View Full Version : Newbie Ion owner
misskimo
04-29-2005, 07:56 PM
they say Gov doesnt work will with that controller , V curve , I think its programed all ready , just make sure when running it that the motor stops completely before fireing back up , if you do , the tail gear will strip on you. I like my schulze gov and softstart
Tony
Russ McC
04-29-2005, 09:17 PM
The instructions are very good. My models are both from the first run so I don’t know if this is covered now but it was not covered in the instructions I have. 1 the ESC is already set so don’t mess with it. 2 run a TH curve in normal 0-40-80-80-80, idle up 1= 80-80-80-80-80, idle up 2= 100-92-85-92-100. I also use enough throttle to cyclic mixing to get full throttle at mid stick and half cyclic.
The best way to start the model is to plug every thing in and or turn it on in hold then when your ready to spool it up turn on idle up 1 or 2 and release hold, this will ensure a soft start every time.
I’m quoting my self hear from earlier in this thread. Also no do not use the governor mode, it is worthless but that’s ok because it is not needed :mrgreen:
By the way idle 1 is for hover and light flying only :glasses:
misskimo
04-30-2005, 12:02 AM
it works great if you got the right controller . :glasses:
Tony
simon109
04-30-2005, 02:27 PM
Does this look like it's assembled correctly, mainly the to clips onto the brass slider ?
Also how do I tighten up the 2 M4 bolts that hold on the grips, I just can't find a thin enough socket that will go into the blade grip ?
I am using an open gearbox as it came with my kit but the tail is very very hard to get onto the tail output shaft on the open gear box ?
Simon.
misskimo
04-30-2005, 04:38 PM
looks right to me except mine is drove in a tad more , the CD that came with the kit should have pictures and drawing in there ,
about the blade grips , well you can get a 1/4" socket , and grind it down to work ,
Tony
simon109
04-30-2005, 05:16 PM
Cheers, just wanted to make sure I had the 2 serated clips on the right way.
Next problem, the brass slider and tail bit just won't fit onto the shaft on the open gearbox, it's too tight ?
Can anyone give me some instructions on how I mount the open gearbox to the boom, as I don't have the original sealed unit to work from I'm a bit stuck :?
Thanks
Simon.
MinAirChris
04-30-2005, 10:12 PM
Which speed control came in your kit? If it is the 77-O-heli then yes it was programmed at MinAir. If it was the 77-3P then it will need to to be stick programmed by you. Do not in either case use the governor as it severly limits the power of the heli and does not work very well.
Chris
misskimo
04-30-2005, 11:15 PM
Chris is going to have to chime in on that question Simon , but if its tight , dont run the heli or it will cause the shaft to heat up and freeze the slider to the shaft , needs to be slop free , with alittle play for oil.
Tony
simon109
05-01-2005, 06:22 AM
Hi,
It's the 77-O-heli version.
I found the supplement the comes with the open gearbox :roll: so should be able to figure that bit out now.
Bit worried about the tail rotor fitting on the output shaft, just wont fit on there :(
Simon.
Russ McC
05-01-2005, 09:33 AM
Hi Simon,
Glad you found the instructions for the gear box.
The tail hub should be snug fitting on the shaft, rotating the shaft inside the hub to get the hub in place is normal and good. The slider should slide on easy. Check the end of the shaft, use a file and go around the very end of the shaft to remove any burr/ high spot that might be hanging things up. If this does not work you can use some fine grit wet dry sand paper on the shaft as well as the inside of the slider, remember the hub should be snug so don’t over do it on the shaft. I have never received one of these like this but others have and normally get them to fit with just a little fine tuning. It is better to need a little fitting then for it to be loose. Let us know how it goes.
simon109
05-01-2005, 01:58 PM
Thanks Russ, will give that a try.
well you can get a 1/4" socket , and grind it down to work
Sorted that bit, with the help from the Dremal :D
Simon.
simon109
05-02-2005, 02:17 PM
Check the end of the shaft, use a file and go around the very end of the shaft to remove any burr/ high spot that might be hanging things up. If this does not work you can use some fine grit wet dry sand paper on the shaft as well as the inside of the slider, remember the hub should be snug so don’t over do it on the shaft.
Worked a treat, fits perfect now. And she's nearly finished.
As I got the kit second hand unbuilt, the person swapped the standard gearbox bags out for the open one and theres two bits I need #0056 M3 x 5 “dog point” Socket Set Screws going by the drawing they look like special grub screws with a bit on the end ? can I use some standard M3x5 grub screws ? if not where can I get some ?
