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ChasHeliCop
07-26-2008, 08:35 AM
I got the servo mount idea from BT, but I did find another walk-thru I listed in this thread, with some pictures I added.
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=80030
USNAviationjay
07-26-2008, 09:25 AM
i saw that too but still dont have the kind of servo mounting... mine are on the top the standard 3D style tail servo.
4 holes.. and so thanks but that doesnt help much.
I don't have access to any type of heavy tools to cut and drill metal.I need a simple solution that doesn't require heavy modification.
USNAviationjay
07-26-2008, 02:48 PM
OK! for engineering challenged peeps like me I found a servo that works fine.
HS-56HB has a vert mount that works perfectly with the V2 stock mount.
no mods required at all.
gives a VERY straight shot for the linkage as well.
for scale I can do without my super Digi servos.
this works fine.
warpspeed
07-26-2008, 08:42 PM
Good on ya! I too subscribe to the k.i.s.s. principle.
Now stuff her in there and get some piccies!!
Btw, I'm sure you guys have noticed how differently the little rex sounds inside her new clothes. I don't know if it's because I didn't bother with any foam around the openings or what, but mine has this low 'whomping' noise that almost sounds like the real deal.
Now if I could just find some mini napalm bombs......:Bang
USNAviationjay
07-28-2008, 11:11 AM
well heres what I did with it..
Nice looking! I wish i could get started on my project. But having a 13month old tugging on to my leg is not allowing me to start..:lol:
majuro15
07-30-2008, 11:48 PM
Two quick questions:
Where can I find the 335 and 350 main blades??? I have a 222 that those would be great on. I have the woodies 335 but don't like them.
Also, the 1/4" plugs that RB930 (i think) used to cover the access holes. Where did you get those? That is a great solution to maintaining these heli's and keeping them looking good!
RChristopher
07-31-2008, 12:03 AM
Rotor Tech 350 Blades
http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6356
Bob C.
cwstufft
07-31-2008, 01:02 AM
Here's mine. It got a lot of attention at Helis over Delaware. Chasis is a trex 450XL.
USNAviationjay
07-31-2008, 10:08 PM
man a little scared to run 350s... I know you said you have never had a problem but man.. that's a serious close tolerance.
maybe one day you're going to be out at one of the fields I can meet you and you can assist with my scale electronic setup so I can try them.
majuro15
07-31-2008, 11:38 PM
Thanks for the blades info, they are already on order!
RChristopher
08-01-2008, 12:58 PM
Ordered another set of 350's for myself also.
Bob C.
USNAviationjay
08-01-2008, 03:38 PM
Bob do you go to any of the local AMA parks on a regular basis bro?
I'd be really interested in picking up some of your scale expertise.
RChristopher
08-01-2008, 11:31 PM
I visit one of the fields in Houston, Tom Bass, from time to time, but as for scale - I'm just getting started. Check out the threads from Rodan, Copter Doctor, Super Hornet, etc. here at HeliFreak or Run Ryder for some great info.
Cheers
Bob C.
USNAviationjay
08-02-2008, 02:38 PM
yah but they arnt in Houston to actually see the bird and tell em what Im doing wrong with the radio and my curves and everything else..
I don't learn well from reading I'm a show me once type of learner..
I am struggling getting this bird to fly well.
The 3D guys I hang with think I'm on crack and dont really know what I'm talking about they set my curves so aggressive that it flys like crap on scale.
BlackTitanium
08-03-2008, 12:18 AM
yah but they arnt in Houston to actually see the bird and tell em what Im doing wrong with the radio and my curves and everything else..
I don't learn well from reading I'm a show me once type of learner..
I am struggling getting this bird to fly well.
The 3D guys I hang with think I'm on crack and dont really know what I'm talking about they set my curves so aggressive that it flys like crap on scale.
Here's what I recommend. I'm your Radio is a DX7.
Idle up 1 & 2 Throttle Curve: 100% flat.
You need a head speed of approximately 2900-3000 rpm. Install a pinion on your motor to get the desired head speed. Don' t be afraid of high head speed, get used to it.
If you want to fly scale, you're going to need the extra power to compensate for the fuselages added weight.
Don't forget to adjust your Gyro Sensitivity Rate to match the head speed.
If your ESC provides slow start, then set Normal Mode Throttle Curve to 100% flat.
No slow start, then 0-INH-100-100-100.
You'll want to start with +20% Expo on Aileron and Elevator. +25% Expo on the Rudder. Add more or less Expo to your liking.
This will make your flying smoother. Will make the heli less twitchy.
