 500 builders!

I just bought mine and have some trouble assembling the Radius Arm to the Washout Control Arm. When I un-screwed, checked for thread lock and tightened the screws again the Radius Arm is not moving freely in the Washout. I have to un-screw 1/4 turn on both sides before the Radius moves freely without "glitches"

Is this normal ?

BR;

Plane Hazza
07-13-2008, 09:21 AM
have you got washers on both sides of the bearing (if there is one). I haven't built a 500, only a 450, but at a guess, it sounds like a lack of washers that are needed to capture in the inner race of the bearing. I had that exact problem on my 450, when I forgot to put the washers on.

Illusion
07-13-2008, 09:59 AM
Thanks for the reply

There is no washer. Screws goes directly on bearing on the radius arm according to the factory assembly and drawings in the instruction manual.

Finless
07-13-2008, 12:29 PM
The 500 does not use a washer behind the arm as the washout block has a small shoulder that "acts" like a washer. If your arm is notchy then the bearings are probably not seated fully in the arm OR possibly Align forgot to put the small brass spacer sleeve between the bearings in the arm. Take the bearings out and inspect for the sleeve or something that is not allowing the bearings to seat in the arm against the sleeve.

Bob

Illusion
07-13-2008, 01:55 PM
Thanks Bob.. but it's not the assembling to the washout block which is troublesome.

I have uploaded a video on youtube to show the problem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGrVxQ9yvNE

Finless
07-14-2008, 02:14 PM
Looking at the video that is not that stiff that I would worry about it.... Looks OK to me unless the bearing is NOTCHY feeling when you move it....

Bob

Illusion
07-14-2008, 02:31 PM
That's exactly how it feels.. notchy when I move the radius arm up and down. But it's only notchy when both screws are attached. One by one they are smooth. Also if I unscrew 1/4 turn on both sides the radius arm is smooth.

I have ordered H50013 Metal Control Lever Upgrade. Hope the upgrade fix the problem.