New Flybarless System

[SpeedVision]

Ya. The day before we had a beam working fairly well in about 30 minutes. But then I was humbled yesterday by a lowly blade 400, even with direct access to data logs I couldn't get it working. No problem with that gyro either, I could see directly what was happening with each command cycle. It did it all: tipped at takeoff, couldn't get the hiller high enough, wandered & kicked. Seemed that its head + blades just wasn't suitable. One guy has one working though - but with a conversion using trex head parts and blades. There are a lot of variables.

It is encouraging that Fireup was able to duplicate his tilt on the bench. His might or might not be related to a few of us that seem to have the flip tendancy towards the bell/hillier pots.

I'm looking forward to doing some bench testing tonight (without blades - for safety and budget) to see if I can duplicate "the tilt"...

Ironic part is the fact the it did work, now it doesn't (passes pre-flight, too) and I have the tried and true Mini Titan Head parts, on a Titan...

Also, for the sake of science, I tried to spin up in Idle 1 (85% across) and zero pitch, thinking that maybe something "gives out"... The only thing that gave out was a main shaft...:rolling

[SpeedVision]

There is so much variation of helis and mechanical setups going on, I may not be able to solve every problem based just on what I know from local testing. The best I can do is eliminate firmware and hardware issues, and offer what's been learned here to date.

There are at least 3 smaller manufacturers working on flybarless helis and conversion parts, I think the situation will improve quite a bit when those come out. As it is, unless you follow a well-worn path every conversion is an experiment.

Well said... Troubleshooting is about process control. With all of our DIY flybarless setups, we are creating variables instead of eliminating them. This makes YOUR JOB especially difficult. Our first instinct is to blame the gyro...when it could be several of the before mentioned issues that's truely causing the problem. Look how many people can't get a simple Logictech 2100 (or 401) gyro to work on their tails... Not bashing them, that's just the way it is...

In the end, this is why I'll continue to participate in this experiement (I knew what I was getting myself into) and I will maintiain a positive attitude through the process. :hug:

[hamslice]

Well said... Troubleshooting is about process control. With all of our DIY flybarless setups, we are creating variables instead of eliminating them. This makes YOUR JOB especially difficult. Our first instinct is to blame the gyro...when it could be several of the before mentioned issues that's truely causing the problem. Look how many people can't get a simple Logictech 2100 (or 401) gyro to work on their tails... Not bashing them, that's just the way it is...

In the end, this is why I'll continue to participate in this experiement (I knew what I was getting myself into) and I will maintiain a positive attitude through the process. :hug:


well said i am in for the long haul too.

[lesodell]

how does my head look ? did i miss anything ?

[hamslice]

well i had a super voilent headshake today on spool down. it shook so bad that it stripped the plastic servo horn. i got pretty lucky that it didnt boom strike. anyways i think it was a blessing in disguis cause i just tore down the head to redo everything and double check things and i found what might be a big issue.


my swashplate ball was very hard to move. so much so that it to some effort to tilt the swash by hand on the mainshaft.

i am kindof ticked cause the swash is the new design from align and has only 46 flights on it. i am hoping that by throwing on the old swash which is still good that the heli will improve.

just sharing what i found and will test tomorrow as it is too dark to fly now.

[Skaross]

With all of our DIY flybarless setups, we are creating variables instead of eliminating them. This makes YOUR JOB especially difficult. Our first instinct is to blame the gyro...when it could be several of the before mentioned issues that's truely causing the problem. Look how many people can't get a simple Logictech 2100 (or 401) gyro to work on their tails... Not bashing them, that's just the way it is...

Have to agree with the comments regarding DIY heads. On the tried and tested Logo head, my SK360 worked out of the box. Doesn't help those who are having problems now, but does demonstrate that a well designed head with some history works well.

I joined this early adopters program because I love to tinker with new tech. and work in control systems for a living... have to say, the ride for me has been beyond smooth :)

Kev

[Deron Douglas]

Hi,
I ordered and received the SK360 a few weeks back. I mounted it and now I'm ready to setup, and as things would go... I can't find the manual? or did it not come with one? I have the setup CDROM, is the manual there? What I'm looking for is a step by step instructions... sorry haven't check out the cdrom yet... it was 12:30 am last night and I was too tired to look.

Am I missing anything. Check the website, couldn't find anything.

