TRex 450 SE nV2 to 500E Makeover ...

[warpspeed]

Well, 'considerably' was probably too strong.:o I guess I was basing it on where the front of your frames exited the fuse as opposed to how far in they would go. I've got pics that just need to be uploaded, but if I place the ARB in the same position as yours the vertical part of the top of the frame is even with the fuse.

Sorry, kinda hard to describe. I REALLY need to get those pics up!

I think the only reason it will go back that far is because aside from moving the elevator servo into the frame I've got the tail servo mounted vertically on L-shaped brackets, and the little 3154 will slide back into the tail of the fuselage.

[warpspeed]

Ack! Scratch that! It just dawned on me that yours is a V2. I'm using a V1-maybe that accounts for the difference?

[warpspeed]

Ok, here's a pic that better illustrates what I meant. As you can see the top part of the frames are flush(ish) with the fuse, and while you can't see it in the pic the ARB is about 10mm from the back of the cutout.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/scootermonkey/500E006.jpg

[Art Vandelay]

First flights: http://www.youtube.com/v/vtkj9mR6724

:D :D :D
Gra55h0pper...nice 500e. Is the field in your video in Almaden? I've seen this field but don't know if its private or a club?...Any info on the site would be great.

[SimonV6]

Man she looks GREAT Simon!! Looking forward to pics of the gray pinstripe.

Bob C.

Finally got round to adding the grey 1/64" pinstripe, think I need a steadier hand though lol ;)

[mdflys4fun]

Dose anyone have a copy of the Instructions that they can send to me for the 500? I think I might have a idea for a better mounting setup but I need to take a look at the Instructions. Please email to me at mdflys4fun@comcast.net

Thanks

Mike

PS SimonV6 she looks great, can you please tell me what kind of pinstrip you used? Thanks

[BlackTitanium]

Here you go!
This is the install guide for the HeliArtist 500D.

[SimonV6]

PS SimonV6 she looks great, can you please tell me what kind of pinstrip you used? Thanks


It was "Detail Master grey 1/64" Pin striping tape", I got it from "Atomic Hobbies n Games" on Ebay :)


Simon

[Snoopy6]

It was "Detail Master grey 1/64" Pin striping tape", I got it from "Atomic Hobbies n Games" on Ebay :)


Simon
Simon, that looks great! From the distance the photo was taken the job appears to be perfect. I'll have to get some of that on order.

Joe

[Snoopy6]

Anybody following the instructions suggestion to leave the rear door windows out? Is heat build up a problem?

Joe

[RChristopher]

Lookin good there Simon. Those curves are tough aren't they?!

Joe - all of my side windows are open. I have not taken a reading, but since we have now enclosed the motor in a shell, plus made the motor work harder by lifting more weight, my bet is it needs all the cooling it can get.

Cheers

Bob C.

[Snoopy6]

Lookin good there Simon. Those curves are tough aren't they?!

Joe - all of my side windows are open. I have not taken a reading, but since we have now enclosed the motor in a shell, plus made the motor work harder by lifting more weight, my bet is it needs all the cooling it can get.

Cheers

Bob C.
Roger that Bob. Just wasn't sure if any weird air currents would be set into motion or if drag would be increased with windows out.

[mdflys4fun]

OK I am at a little bit of a loss because I do not have the body yet but here's what I am thinking. To me it looks like they are using the same spot to mount the trex to the body as the skids so my idea is to drill a hole through the base plywood up through the spacers and through the bottom of the plastic (in my case) base of the trex. Take a hex head bolt and washer(or small flat plywood square) bring it down through the base of the trex, spacers, and base plywood to a blind nut. Add a little blue loc tight to it and I think you'll have something that won't come apart. So that's my idea, what do you guys think? After all, ideas put men on the moon! also take a look at the pictures I think you can get to it with a long wrench(longer then what i am showing) and be able to get to the hex head with the body on. I think I will use a blind nut and hex head for the other mount to as I like that better then a screw and I can use loc tight.

Dear Santa, please tell the elves to put a rush on the 500 bodies for me.

Mike

[BlackTitanium]

mdflys4fun,

Skip steps 6 & 8, and just use zip ties to mount the frame to the fuselage.
It really is that simple. Give it a try!

If you're not satisfied with the zip tie mount method, after test flying your heli, then by all means resort to what you feel is the better mouse trap.

