View Full Version : Hacker Controller setting for round cells?
lowandslow
05-26-2005, 05:46 PM
What voltage cut off should I be using? I'm assuming that because they are round cells, you can set the cut off pretty low or even null. Once the voltage drops to a certain point, the heli would no longer be able to sustain a hover and you'd know in plenty of time that it was time to come down when the power started drop.
fitenfyr
05-26-2005, 06:55 PM
Your correct. :D
Can't really hurt a round cell in a heli. :D
I would leave it at the factory settings and go with it.
lowandslow
05-26-2005, 10:06 PM
Thanks. I just spun it up for the first time (without the blades of course) Sure doesn't seem like it's a very soft start. I have the Hacker programmer box and I did verify that it is soft. Hum....
fitenfyr
05-27-2005, 12:43 PM
How are you starting it?
You should move the collective to half stick and wait for the head to spool up.
Then kick it into ID1 or what ever from there.
Mine is smooth as silk.....
Just don't take it out of hold when the blades are still turning a bit. :roll: It will eat a set of tailblades in a hurry on the grass. :D :D
lowandslow
05-27-2005, 01:42 PM
Seems to be ok. I flew it for the first time this morning. Smooth as glass. I got about 2 1/2 minutes out of the IB3800's (32 cells). Not sure what to make about that unless they need to be completely cycled a few times. The head speed went down pretty fast after only a couple of minutes but I could only put back about 1000mah in each pack. The motor, ESC and Batt's never even got warm. Nimah's usually get pretty warm right before they peek but these packs say very cool during the charge. Hopefully they just need to be taken down and back up a few times.
misskimo
05-27-2005, 02:17 PM
hey , sounds like a discharge problem with the new cells you got , when a battery acts like that, its too much for it , you will need either the 2600, 3300 , or even the 2400s .
were the batteries hot after you flew ?
Tony
lowandslow
05-27-2005, 02:55 PM
No, very cool.
misskimo
05-27-2005, 02:57 PM
huh? not hot , well try it again , who made the packs ?
Tony
lowandslow
05-27-2005, 03:03 PM
Battle Packs. Don't see why 2400's would work but not 3800's. I'm cycling the packs now. They never even got warm when I charged them the first time.
misskimo
05-27-2005, 03:14 PM
hey , when I flew round cells back 2 years ago , I had a problem with one set of packs , the fellow that built them didnt solder the cells end to end that well which ended up causeing a discharge problem due to high res. packs would get hot , and some cells got to hot and messed up the pack .
huh? after reading it again , sounds like a charger problem , what charger you have ?
Tony
lowandslow
05-27-2005, 03:18 PM
Triton. Funny thing, you can set a discharge rate of 3.0amps. I can only get it to discharge at 1.0amps. The charge rate can go up to 5amp. I have a 10 cell GP3300 pack that I charge at 3amps and it get's pretty warm right before it peaks. These packs stay cool. I'm waiting on a call from Battle Packs to discuss.
misskimo
05-27-2005, 03:26 PM
sounds like a mismatch pack when made , like some of the cells were a different voltage when building
lowandslow
05-27-2005, 04:11 PM
It was my F'in charger. Or should I say my F'in brain. It's a new charger and I went through the menus. NiMi was set to only put in 1000mah. Duh! I mostly use it for my Lipos. Ok, we'll see where we're at now. Thanks, you sparked my thoughts on this.
misskimo
05-27-2005, 04:30 PM
cool ,
Tony