1912H/1Y vs 1915/1Y vs 30-12HE

[Flybar-less]

Just wondering what the difference will be if I swap out the 1912H/1Y for the 1915/1Y. Or I am considering buying the 30-12HE unless someone can convince me otherwise.

48 degees and sunny, going flying!

[uragano47812]

Try the Orbit, It has gob of power. Ask too "voodoo" Tom & Max for more information.

[Flybar-less]

Now it is snowing!

[MrRoth]

Snowing in Dallas???

:DOH:DOH:DOH

[Flybar-less]

Just a light dusting, probably a not noticable there.:)

[OICU812]

Snowing in Dallas?! COOOL! LOL , feel my pain! I guess it has been cold in Florida, weird! :o

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

It's been snowing here in Tyler TX today on and off. Kind of neat.

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Just wondering what the difference will be if I swap out the 1912H/1Y for the 1915/1Y. Or I am considering buying the 30-12HE unless someone can convince me otherwise.

48 degees and sunny, going flying!
I think you will be happier with the 1912H/1Y than the 1915/1Y. It draws less amps and is plenty of power. I'd go for the Orbit..... I've been wanting to try one myself. Just my .02

[OICU812]

Well I wish it was warmer here I'd let ya know. I got a 30-12HE in one of my 600s now just need the weather..... I put on the 16tooth pinion though, I am not sure the 17 tooth and super high HS is needed....at least I gotta know if it is....

BTW a little bird told me Scorpion might be making motors in our range someday soon. :wink:

[th3tick]

BTW a little bird told me Scorpion might be making motors in our range someday soon. :wink:

Who'd name a bird "Lucien"? :YeaBaby:

[Taipan]

My 1912H/1Y is a beast, did 4477W which can't be right! ;) Can't believe the 1915 is more powerful!

However I wonder if the 1912 KV is too high and that a lower KV would be better.

[Big Fil]

Who sells the Plattenberg motors?

[BruceW]

FXAeromodels.com

This one would be the hot ticket on a Logo and I think its the one Tom and Max (voodoo) fly.
https://www.fxaeromodels.com//product_info.php?cPath=94_292_226&products_id=4450&osCsid=eda7a633726f359a66d57fdd68f71550

[BruceW]

Who'd name a bird "Lucien"? :YeaBaby:

In a few months... He spilled the news here.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=516812&postcount=104

[MrMel]

Let me put it this way,
Im using the 1915 series in my .90 sized ships where it has tons of power on a > 10lb bird.

I think you will be happier with the 1912H/1Y than the 1915/1Y. It draws less amps and is plenty of power.

Are you 100% sure about that it draws less amp?, Im not too sure about that statement, I dont have eagletree recordings to confirm, but since 1915 has more mass it can actually be the opposite...

Anyway, Dont think you can go wrong with any of the motors.
Just be aware that neu motors have a tendency to let go of the shaft, three out of my 4 have done so, even after Neu's "fix" for it. I now disassemble the motors before I run them and make my own "fix" for it.

[Taipan]

MrMel could be onto something here. When my 1912 did 4477W, it peaked at 140A so I don't see the 1915 pulling anymore. As the 1915 has more mass, it could be generating more torque so therefore less current is required?

What do you mean the shafts let go? I.e. the bearings start to spin on the shaft? Do you mind sharing your fix with us an dhow you dissasemble the motors? Cheers mate.

I have the counter brearing on my Logo, dunno if that will help stop my Neu shaft from letting go.

[MrMel]

The neu motors is a alu (?) core that is drilled out in the center where the shaft goes, the shaft is secured by high temp epoxy.

What I do with my motors is that I test the motor by locking the core (screwdriver through the whole thing), take a wrench and by hand try to pry the shaft loose (have a old crappy pinion on so you dont destroy the shaft), if it let go, it needed fixing anyway.

It take the shaft out of the core(make sure to note how much sticks out at the bottom), clean it, clean the inside of the core.