Also, you should open the back of your radio, and tighten the stick tension for left and right movement on both sticks.
USNAviationjay
08-03-2008, 10:34 AM
Ok I got most of that,
I thought we wanted a little less head speed for scale?
I kicked it down from the default 13T to 12T yesterday to reduce the headspeed from the stock hyper 3D HS to a little more scale based on comments in this and other scale threads.
I either want to get the longer 350 blades or a 5 bladed setup.
RChristopher
08-03-2008, 11:45 AM
As mentioned earlier in this lengthy thread I have a little bit of itermittent vibration, and I have been experimenting with curves that give me the least amount of vibration, but still good control of the ship. Now - that being said, I do use 350mm blades so this may not work well with other size blades.
In preparation for take off I startup in Norm - progress the throttle to approx. 50%, then go to stunt one. I do not typically fly the MD500E on really windy days or do aerobatics/3D with it. Pretty much full scale technique. The settings below are an attempt to have a moderate head speed, with the ability to reduce pitch below 50% without reducing throttle.
Throt Curve
Norm
L.....1......2......3......4.....EXP
0....40....70....87...100....On
Stunt 1
L....1.......2.....3......4.....EXP
70..Inh...70...87...100...On
Pitch Curve
Norm
L.....1........2......3........4......EXP
50..62.5...75...87.5...100....ON
Stunt1
L.....1........2......3........4......EXP
40...Inh....75.....Inh...100.....On
All I can say is this currently works for me. Use at your own risk.
Cheers
Bob C.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/Bench.jpg
BlackTitanium
08-03-2008, 11:55 AM
Ok I got most of that,
I thought we wanted a little less head speed for scale?
I kicked it down from the default 13T to 12T yesterday to reduce the head speed from the stock hyper 3D HS to a little more scale based on comments in this and other scale threads.
I either want to get the longer 350 blades or a 5 bladed setup.
The head speed and Expo are the two keys to scale flying.
Too low of a head speed and your heli will fly like a pig, and will be difficult to control.
The Expo settings allows you soften the Heli's response to stick input, and fly smoother and scale like. This tames down the jerkiness that is induced by the higher head speed. Generally, more expo for scale, less expo for 3D.
The 350mm blades are intended for use on heli's with the longer tail boom, i.e., the Outrage G5. Personally, I would not risk it. Use the 335mm blades.
RChristopher
08-03-2008, 12:16 PM
I have been using the 350mm blades for 6 months now on this ship with NO problem!!!!!! They were used due to the PIG like nature of this fuse and frame combination, and to keep the RPM lower. As long as you DO NOT try excessive manuvers and are carefull with your control inputs, per scale, tail strikes are not an issue. The stiffness of the blades would cause the ship to flip before striking the tail rotor. I tested this prior to installation as noted earlier in this thread and the amount of back stick required to move the disc to the tail rotor region was WAY more than a ship could take in flight without flipping first. Your choice.
Prime thing is NO EXCESSIVE/ABRUPT control input, SMOOOOOOOOOTH control input.
As for Expo - I put enough to gently round out the edges, but not compromise the response. When I need quick reaction to an input I want the ship to be there with me.
Bob C.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/MD500EFlying2.jpg
USNAviationjay
08-03-2008, 01:19 PM
Ok Bob used those curves even with the little 325 pro woodies I did notice how docile she is now.
seems alot more stable.
Yah BT that's what I keep asking how peeps run the 350s without eating tail rotor.
but there are at least 5 peeps in this thread saying they are fantastic if you tame down like Bob did.
hes been saying the 350s rock for 7 months or so now.
I'm so close to just buying the scale 5 blade head I've read here and on RR that the LH head doesn't even require extra stabilization.
Really want to try it.
RChristopher
08-03-2008, 01:29 PM
Regarding the Lightning Multi Blade heads, do a search of the HeliFreak and RunRyder forums. There have been numerous issues with their components. Buyer beware!!!!!!
Bob C.
USNAviationjay
08-03-2008, 01:31 PM
yah Bob, but nearly all of those complaints and problems are with the 500-600 sized heads.
the 450s seem to be the only product they arn't having issues with.
USNAviationjay
08-03-2008, 04:11 PM
In flight around the garden
RChristopher
08-03-2008, 04:12 PM
Yup, the 450 size does appear to have a better track record, but I am still a bit wary of them. I can't stand companies that have such a low concern about the quality of the product supplied to their customers.
Be sure to take into account the effect of multi blade dynamics in regard to tail rotor control. Depending on your head speed the two blade tail rotor may not supply enough control.
Good luck!!
Bob C.