FURY EXTREME BUILD

[Scooterpilot]

Hi All,

I just purchased a Fury Extreme Kit and I'm about ready to start building it.

Does anyone have any tips?

Should I just build the kit as is without any mods?

Thanks

Chuck

[NolanManley]

Some things I can think of is LOCK-TIGHT everything that doesn't have a fiber-lock nut on it. As your familiar with the Hirobos and Raptors, they have plenty of plastic to hold screws, but not the MA stuff.
Your going to have to Dial indicate the fan on the engine to make sure of a smooth running heli. And make sure to balance the fan before mounting it. I haven't seen one yet that was perfect out of the box. Check out the videos linked in my signature. There's one for most of this stuff.

Found this on Fan balance from DavidH. http://www.helifreak.com/about1417.html&highlight=building+tips

I would not bottom out the TR drive shaft in one coupler end before sliding the boom on the heli. Just get it started in the coupler good. I had mine, (Spectra G) not hook-up with the other coupler from bottoming it out in the first coupler and it started to slip in flight. It had friction turning the end of the shaft and showed it's ugly head with load.

Pay close attention to which way the holes go in the rubber dampners in the fan.

How about some other guys!!! Got to be more that the few things I remembered. :D

[Joel Mann]

as you put the tail boom in the front trans, I always lightly sand the end and ca it in...make sure tail rotor is lined up.. Take your time and post any questions...good luck.

[NolanManley]

Good one Joel.

One-Way Bearing> Maybe others here can relate if I'm correct but on the Spectra G it says how to fill the one-way sprag bearing with thin oil like Triflow. Not sure if that's the same on Extremes. But if you just, play with it a little, and slide the shaft out enough you can get lots of Triflow in there and it should last FOREVER. :D It's a tight seal so it won't leak.

Also, there is a special spacer thats shaped a little like a F117 wing , ;) , I think PN 124-20 That's used to get the gap correct between the fan and clutch. At least that's what I use it for! :shock:

[WillJames]

Use CA (We use the Black, carbonized, rubberized) on the threads of the balls and screws that go into plastic and do NOT overtighten them.

Do not overtighten the screws in your split colars that go on the mainshaft as they will break.

[marked23]

When I was building mine, I asked a bunch of questions in this forum. Search on my name and read about the bits that confused me.

-Mark

[Scooterpilot]

Everyone,

Thanks for all you comments. It's appreciated.

I'm sure I'll have questions.

Hey Nolan, thanks As always , you're helping the beginners.

Chuck

[NolanManley]

This was taken at the LasVegas FF this year. IF you see the guy in the hat .. RUN !!!



Just kidding. :lol: Go up and say harley riders are sissy's but heli pilots ROCK!
Chuck "scooterpilot" is one heck of a great guy and friend as well as a pretty dang good pilot.
http://www.helifreak.com/album_mod/upload/465183b54fb7d1aa71f3b89c6667babd.jpg

BTW, It's the other guy in red you need to RUN from. Nothing but Trouble! :D

[angelob]

Be careful how you route servo wires - the frame edges are sharp and will slice through them. I either route the wires away from the frame edges or use fuel tubing over the frame edges to protect the wires.

Angelo

[NolanManley]

Take a small file or sandpaper and smoothing the edges works ok too but it's much harder after it's built.

[Joel Mann]

Nolan.thats the way to lay it down...
Angelo,that was a real good one too...

Some people line the edges that you can see with fuel tubing.I've been using black electrical tape on the servo wires...

When you put the fuel tank in,a small ratchet will go right down in the tank,for the final tighten.on the fuel fittings.

Also you can upgrade to some different stand offs..Ray has them in stock,also in different colors..912 682 3197

See ya

[Scooterpilot]

Take a small file or sandpaper and smoothing the edges works ok too but it's much harder after it's built.

Nolan,

I filed the edges. Also, I 'm going to wrap all the servo wires like I did for the governor sensor pickup wire that's in the photo.


Regards
Chuck

[NolanManley]

Don't forget to pull the gap spacer out between the fan. That could be interesting on runup. :shock: :dontknow

[Scooterpilot]

The build is moving along, but it's a long way from being done.

Regards


Chuck

[Billy Zimmerman]

looks good!

[NolanManley]

Chuck, Go back to the manual and see if you have got the Swash balls in the wrong place. Is sure looks off to me. Should be 120 degrees apart. Looks like it's 180 degrees backwards. Yeah, the slots go to the back. ;)


Overall looking pretty darn good. :D

[DavidH]

The swashplate is setup wrong. As Nolan mentioned, the cutouts go towards the rear of the heli.
Take the rear ball off the swash and the front stand off. Turn the swash 180 degs. Then reinstall the rear ball and front standoff.
The balls for each side will then go in the holes that are angled approx 60 degs to each side from the center towards the front.

Also from looking at the picture the servo for the rear (elevator) is not setup correctly. The swash appears to be against the swash tool square. Yet the bell crank and the pushrod to the servo are not 90 degs as they should be.

David

[NolanManley]

Good catch David, I missed that one.

[blakka_1]

Do not overtighten the screws in your split colars that go on the mainshaft as they will break.


I learned the hard way. :D

[Scooterpilot]

Hi

Nolan, David and Nigel.

I fixed the swash and eleveator servo and checked the split collars

I'll post more pics as the building progresses.

Thanks Everyone

Scooterpilot

[Joel Mann]

Good catch Nolan..

[NolanManley]

Thanks Joel, My eyes seem to only work good when pretty women are around so I got lucky on this one. :lol: I think Greg "horneydoggy" Alderman has the same problem. :wink:

[mevigavant]

I'm having trouble with the C-clips on the extreme head. I can't get the second side in. I tried using the "tool" to push it in place but it bent. I'm using the two thickest washers on each side. anyone have any tips on how I can do this without having to use a drillpress?

[lawrenmd]

I had similar issues when trying to get the extra shims in the head. If you purchase the higher durometer o-rings from mini-air you only need one thick shim and the head will be plenty stiff. Reference this post on RR.http:www.runryder.com/helicopter/t164074p1/

Dave

[WillJames]

John Garst has trick to put them on using a piece of a landing skid. It is in the Spectra Build videos. Works like a charm to seat the second clip and you can hear it click when it goes in. If you PM him or he sees this post he can tell you how it is done.