TRex 450 SE nV2 to 500E Makeover ...

[RChristopher]

OK, latest nonsense ...

Painted the gear tubes, right ... wrong. I wasn't quite ready to commit the gear layout, but I did want the tubes painted, soooooo ... HEAT SHRINK TUBING - YEA!! More durable too.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/MD500Side1.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/MD500FrontSide800.jpg

Later

Bob C.

[mdflys4fun]

Hi guys, If anyone needs pictures of a 500E I went to a airport here and I was able to take 130 pictures of every inch on the bird. here are just a few. alls I ask is give me a few to send them and ask me in a email for what your looking for and I will work on just that.

[mdflys4fun]

Working on Nav lights in the skids, here's what i have so far. It was very easy to do just need to get the wires up. I may look into making new sides with a hole in it for the wires. I wont know what I am doing till I get the kit. I may paint 1/2 of the lens to make it look a little more scale. First 2 pictures are the real deal.

[warpspeed]

Awesome work guys! Bob yours really has turned out well, but ditch the baby blue skid nuts, will ya?:lol: Love the heat shrink idea, think I'll do the same to mine.

One little note for those of you considering a 500E: I don't know if they're all like this but the paint on the military version is less than ideal. With the front 'hatch' attached you can clearly see a white seam-nothing a little touch up paint won't fix (assuming I can find a match) but the perfectionists out there are going to be disappointed.

[RChristopher]

Yea, I know what you mean about the skid nuts. I am looking for some black ones that will fit the 7/32" tube. No luck so far. I will probably be hitting the LHS/hardware store and see what they have. I have also been considering painting the lower portion of the skid where the pipe slides through. It should also be black. But I am concerned about it flaking off, so I'll have to ponder that one.

Cheers

Bob C.

A couple of yard shots from an attempt at doing a video.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/Image4.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/HavingFun.jpg

[767drvr]

Has anyone received this fuselage ? It doesn't seem to be the Align one and I don't see it under the Heliartist line either ? Thinking of getting one !

[SimonV6]

As this is my first scale heli, what are the best throttle and pitch curves to run? I take it iwill need to up the power and pitch a little for the extra weight?
What are curves are you guys flying with?

thanks


Simon


looks real nice btw Bob C. :)
those skids do make a nice difference :)

[RChristopher]

Regarding my system setup, this is what works for me. Please note main blades are 350mm instead of the usual 325mm. These provide a bit peppier performance. Swash/DR setting have been adjusted accordingly. I do not want too high of a head speed due to vibration consideration. These setting may not be optimal for others depending on their setup. My particular style is: D/R on, run up to 50% in Norm, then switch to ST1 prior to lift off. Remainder of flight is ST1.

(Due to web posting format of information may not be as neat as intended)

Radio: DX7 - AR7000
ECCPM Servos: (3) JR DS285
Gyro: JR 7703D w/JR DS3400 Tail Servo
Battery: FP EVO25 2500
Motor/BEC: Stock (450 SEnV2)
Main Blades: Rotor Tech 350mm Symmetrical Blade
Tail Rotor /Hub: Carbon Blades with RCT-450 CW/Balanced Tail Grip Assembly
Pinion: 12T
Blade Max Pitch: +- 11 (Last check)

Radio Settings:

Dual Rate Auto Pos1
Aileron Exp +20% D/R 80%
Elevator Exp +20% D/R 80%
Rudder Exp +50% D/R 80%

Swash Mix
Aileron: 48%
Elevator: 48%
Pitch: 55%

Throttle Curves
Mode L 1 2 3 4 EXP
Norm 0 48 70 87 100 On
ST1 100 85 75 85 100 On
ST2 100 Inh 75 Inh 100 Off

Pitch Curves
Mode L 1 2 3 4 EXP
Norm 46 Inh 50 Inh 100 On
ST1 0 Inh 50 Inh 100 Off
ST2 0 Inh 50 Inh 100 Off

Regards

Bob C.

PS 767drvr - I have seen posts regarding that kit as being from HeliArtist. Same as Align product.

[SimonV6]

Thanks for that :)

Simon

[crazyerick]

Thanks Bob,

The settings are most useful. I also had to dial in some expo and DR as the extra weight + a twitchy heli does not go. I'm still playing with the CG of mine. I felt she was still a bit tail heavy so I added 30grams more weight (in addition to my previous weight) in the nose. Haven't flow her yet but hopefully she will be better in forward flight.

http://crazyerick.com/llpf/gallery/IMG_9428-01.jpg

I'm also thinking of getting one of those EVO 25's. Think with the extra weight of the fuse she draws a bit more amps so keen to give her something stronger in terms of battery.

