TRex 450 SE nV2 to 500E Makeover ...

[ObiDon]

Thanks for the support guys. I'm fairly new to heli's and I didn't know that the CG wasn't as critical as it is on planes. I'll try removing some of the weight from the nose and see how it goes.

I'm running a V2 with an Align 3S, 2100 16C pack through a CC35 to a stock 430xl motor with the 12 tooth pinion. I have the 325 carbon blades that came with the V2 kit but I'm running the the 325 woodies.

What's everyone else running? Have you had to put any weight in the front of the canopy? If so, how much?

Cheers,

Don

[Gra55h0pper]

First flights: http://www.youtube.com/v/vtkj9mR6724

:D :D :D

[helichoper]

I also had the problem of the support blocks delaminating but luckily found this out with the mod i did to install the mechanics,1 block came apart in 3 places and the other in 1 so i split the blocks and glued them with epoxy and high strength filler as well as doing a coating of it all over the outside of the reassembled and glued blocks,here is some picks of the mod i did to install the mechanics they now just slide in and are retained from moving by a front support.All that is needed is ice cream sticks constructed with epoxy and high strength filler-carefully placement is required because once glued with epoxy they wont be going any were.

[BlackTitanium]

Obidon,

First position your Lipo as far forward as possible.
And then attach the lead weights as far forward on the canopy nose as possible to achieve CG.

CG on a heli does matter. Otherwise you will be fighting the heli's tendency to drop the tail.

[BlackTitanium]

Obidon,

When I first built my Hughes 500D (http://www.heliartist.com/product_Hughes500D.html), I used the 12T pinion, with the stock 430XL motor.
The Heli was way underpowered with the added weight of the fuselage.

I installed the 13T pinion, and it dramatically improved the flying performance.
I also installed full paddle weights and 335mm carbon rotor blades (http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=802320) for increased stability.

I currently fly with a CC35 ESC, Neumotor 1107/2Y (http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/Heli%20Motors.html) with a 15T pinion, Gorilla Gear paddles (http://www.rchover.com/inc/sdetail/50175) with full weights.

[Gra55h0pper]

CG on a heli does matter. Otherwise you will be fighting the heli's tendency to drop the tail.

I agree CG on a heli matters. Just not as much as it does on an airplane where it needs to be within 1/2 an inch or so. On a heli, it's certainly nice to have the CG over the rotor-center (or slightly in front of it) and I always strive to do so (especially for a 3D heli). However, when it's between having it a little off-set and adding weight, my choice is to leave the CG a little bit off-set. Especially on a scale bird. Just make sure to add some forward trim on the Tx to prevent having to fight the tendency for the heli to drop the tail.

On getting the CG right, note that it of course helps to install the mechanics as far backward in the fuse as possible. This may require moving the elevator inward in the frame though in order to get it to clear the fuse.

[Gra55h0pper]

I also installed full paddle weights and 335mm blades for increased stability.

BlackTitanium -- Cool ship! :D

I'm flying with the weights also. Besides increased stability, I find it gives the flight a more scale look appearance also.

Did you notice a lot of difference going to 335mm blades? I might consider doing the same to bring the headspeed down to more scale like speeds.

[ObiDon]

I just wanted to emphasize the need to beef up those standoffs. ...
Bob C.

Thanks to this thread I glassed mine before installing. However, I didn't get all the way down to the last layer, the one that attaches to the frame. When I crashed, I mean had an "unscheduled" landing, one of the spacers de-laminated. Without any modification, those stock mounts/spacers are no good. I second Bob... beef em up!

Don

[Blusaber]

Obidon,


I currently fly with a CC35 ESC, Neumotor 1107/2Y with a 15T pinion, gorilla gear paddles with full weights.

Hey Kip

It was your vids on you tube that made me get interested in Getting the 500E. I enjoyed your Jet ranger also. Good job . Not sure how long ago I saw them but they did lite the fire

Gary

[Blusaber]

First flights: http://www.youtube.com/v/vtkj9mR6724

:D :D :D

Excellent Enjoyed watching that

Gary

[BlackTitanium]

Did you notice a lot of difference going to 335mm blades?

More stability, control and lift power. They are Marik E-Series Carbon 335 (http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=802320).