Basic question. I have the head mechanically setup (90 degrees with zero pitch - midstick)... what do I do now? Plug in the servos to sk360 and setup the rest from there? BTW... I'm running a HAC 5 blade head.

Thanks.

[SpeedVision]

Hi,
I ordered and received the SK360 a few weeks back. I mounted it and now I'm ready to setup, and as things would go... I can't find the manual? or did it not come with one? I have the setup CDROM, is the manual there? What I'm looking for is a step by step instructions... sorry haven't check out the cdrom yet... it was 12:30 am last night and I was too tired to look.

Am I missing anything. Check the website, couldn't find anything.

Basic question. I have the head mechanically setup (90 degrees with zero pitch - midstick)... what do I do now? Plug in the servos to sk360 and setup the rest from there? BTW... I'm running a HAC 5 blade head.

Thanks.

Here: http://www.digiflybar.com/downloads/

Or under help in the software.

Read the manual VERY carefully and make sure everything does EXACTLY what the manual suggests. With five expensive blades, I would also suggest some "training wheels" because 1 wrong setting can be expensive.

[Deron Douglas]

PERFECT! Thanks! :thumbup: It looks familar, I must has misplaced it somewhere.

YES, training gear is a good idea. I didn't think of that. I'll definitely use them until I get things dialed in.

Cheers!


Here: http://www.digiflybar.com/downloads/

Or under help in the software.

Read the manual VERY carefully and make sure everything does EXACTLY what the manual suggests. With five expensive blades, I would also suggest some "training wheels" because 1 wrong setting can be expensive.

[Deron Douglas]

OK, I know this seems stupid. But I'm at work and don't have access to the heli just yet. So here goes.... is the side with the dials and indicator light the "Front"? If so, I mounted these facing back (below the tail gyro) which means I'll need to set the SK360 with a 10 degree turn in the software?

Thanks

[hamslice]

no, the side with the adj pots is not the front. you will have to click the rotate 90 deg. it is the same way i have mine mounted.

[Deron Douglas]

no, the side with the adj pots is not the front. you will have to click the rotate 90 deg. it is the same way i have mine mounted.

Ah... ok... I'll keep that in mind... rotate CW or CCW?

[lesodell]

anyone have pic's of there setup on a trex500 ? where you put things and were you ran the wirer's? thanks

[hamslice]

Ah... ok... I'll keep that in mind... rotate CW or CCW?

as far as i know u can only rotate in one direction. just make sure that everything check out on the live data(green=noseup green=roll right) make sure that the stick inputs do the same.

[Deron Douglas]

as far as i know u can only rotate in one direction. just make sure that everything check out on the live data(green=noseup green=roll right) make sure that the stick inputs do the same.

Thanks. Just read that in the manual. A good use of me lunch hour I think ;)

[Skookum]

ddragon: You can find the up to date manual here:

http://www.skookumrobotics.com/downloads/SK360_Manual.pdf

It will also be installed on your PC with the software, and can be reached through the start menu of your computer or the help menu of the software.

[larryfl]

is there any trex 500 heads for the flybarless available currently??

[mjr_larkin]

Is there any Gaui 200 heads available for use while I wait for my new 500 class? :rolling

[Skookum]

There will be a firmware update for the SK360 posted to the website [Sunday] evening, May [4].

The main changes will be better self-diagnostics at init, and better tolerance of vibration. If your heli runs analog servos the improvement re vibs is enough that you may want to wait for the update before flying again.

The upgrade to vib resistance came out of a long effort to get the Blade 400 flying ok. Which it now seems to be (!), after work on the mechanics based on e-copter's comments and changes to the firmware to tolerate the blade's buzzing.

[Caleb Phillips]

I was thinking about mounting one to my Stratus but I'll have to wait and see what the other nitro guys are saying especially after the update.

[hamslice]

oh come on it did say sat evening.

[Caleb Phillips]

oh come on it did say sat evening.

hmmm???

[hamslice]

skookum edited his post. earlier today he said they would have the update this evening not tomorrow. oh well i was pumped to try it tomorrow, but now i have to wait until mon.

[Caleb Phillips]

Oh, ok. :thumbup:

[Skookum]

Apologies, the firmware update testing isn't going as quick as I'd have thought. It will be out at some point in the next few days, and a notice will be posted here. Safer to not rush it.

The improvement to vib resistance is such that you've been having any problems at all it's probably a good idea to wait for the update before flying again.