TAIL WAG

[hbomb]

I HAVE A RAPTOR 30 CONVERTED TO A 50 W/OS50 ,JR 500T GYRO.
I FLEW FOR THE FIRST TIME TOBAY AND NOTICED A WAGGING OF THE TAIL,NEVER HAD IT BEFORE,
ANY THOUGHTS ON WHAT IS CAUSING THIS.
THANKS FOR THE HELP

[WayneBrown]

Several possible causes for this;
gyro tape too soft, or loose.
Engine rich, coming on and off pipe, or surging.
Binding tail rotor linkage.
Incorrect gain setting on gyro.
gyro in incorrect mode.
Any of these, or a combination of more than one could cause this, and should give you a few places to look.
How much run time do you have on the engine? Have you tried adjusting the gain up or down? Did you lube the linkage and assure no binding during your build?

[Bluefuzzyone]

I have been having some up and down tail wag during the lower RPM's at spool-up. It seems to be smooth at the Mid range and top end. Is this caused from the same sources as just mentioned?

[hbomb]

HELLO WAYNE AND THANKS FOR THE HELP
THIS IS A NEW ENGINE,3RD TANK NOW,HAD A HYPER ON IT FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES TIL IT BLEW UP,BOUGHT THIS ONE SO I CAN FLY UNTIL I GET THE HYPER BACK.
MY GAIN IS SET AT 80%,WORK GREAT WITH OS32,THOGHT I MIGHT NEED MORE GAIN WITH THE 50 BUT WASNT SURE.
IM NOT RUNNING THE ENGINE WIDE OPEN,50% AT HOVER,AND ONLY 80,50 80 ON IDLE UP1.GYRO IS SECURE AND TAIL LINKAGE IS OK.

[WayneBrown]

Assuming you have a digital servo, check well for linkage bind or drag anywhere between servo and pitch sliders. It being the third tank, you may be going from two stroke, to four stroke slightly. This will aggravate the hell out of you until you lean it until it stays constant.


Bluefuzzy, it almost sounds like a bent feathering shaft, loose bushings, or loose blades if it is up and down while spooling up. try tightening your blades a bit more and make sure that they are straight by looking from the tip iof one, through the head to the tip of the other. A leading or lagging blade will easily cause this.

[Bluefuzzyone]

Thanks for the info Lamebird

I think it is the blades are to loose. They seem to be tight if I move them in one direction and loose in the other. I have just replaced the feathering shaft with a new one after a crash broke the rotors.

[WayneBrown]

Let me know how it turns out?

[Bluefuzzyone]

No flying here this weekend.......High winds, steady light rain with snow flurries forcast for Sunday and Monday. :(

[hbomb]

AFTER LOOKING AT IT AGAIN I FOUND A THE CONTROL ROD TO THE TAIL WAS CAUSING THE PROBLEM,HOW LONG SHOULD I RUN THE ENGINE RICH.

[WayneBrown]

I generally start to lean down after the third tank by 3-4 clicks until the backplate of the motor gets real warm to the touch (not hot). You should be able to hover for a couple minutes, set down and stop the blades, reach under and place a finger on the backplate of the motor for a two- three count without burning your finger.
With a new motor and heli, keep it as rich at mid throttle and hover and some forward flight, every so often 'punch it', wide open throttle flows more fuel/air through the motor, cooling it further. About 1 gallon is my break-in period, some go much less, some more.. It's your money but a longer break in cannot hurt.

[hbomb]

I flew yesterday and all went well ,kinda windy,did my first roll and flip.WOW!!!
A lot differant than doing them on the G3.The wind was changing directions constantly,It was throwing the bird around quite abit.The more rolls and flips I did the better they got.
I was wondering if the lighter paddles will make the rolls tighter or what.I have the stock paddles on it still,what would you suggest.
I really apriciate your help.

[Ivan]

lighter paddles definately give you quicker cyclic. The raptor paddles are a touch heavy, but will do ok, unless you want to really work it out. The KSJ paddles are very quick, but also very pitchy in forward flight. I am rather fond of V-paddles, they are very quick, and track very well in fast forward flight. Some like the Minature Aircraft 3D paddles. The best advice is to buy a set and try them. If you don't like them, then, hey! It's only money right?

As a side note, when I had a raptor, a friend of mine was using a router and a jug to cut the major portion of the paddles out, and I covered them with some heat shrink tubing that I think was meant for shovel handles, they were really quick and flew pretty well in fast forward flight. Just an idea.

[hbomb]

hello ivan thaks for the reply
i saw a post once somewhere that took old wood blades and cut sections out and made paddles with them,they said they worked really well,he drilled and tapped the end and used CA on the threads to make them strong,took over 50 lbs.to pull the threads,sounds strong enough.
i was considering v-blades,but heliproz was sold out.and didnt have any light weight paddles at all.sounds like a popular item.
how about adjusting to get more throw?as long as it doesnt bind,is there such a thing as too much cyclic pitch.

[WillJames]

Call Ray, www.raysheliresource.com for V-Blades and paddles. I bet he has some in stock.

[hbomb]

how about adjusting to get more throw?as long as it doesnt bind,is there such a thing as too much cyclic pitch
was this a dumb question
:oops: kinda sounds like one now

[sdixon747]

Not really a dumb question. Too much pitch, be it cyclic, collective, or a combination of the two, can and will stall the blades and / or paddles resulting in a decrease in performance.

Steve

[hbomb]

Thanks for the info Steve,when i built my raptor 30,i had too much pitch and when I would try and take off it would kill my rotor speed and fall like a rock.probly didnt have my throttle curve set up right either.
well thanks again for the reply