[RChristopher]

350mm work pretty dang well too! Same benefits.

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=120&products_id=5926

Bob C.

[ObiDon]

...
I installed the 13T pinion, and it dramatically improved the flying performance.
I also installed full paddle weights and 335mm blades for increased stability...

Thanks for the tip BT... I'll give that a try!

Don

[Snoopy6]

Thanks to this thread I glassed mine before installing. However, I didn't get all the way down to the last layer, the one that attaches to the frame. When I crashed, I mean had an "unscheduled" landing, one of the spacers de-laminated. Without any modification, those stock mounts/spacers are no good. I second Bob... beef em up!

Don

I may be beating a dead horse here, but I think it cannot be stressed enough to "beef up" the mounts for the Trex frame. I took a little different approach; I used a very thin (1.3mm) piece of plywood veneer affixed to both sides of the mounts with "gorilla glue" (clamped under pressure of course). This is the point: after the glue had dried and the clamps removed, I observed that the glue had migrated all the way to the inside of the frames! This tells me there is very little contact between frame laminations. Align needs to address this problem; as reported in this forum, if the frames come apart during flight, things could get exciting very quickly. The poorly constructed frames are a real negative to an otherwise very nice scale fuselage.

[warpspeed]

Hmm, I did the thin ply trick too. Hope it holds up. What concerns me more are those tiny little screws that mount frame to fuse-even CA hardening the holes doesn't inspire much confidence. If there were space I'd use a nut and bolt, but as it is I think I'll just go with larger screws.
Anyway, I still haven't tracked down the correct size guns but it's gettin' there. I'll get pics up later today....

[BlackTitanium]

I just zip tied the frame to the fuselage, and have never had any problems with the install.
It's also makes it a to easier to disassemble for maintenance.

[warpspeed]

Duh! That covers maintenance AND the delamination issue, plus no contortions getting to the rear screws. The best ideas are always the simple ones!
Just out of curiousity did you mount your heli that far forward for CG reasons?

[BlackTitanium]

It is mounted as far back as it will go.
I mount the battery as forward as possible and added four 7 gram lead weights in the nose foe CG.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39061&d=1203305171

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39063&stc=1&d=1203443839

[warpspeed]

Wow I didn't think it would be THAT tail heavy! Thanks for the pics BlackTi. Mine will fit considerably farther back but I've been so busy wiring the lights I haven't gotten around to checking balance yet.
For such a simple build there sure is a lot of fiddly things to mess around with!

[crazyerick]

Hi gents,

I added the Zip ties as well, because there is still a chance the screws will break loose with hard forward or backward movement, unless you going to add 90deg supports to the mounting block. I was not confident, even with extra epoxy on the blocks. The zip ties also makes it feel more secure.

I had to add about 80-100grams of weight. She is still a tad tail heavy but managable. I also found the CG was a bit high. So I put my receiver on the battery tray and mounted it horizontally at the bottom of the frame (where the receiver use to be). This seemed to help in FF especially in hard banked turns.

Looking good guys!

[warpspeed]

Erick, what are you using for batteries? With 80-100 grams to play with it seems that a bigger pack may serve you better. May as well put that extra weight to work!
I was really surprised at just how heavy the tail assembly is-until that was on she balanced perfectly. Looks like it's ply covered with lead sheeting! I'm going to try balancing it out with a not-so-scale floodlight on the front.

[Snoopy6]

Blackti, was looking at your pics (post # 168) and was curious as to why there is only one pole of the deans connector hooked up on your battery. I'm new to all this , so help educate me, please.:o

[BlackTitanium]

Blackti, was looking at your pics (post # 168) and was curious as to why there is only one pole of the deans connector hooked up on your battery. I'm new to all this , so help educate me, please.:o

Just a safety measure to keep the battery lead from possibly shorting against anything.

[Snoopy6]

Great tip! I'll use that one for sure.....always looking for things to cut down on mishaps. I have to say it again, this is a great place to hang out and learn. Thanks!

[BlackTitanium]

Mine will fit considerably farther back but I've been so busy wiring the lights I haven't gotten around to checking balance yet.


I don't know how yours would fit considerably farther back?
The anti rotation bracket limits how far back the frame can be mounted.