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Helisrfun
01-24-2008, 01:27 AM
Picked up a new rapter 90SE kit the other day and I must say I'm impressed with the quality of the parts. This makes Heli number 4. I have a Wakera 68B, Trex 450 V2, Trex 600N and now this one. It's quite a bit larger than the 600!:shock: Can't wait to fly it!

Lota Fun R
01-24-2008, 09:42 PM
Once you get it airborne you'll love it, nothin like it. :smokin:

Ah Clem
01-25-2008, 10:48 AM
I agree with Mitch (Lota Fun R).

Raptor 90 is a well made machine and flies beautifully.

Helisrfun
01-25-2008, 02:37 PM
Yes that's what I've been told "You'll love the way it fiys."

Can anyone recomend a governor that will work well with the Rapter and why you like it?

Thanks in advance.:lol:

Laurens
01-25-2008, 04:25 PM
I love mine. I got some addiction problems though. Last wednesday I wanted to order the R903D boomclamp. To justify shipping I ordered a white gear too.

15 minutes later I bought stuff for 113 euro instead of just the 3 euro part...

But hey, at least I have a carbon boom and metal bearing blocks now!

vandelescrow
01-26-2008, 06:38 PM
Governor, I use the one made by the good folks at aerospire.com because it is not only a governor, it is a rev limiter depending on how you want it set up for each flight mode. Also there customer support is excellent. I developed a problem with one of my governors due to a crash. I e-mailed aerospire on a Sunday evening, not expecting to get a reply till Monday right? Wrong, with in a half hour the problem was diagnosed and had another one ordered for replacement at half cost and ready for shipping.

Helisrfun
01-26-2008, 08:26 PM
Hey vandelescrow thanks for the info. Service is always one thing to consider when purchasing an item. I'll look into aerospire.com thanks.

:confused:
On another note while assembling the new raptor 90SE today I noticed that the one way bearing on the main shaft was very stiff. It did indeed only let the the gear rotate in one direction but the slip part on the one way was very stiff. Not at all like the one way bearing on my Trex 600N. Any thoughts on this? Bad bearing or are they all like that?

vandelescrow
01-26-2008, 08:58 PM
I'm building a Raptor 90 3d and posted the same question. Infact I even greased the one way before asemgly. Now that I am almost done it has loosened up and I was told after a few flights it will be free.

Helisrfun
01-26-2008, 09:11 PM
Ok Good. I'll grease it and assemble and hope for the best.

vandelescrow; Did you find the assemble manual a bit criptive on the assembly? I sure did. This is the 4th heli I have built and I think it could be a bit clearer. The quality is good just the assembly pictures are hard to follow. My 2 cents.

Ah Clem
01-26-2008, 11:18 PM
Helisrfun,

I would not grease the autorotation clutch.

Most people are running either Triflow or transmission fluid.
(I have always used Triflow).

You want something with relatively low viscosity.

And yes, it will free up a very great deal after a flight or two.


The instructions were pretty good, a little fuzzy in some areas (like that small machined piece that goe under the collective push-pull bellcrank-I never would have figured out where that went without these forums).

vandelescrow
01-27-2008, 08:57 AM
Ah Clem,

The machined piece you mentioned, Is that the one I asked about in a different thread? Because I have not found the place for it yet.

Greasing the autorotation hub, I'm using the Thunder Tiger Grease. When I built my 50 I didn't know about greasing it and never had a problem, figured I better not push my luck.

Yes the manual could be better. Like what direction the main bearings go in. It took a while examining the drawing before noticing the directions are not on the page with the sub assembly but on the main page to the section. I already built 2 Raptor 50's and because they are so simular mechanicly is the reason I chose the Raptor 90.

Ah Clem
01-27-2008, 03:50 PM
Vandlescrow,

Yes, it is the same part.

It is supposed to go under the collective push-pull bellcrank to space it out, according to the thread.

I did not realize this, and made my own spacer, so the information came too late for me. I will install it when I take my ship apart (hopefully not for a long time).

As for the autorotation clutches, I have read every thread on clutches and lubrication that I could find.

Early on, we used Schluter grease. The clutches would fail. The rollers would stick because of the grease, then let go, breaking the cage and running over their ramps. This caused clutches to lock or, more often,to just let go (usually at the least opportune moment).

Most of us went to light oil or Triflow.

Most people on these forums seem to use Triflow or transmission fluid.


How close are you to finishing your ship?

Kinger
01-27-2008, 06:47 PM
Here's my 2 cents on the TT autohub. Fly it box stock until it locks. When it does, replace it with a Quick UK unit and never worry about it again :)

Laurens
01-28-2008, 06:17 AM
I second that, did the same. Some people haven't had it lock up in 2 years.

vandelescrow
01-28-2008, 07:47 PM
To complete my heli I still need a receiver, throttle servo muffler and main blades. I got the YS 91 long stroke so for the muffler I will be getting the Hatori SB-19FH. A bit pricey but its specifically made for that engine. Receiver will be the JR 9 channel spektrum and the throttle servo will be a JRPS8700G. I have not decided on main blades yet but will probably be MAH 690 G3s. What blades do the rest of you guys recommend?

Kinger
01-28-2008, 10:00 PM
Big fan of the Curtis 710's either in regular form or in SB (stick banger) form.

Ah Clem
01-29-2008, 11:45 AM
I am running Radix 690's on the mains, and Radix (but I cannot remember the length) on the tail.

I run Radix on most of my ships. I have not tried any other main blades on the Raptor 90.


Would that I could get away to fly it again...
(working seven days a week at this point)

Laurens
01-29-2008, 06:22 PM
I only have experience with SAB and TT on my R90. I like them both, the SAB a bit more. If I want to buy a new pair I think it'll be Radix 690's in normal version. I just LOVE the way they're made.

Lota Fun R
01-29-2008, 07:03 PM
Blades? I've used the TT 710 Graphite's and they are heavy but I hear they auto really well, I've also used the Rotor Tech 710s and they work good but not as good at the 710 stick bangers. The RTs are a bit noisy compared to the stick bangers but seem fine.

With these birds you shouldn't be going thru blades that often so cost isn't as big of an issue to me. I'll be running the stick bangers for 3D and the TTs for auto rotation, I haven't done any auto's so I don't know how well the stick bangers work, I'm told the TTs work best for auto's.

Ah Clem
01-29-2008, 07:17 PM
Mitch,

Good to see you posting on this thread!

I am working seven days a week these days, so no flying (other than Sunday before last).

The Raptor 90 3D is just sitting there, waiting...
(whine, whine, whine...)

Oh well, it is very difficult for it to break, sitting on the shelf.

vandelescrow
01-29-2008, 07:18 PM
Lota Fun R,

What blades are you refering to as "stick bangers"?

vandelescrow
01-29-2008, 07:22 PM
Oh sorry about my last, I see you are refering to the Radix. I see there are an FAI and CYE. Are you talking about the CYE?

Laurens
01-30-2008, 04:31 AM
CYE = Curtis Youngblood enterprises

The FAI are the FAI version, kind of heavy and gold instead of white. Great for precision flying.
The normal blades are best of both worlds.
The SB's are kind of faster and don't load up the head so fast.