Hopefully will have a vid of mine next time we fly.

- Erick

[BlackTitanium]

Hey Bob,

Just regarding the flybar, does she spool up fine? I have vissions of mine hitting the top of the fuse.

Thanks for the reply above.

- Erick

She spools up fine, but I do level the flybar before I spool up.
I've never had the flybar hit the canopy in flight.
I have not attempted to do any loops, which would probably put the flybar thru the canopy.
This bird is definitely not for 3D flying.

HeliArtist Hughes 500D

QXq6IyobzVI

[CT4]

Thought I would show my bird off. Wanted something different. I found this military camo on a Columbian 500. All I have to do now is work out how to make the weapons. As for flying as long as you put 3 degrees forward tilt on the main shaft and get everything as far up front as possible she flies great. Oh also make sure that you have 1-2 degrees of down pitch on the horizontal stabiliser or it will pitch up as you transit to forward flight I found that by placing the ESC under the moter (outrunner) it keeps very cool!

[BlackTitanium]

CT4,
That's a very nice looking paint job! :thumbup:

[JaggedEdge]

very cool and clean. thanks for posting all this info and pics up. :thumbup:

[kingkahuna]

Bad "A#@"

[RChristopher]

Looking good guys!!

Bob C.

[RChristopher]

OK, door lines ... I have stared at this situation long enough, do I leave them as is or outline them. I have tried permanent pens, no good. So now it's the thin line tape. Ugh, curves suck.

One door done. I will contemplate now if this worth continuing.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/Lines1.jpg

Cheers

Bob C.

[turbine50]

Bob, I got the vids up: http://www.youtube.com/user/turbine50

[RChristopher]

You da Man Greg!!! Thanks a bunch!!! :)

Have you gotten yours yet?

Bob C.

A couple of short vid's by turbine50 of the MD500E ...

aR9tvCLFa_8

Ty7B0YMWo5U

[turbine50]

Yes It looks awesome! I need to finish up something else before I start on this though. And work has been really busy so hobby time has been cut short...

[CT4]

RChristopher
I have found that a 6B or softer pencil works well for door outlines. The main problem with tape is it is too defined, if you think about it the only reason you see a door outline is that it is a shadow cast on the paint, a graphite pencil leaves the colour there just males it darker. The other method is to use a marker pen but get a grey one ( Pentel for graphic designers) from an art shop this works really well

[RChristopher]

I agree totaly!! But, at this point I am adding panel lines to an assembled fuze. I have researched using pens/markers and there are a couple of issues. 1) Being able to lay straight/curved lines smoothly, and 2) fixing them so they do not smudge.

I would appreciate any pointers or links to area's of enlightenment, where I might learn the tricks of detailing.

Here is a shot of the 500 with tape on two doors. I am not very pleased with this.


http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/Lines2.jpg


Onward through the fog.

Bob C.

[SimonV6]

Here is a pic of the a very similar helicopter :)
Simon

[CT4]

Bob
I can see why the lines are too defined. If you use the grey pen and fill in the moulded panel line don't worry if you go over the edge. Then get an old piece of smooth cloth an wrap this tight around your finger, damp it with methylated sprits and wipe the excess off, it takes a bit of practice but it does work, if you find that you do not have enough control with your finger wrap a piece of balsa with the cloth. As the marker is in an indent in the fuselage and there is no fuel there is no problem about having to fix it there. Remember that the lines are not perfect on the full size helicopter. It has to look good in the air, we have a habit of trying to make it perfect when we are viewing it at 2 inches.....life isn't perfect! If you were looking at a full sized helicopter in the air the same relative size as your model the full size would be 400-500 feet away. Dave Platt an American master modeller used to paint all of his finished models with a light coat of clear that had a little bit of grey paint added, this gave the effect of atmospheric haze and made the model look far more realistic. I know that you do not want to make your new shinny pride and joy dull, but just try this on the panel lines it works a treat.
Bruce

[Gra55h0pper]

I'm also building one and went through the same considerations on yes or no putting panel lines on. I opted to do so. Even though "from 2 inches" it looks like "too much" (somewhat fake) I have the feeling it will look better in the air than without the panel lines. I would like to see pics of the grey pen approach though.
I've attached before/after pictures of my fuse with panel lines