TRex 450 SE nV2 to 500E Makeover ...

[RChristopher]

Thanks CT4 for the description. I am acquainted with the process, and considered it for this project, but if your 500 fuse is similar to mine, the grooved panel lines are shallow and inconsistent. The front doors in particular loose their groove around the top front edge. So trying to get a residual deposit after wiping is not working. Maybe a more skilled hand might have better luck.

Looking good Gra55h0pper.

I am going to try the tape again, but with the width at around 1/32", or 1/64" if I can strip it that narrow.

Bob C.

[Gra55h0pper]

Bob -- Great thread!!! Very cool bird!!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thought I'd share some other experiences so far during my build using a Trex 450 V2:

- My Futaba 9650 didn't fit in it's regular "on the boom" configuration. I relocated it to under the boom (see pic) in a confguration I found elsewhere on the web. I created two CF brackets sacrifycing the tail fin which is not needed anymore after the conversion (not for a while anyway... :D). It's a bit of work but it works great!

- The elevator servo (a Hitec HS-65MG in my case) will touch the fuse unless you put the mechanics far upfront in the fuselage. Even after mounting it on the inside of the CF frame (I had it on the outside originally) and swapping the ball to the other side of the servo horn I found this to be the case. Putting the mechanics more forward in the fuse was too much of a compomise in my opinion so I went looking for a better solution. I considered moving the complete servo forward in the frame by about half a case length but opted against that as I don't like sawing or "dremeling" in the frame with everything attached and I certainly didn't want to completely disassemble my V2.
The solution I came up with is to put the servo more towards the inside of the frame by putting spacers in (see pic). In order to still get a -close to- "straight shot" on the link to the swash, I made the servo horn thicker by glueing part of another horn against it on the inside. Also this was a bit of work but it works great!

- Having done this, I find that when putting the mechanics in as per the provided "height retainers" (7 layers of ply) the tail rudder control rod will rub against the bottom of the fuselage tail boom. One possibility is to modify the tail rod to a flexible one (as per the description earlier in this thread) but I think I'm going to simply add two layers of lite-ply to the height retainers to put the mechanics higher in the fuse. Besides not having to change the tail control rod, an added advantage to this is that there will be more clearance between the flybar and the top of the fuse.

That's where I am at this point. After mounting the mechs in the fuse, next and final step will be to add some decals ("Gra55h0pper helicopters" :D) and then she'll be ready to fly! :) :) :)

[Gra55h0pper]

I am going to try the tape again, but with the width at around 1/32", or 1/64" if I can strip it that narrow.

FYI, the trim tape I used is "pre-stripped" at 1/32'' (made by Pactra, comes on a roll with different widths)

[RChristopher]

Great info Gra55h0pper. I could only find 1/4" wide trim tape at the auto parts shop :mad: so a strip'n I will go. :(

[CT4]

Bob
I have the Align / Heliart body as well. As modeled my heli on an older military one so I am not looking for perfecton. Just a thought, if the molded lines are not too clean you could use a gun checkering tool ot clean them up. The other thing is go to your local sign shop and get them to cut a series of thin strips on some vinal for you, you could try a mid / dark grey. I have seen that used and it works well. Hope that may be of some help with the need for thin stripes

[Gra55h0pper]

So I was having a heck of a time test fitting the mechanics getting things to properly line up. After a lot of puzzling I concluded the floor in my fuse was installed at an angle!?!? :arggg: (see pic).

I'm going to have to shim things to get the main shaft to exit the fuse at a straight angle...

This build is turning out to be a bit more of a challenge than I thought it would be... but it keeps me off the street... :D

[RChristopher]

Yup, I used nylon washers placed under the blocks as needed.

Bob C.

[Gra55h0pper]

Interesting, some room for improvement for Align I guess...
I'd need many more washers though. I think I'm going to sand a shim as I want to raise the mechanics in the fuse anyway (by about 5 mm).

[CT4]

While its frustrating, for $110 (our cost in Australia) these represent amazing value for money. I can not even buy the raw materials for that let alone make it to the standard these are supplied to. Good thing with this thread is it points out the problems and so helps people following us to get it right. Love to see the end results with the tape Bob, post some pics.

Bruce

[warpspeed]

If your hand is steady enough the trick I use is to follow the outline with a brand new #11 blade then use a water based paint to fill the "cut." Because I'm anal I'll do a quick mask job on both sides of the cut before applying paint but it's really not necessary as it cleans up well.
I think CT4's got a good point-up close it may look like too much, but that pic looks great to me!

[RChristopher]

Here is a quick shot of 1/32" tape lines. I like it a bit better. Now to finish the rest.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/ThinLine.jpg

Also, on a little different note, I tried something last night I had been thinking of and it seemed to work fairly well. I applied a very thin layer/film of clear silicone to the exposed flange face of the nose cap. The intent was to dampen the vibration between fuse and nose cap. I could hear this as a rather hollow hum when run up to flight speed. A quick test flight this morning and it seemed to lessen the hum.

Onward ...

Bob C.

[Blusaber]

Hi guys

After checking everywhere for this body everyday for the last two months I finally found one in stock today and ordered it . This will be my first try at scale but I love the looks of this bird,. Thanks for all the tips and pics provided in this thread.

Gary

[turbine50]

sylvian1975 on ebay sells them and he is one of the best people I have ever dealt with on there, and he's in Hong Kong. He also has or can get other colors than what he has listed, even unpainted ones. Just ask...

[RChristopher]

We'll be waiting for some pic's Gary!

Later

Bob C.

[mdflys4fun]

I think they are worth it, LOOKS GREAT! what are you using?

[SimonV6]

Got mine airbourne today....got some 1/64" grey pin stripe on order for the door outline :)
will put up more pics when it gets done :)

Simon

[RChristopher]

Man she looks GREAT Simon!! Looking forward to pics of the gray pinstripe.

Bob C.

[crazyerick]

Great one Simon. I flew mine on Saturday and was having a blast.

[DRSHeli]

I have been following this thread with great interest. Awesome info. I just received my Align 500E from this vendor: http://www.toysonics.com/product_info.php?products_id=882&osCsid=f0bac542ad18eb231ca8eec2856d090c

Service was good and the fuse arrived in great condition.

Thanks for all the great info. I can't wait to get started.

Don S.

[mdflys4fun]

Has anyone had any luck with "Sharpie ultra fine" permanent markers?

[RChristopher]

Welcome to the group Don. Keep us up on progress and post some pics.

As for myself mdflys4fun, I would like to use the fine line markers if I had a steadier hand. A template might help, maybe pinstripe tape.

Had a bit of airtime today at the field and the 1/32" panel lines look fine in the air.

Bob C.

[crazyerick]

Here is a little vid of mine flying on the weekend:

http://www.llpf.co.za/llpf/video/hughes500d.avi

http://www.youtube.com/v/NcISQiE9P9I

[RChristopher]

At this moment HeliProz is indicating they have stock of the Align 500E body. The ad is for the red tail version. I'm sure they won't last long.

Looking good there crazyerick!!

Bob C.

[crazyerick]

Thanks Bob,

Would have been cool if we could have flown them at the same field ;-)
Thanks again for your help, I'm really loving my baby.

[SimonV6]

looks very good crazyerick :)


Simon