Then I apply green loctite on the shaft and inside the core, put the shaft back in.
Remove all excess loctite.
Put it in the owen at 100C for a few hours.
Finally I put some CA on the end of the core where it meets the shaft.

Then I let it cure for 24-48 hours.

Finally I do my wrench test again....
Since I started with this none has let go during flight.

[Flybar-less]

I have been tolld by an indepentant test lab the 1912H/1Y will peak at 4,500 watts or 6 HP. I am looking for a lower KV motor. I have a 1915/1Y but haven't tried it.


My 1912H/1Y is a beast, did 4477W which can't be right! ;) Can't believe the 1915 is more powerful!

However I wonder if the 1912 KV is too high and that a lower KV would be better.

[Taipan]

Thanks MrMel, never heard that happening, only shafts slipping in bearings. Hmm, they epoxy the shaft into the core?? You'd think they would attach it mechanically so there is no way it can slip.

Rjohn, well, guess my motor confirmed those results! Did the lab test the 1915 & what power it pulls?

Yeah, I think the 1912's KV is too high, makes it hard to run lower headspeeds & stresses small pinions. I want to fly my 1912 some more, after all it has crazy power but if it gives me trouble, will get a 1915 or a 24-4.

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Let me put it this way,
Im using the 1915 series in my .90 sized ships where it has tons of power on a > 10lb bird.



Are you 100% sure about that it draws less amp?, Im not too sure about that statement, I dont have eagletree recordings to confirm, but since 1915 has more mass it can actually be the opposite...

Anyway, Dont think you can go wrong with any of the motors.
Just be aware that neu motors have a tendency to let go of the shaft, three out of my 4 have done so, even after Neu's "fix" for it. I now disassemble the motors before I run them and make my own "fix" for it.

Hi Fredrick, I do not have Eagletree graphs proving the more amp draw statement.... however I heard this when I was looking for a motor to fit my Logo 6003D through what I felt was a reliable source. I was told it spikes very high on amps when it's under a heavy load but isn't bad during "normal" flying. Thus the reason I passed it up on this bird. I do feel the 1915 is completely overkill on this small a heli. It's harder on 10s 3700 packs than the 1912H/1Y. Also the 1912H/1Y was designed to be used as a 10s motor. At least this is how I understand it. I only have a few flights on mine and so fare no problems.

[Flybar-less]

Taipan,
I did not get any data for other motors. I will try an Orbit HE as a comparison.

[NTM]

My 1915-1y regularly saw 110+ amps in my logo 14 on 600mm blades. Very frugal on average amp draw when not under load though. It ran between 90-110 amps on the logo 6003d v-bar.
The most amp hungry motor I've tested yet, but it knocks out the power if you've got the power supply to back it up.
The 32-3 "max" I'm currently using is actually more powerful yet, but doesn't spike as high amp draw wise. Higher average amp draw though.
The 1915 is good for mixed flying, the 32-3 gets the nod for non stop hard 3d though.

I have a hard time believing a 1912-1y would draw 4500 watts without something being horribly wrong. you'd have to have some serious resistance, bad gearing, or about 20 degrees of pitch to do that !

Regards,
Nathan

[Flybar-less]

I am runninng +- 14 degrees collective and +- 10 cyclic with the 1912H/1Y. It will under full collective perform full cyclic ladders without skipping a beat. The funny thing is the CC 85HV runs warm on this heli. The German controllers run hot, except the PJ.

[NTM]

The 55-10-32 is on the edge of its maximum switching rate with the 1912-1y on 10s, and I believe the schulze esc's have an even lower switching rate. That's likely where the heat build-up is coming from.
The PJ has a higher switching rate, like the cc85hv's.

I've never actually run one of the three 1912-1y's that I own on the 6003d yet.

Regards,
Nathan

[Taipan]

Gee Nathan, what do you you use your 1912's in??