[RChristopher]

After a fair bit of use, I agree the zip ties, or cable ties, work very well to make sure your 450 frame stays attached to the 500 ply base. In my case I use the bolting in the front and screws in the back to locate the 450 frame position, and keep it from moving around. But the ties have turned out to be an easy and secure way of making sure everything stays attached as it's supposed to be.

Bob C.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/n50482/Helis/Ties.jpg

[Blusaber]

Anybody following the instructions suggestion to leave the rear door windows out? Is heat build up a problem?

Joe
Hi
I first flew it (7min) with out the windows and my batt would be around 110* now with the windows in it comes back at around 127* motor and esc don't feel any warmer to me. I just don't like the looks with out the windows I did not put the top ones in yet for screw driver access. I did use clear silicone to mount them if I change my mind

Gary

[warpspeed]

Hopefully you guys that have finished and flown yours haven't had to do this yet, but I'm wondering if it's possible to change the main shaft without removing the fuse.
I ask because last night when I spooled her up for the first time I noticed the shaft wobbling-Yes, I've been flying it like that for awhile because I'm such a cheap s.o.b. but had forgotten all about it while installing the fuse.
Anyway it looks like it's possible. (That's me being Mr. Optimistic-but with my luck I'm probably looking at another complete teardown. ugh)

Edit: Nevermind. Yes indeedy it IS possible, just adds a few extra minutes....

[Snoopy6]

Hi
I first flew it (7min) with out the windows and my batt would be around 110* now with the windows in it comes back at around 127* motor and esc don't feel any warmer to me. I just don't like the looks with out the windows I did not put the top ones in yet for screw driver access. I did use clear silicone to mount them if I change my mind

Gary
Gary, I like the idea of having the windows in also. Here is one of my ideas..... I thought I could cut a rectangle out of the bottom of the nose piece and glue a piece of window screen in so air would flow in the bottom and out the top creating sufficient cooling.

[Blusaber]

Gary, I like the idea of having the windows in also. Here is one of my ideas..... I thought I could cut a rectangle out of the bottom of the nose piece and glue a piece of window screen in so air would flow in the bottom and out the top creating sufficient cooling.

Hi

The verdict is still out for me if it's running to hot with the windows in. For now just going to keep monitoring the battery. Your idea may be a cool (pun intended) if it does not weaken the nose section to much.

Gary

[crazyerick]

I was thinking of getting a Scorpion 2221-8 motor. Aparently they run much cooler and same if not more oomph than the 430XL.

[Gra55h0pper]

I've installed the rear windows also. Only problem I have is that the pilot complained of lack of ventilation so I installed ventilation openings in the front windows using pin-strip tape... :D :D

I monitored my battery (by touch, not by using a temp sensor) but really didn't feel a lot of difference with the windows installed. I think it may be because I'm using a Thunderpower Extreme V2 2200 mAh which can deliver many more amps than needed for scale flight. I did notice the motor got warmer though (I use the standard Align motor which comes with the V2), but not really hot so I think I'm OK.

[Newflee]

Hi all,
I just got a 500 e body and have a question. My ply formers inside the fuse are very slightly slanted to one side as some of you have also indicated. This affects the installed position of the landing gear legs.What have you all done to get a level stance?

[Gra55h0pper]

Newflee -- Shim it or use washers... See posts #81, 82, 83, 111, 112 and 125 (2nd picture) in this thread.
It's painful that the floor seems to be slanted in many fuses. Mine was way off...
Anyway, though it's a bit of a pain and puzzle, with a bit of work and trial&error you can always correct for it.

[mdflys4fun]

Gra55h0pper nice job on the windows, I was going to do the same for the guys in the rear seat. Anyone know where we can find some wire cutters or antennas?

[warpspeed]

Finally got pics. This is one of those cases where it looks better if you're not too close.:o Align really did a lousy job with it, but I'll just pretend this one's seen a lot of combat. You can see the white seam, and while it's not obvious in these pics the front canopy 'frame' is offset from center.
The lights are just for orientation-from what I can tell they're about as far from scale as you can get. Still have a lot of detail work to do.....

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/scootermonkey/500E010.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/scootermonkey/500E011.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/scootermonkey/500E013.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/scootermonkey/500E016.jpg