Thanks
Simon.
ChrisS
05-02-2005, 04:21 PM
The 0056 set screws are just a "dog point" set screw. That is what they are called over here anyway. They are a standard hardware item. They have a tip on the end, as you surmised, that is 1.85mm in diameter by 1mm in length. Do not use a standard point set screw as it will not lock in to the dimple in the shaft as well.
I would think that Dave at Motors and Rotors would have these in stock.
Chris
Russ McC
05-02-2005, 04:22 PM
NO NO, You must use the corect part there! Get them back from your friend or Min Air. Hear I might get these at the LHS but I don,t know your situation.
simon109
05-02-2005, 06:08 PM
Had a look on Motors & Rotors, they have them listed so hopefully they will have them in stock, give them a call tomorrow.
Simon.
simon109
05-04-2005, 12:57 PM
Got the correct parts from M&R, now for my next problem. I am probably being a bit to picky here so just say if I am.
Tail rotor pushrod, says install threaded studs into carbon rod 23mm but I have the open gearbox and that says I need to add 10mm so I thought I would install the threaded studs to 18mm either end. So I then measured it as per the open gearbox supplement, I have 773mm from the ends of the threaded rods and it should 778.5mm.
I know it's only 5mm but I don't have any servo in there to measure it up too. Should I add a couple of mm to each end or leave it as 773mm ?
Simon.
Russ McC
05-04-2005, 02:12 PM
Hi Simon,
No your not being to picky, this linkage is very important. When I installed an open gear box I had a linkage kit laying around and the carbon rod was longer and needed to be cut to length, I cut it 10mm or so longer then the stock one and installed the threaded rods to fit so I had good depth in the links and minimum exposed threads. I would get a longer rod and build to fit.
One lesson I have learned over the years. If you think, well that will probably work even though it is not perfect; it will fail 90% of the time.
simon109
05-04-2005, 06:05 PM
Thanks Russ,
In the end I just glued 18mm in, instead of the 23mm so theres still plenty of the rod in there and the links still have alot of thread available :D
Simon.
simon109
05-06-2005, 01:43 PM
Got my blades, TG690's but they don't fit :( They have a 4mm bush in the end and the Ion's bolts are 5mm. right ? Is the bush meant to be removed or have I got the wrong ones ? part no. on box is #8210 I think they should be #3280's ?
Simon.
Russ McC
05-06-2005, 02:05 PM
Yes the bolts are 5mm. I don’t think you can remove the bushing unless it is loose like the ones that come with the SABs, these are 5mm but come with bushings for use with 4mm bolts. I don’t have any TGs but I have drilled a couple sets of Big Boys Toys (BBT) to 5mm with no problems. Last I can remember the BBTs look just like the TGs are they the same?
simon109
05-06-2005, 02:09 PM
They look the same as SAB's, white with a carbon stripe. i did try tapping the bush out not very hard, but it didn't move :( don't fancy drilling them. Have to ring the shop tomorrow they aint got the same part no. as the one's listed on there site, but they did ask me what heli are they for when I ordered :?
Simon.
MinAirChris
05-06-2005, 08:22 PM
Hey Simon
If you have or can get access to a press and lathe, press the brass spacers out of the grips, bore them out in the lathe and re-install them with the press. I do it all the time here, with no issues. You could use a drill press but that would not be very precise and the hole HAS to be perpendicular to the grip surface.
Chris
simon109
05-07-2005, 12:34 PM
Hi,
No access to either of them :( . Couldnt get hold of the shop today have to try again Monday.
I'm using Futaba gear but don't have a switch yet, does it take the standard Futaba switch or the heavy duty type ?
Which one of these packs would you use with 3x9252's, 401/9254 ?
http://www.overlander.co.uk/detail.asp?categoryid=52&ID=315
http://www.overlander.co.uk/detail.asp?categoryid=52&ID=313 not sure what 4/5ths means
http://www.overlander.co.uk/detail.asp?categoryid=52&ID=394
http://www.overlander.co.uk/detail.asp?categoryid=52&ID=490
Thanks
Simon.
misskimo
05-07-2005, 03:59 PM
3rd one , out of those would be the best ,
do you have a mechine shop around , just carry the blades down there , and 10 minutes you will have it ready
Tony
a switch like the nitro birds is fine
simon109
05-08-2005, 05:51 PM
Cheers. Anyone know what 4/5FAUP means ? are these slightly smaller than AA's ?
I've installed my servos with the eylets and grommets, are either needed ? or just gromments ? just wondered as my 3dmp doesn't use any.
Thanks
Simon.