MT325SE arrived -YIKES

[WayneBrown]

Owned a Pitts Special S1


I had an S2C two seater. Loved every minute of that thing.
I expect to be in Chicago again in a week or two down near Plainfield.
If I drive up I'll have some nitro choppers with me and a buddy box to help you get your feet wet, and I'll have a look over your build too if you want.

[randerson07]

I had an S2C two seater. Loved every minute of that thing.
I expect to be in Chicago again in a week or two down near Plainfield.
If I drive up I'll have some nitro choppers with me and a buddy box to help you get your feet wet, and I'll have a look over your build too if you want.

Where at in Plainfield? I spent about 20 years in Plainfield, and spent countless thousands at the best LHS ive ever seen, Leisure Hours. Ill probably never move back there, its just too stinking crowded now, but its nice to visit the folks now and again.

[WayneBrown]

I honestly won't know where until they tell me. ;)
I was so lost, I couldn't tell which way was north, and thats pretty hard to do.

[Ratjr15]

I have the "regular" E325 on the table, due to some confusing aspects i also have the SE version sitting on a shelf but currently the plastic version is the one i´m gonna build/crash.

What troubles me is that there are differences in the online available manuals and the one that came with my kit. They are perfectly similar except for some of the threadlocking instructions.

Example:

In my manual under the "Main rotor-1" section (pg6), step 3 there is no indication that the bolts securing the seesaw hub should be T22´ed. Further down the same page in the "Note" section there is an outline for T22 - Threadlocking, R48 - Anaerobics retainer and finally CA - CA glue.

In the manuals i have found online (sorry, can´t remember the link, it´s a PDF - TTR4710) there is a clear indication that the seesaw bolts should be T22´ed and under the "note" section bottom page there is no mentioning of any CA - CA glue.

Other than that they look perfectly smiliar, same print, font, layout, illustration etc. Identical in every aspect except for the above mentioned anomalies.

Should i assume that Thunder Tiger has changed the manual and so forth proceed according to my manual? Honestly, i have a hard time beliving that this is a printshop error. It simply seems as TT has changed it´s opinion on which bolts really need the T22. There are plenty of threadlocking instructions further into the manual so this is only relevant to some of the steps.

Thanks Cym!

I suppose aluminum is a different "beast" to deal with, very little flex/lots of vibration makes up the need for securing those bolts with something :-)
Are you maybe looking at the SE manual and comparing it to the regular e325 manual? Just thinking they'll be pretty much identical, build-wise, except the SE has alot more aluminum parts, requiring locktite...

[mkoutnik]

Is there a manual in pdf for the SE yet? I am looking for the part number for the green flybar paddles, want to put them on BO along with the short battery tray?

TT neon green 3D paddles Part # PV0837.

[ghtracey]

I have the "regular" E325 on the table, due to some confusing aspects i also have the SE version sitting on a shelf but currently the plastic version is the one i´m gonna build/crash.

What troubles me is that there are differences in the online available manuals and the one that came with my kit. They are perfectly similar except for some of the threadlocking instructions.

Example:

In my manual under the "Main rotor-1" section (pg6), step 3 there is no indication that the bolts securing the seesaw hub should be T22´ed. Further down the same page in the "Note" section there is an outline for T22 - Threadlocking, R48 - Anaerobics retainer and finally CA - CA glue.

In the manuals i have found online (sorry, can´t remember the link, it´s a PDF - TTR4710) there is a clear indication that the seesaw bolts should be T22´ed and under the "note" section bottom page there is no mentioning of any CA - CA glue.

Other than that they look perfectly smiliar, same print, font, layout, illustration etc. Identical in every aspect except for the above mentioned anomalies.

Should i assume that Thunder Tiger has changed the manual and so forth proceed according to my manual? Honestly, i have a hard time beliving that this is a printshop error. It simply seems as TT has changed it´s opinion on which bolts really need the T22. There are plenty of threadlocking instructions further into the manual so this is only relevant to some of the steps.

Thanks Cym!

I suppose aluminum is a different "beast" to deal with, very little flex/lots of vibration makes up the need for securing those bolts with something :-)

The TT4710 download manual is wrong. I noticed this just theother night. Where they are saying to use threadlock would have you putting T22 into plastic (seesaw to rotor-head) which is generally bad. Threadlock only goes on metal to metal connections. As well, be very careful with the CA if you ever plan on taking anything apart. If you CA the small screws on the e325's linkage balls, you'll probably never be able to remove them without breaking the screw off in the hole. If you feel you need to CA a screw in, use a very small amount.

[Cym]

Let me know where & when, I'm retired so my schedual is VERY flexable.
Looking forward to meeting a former Pitts driver :)
Ed Cymbal (I.A.C. Chapter 1)

[tomra]

The TT4710 download manual is wrong. I noticed this just theother night. Where they are saying to use threadlock would have you putting T22 into plastic (seesaw to rotor-head) which is generally bad. Threadlock only goes on metal to metal connections. As well, be very careful with the CA if you ever plan on taking anything apart. If you CA the small screws on the e325's linkage balls, you'll probably never be able to remove them without breaking the screw off in the hole. If you feel you need to CA a screw in, use a very small amount.

Thank you for the confirmation!

I decided to go with my gut feeling and follow the manual that came with the kit. I suppose i could have used more CA on some of the parts because i have a feeling something is gonna come loose, it seems so fragile and there´s a lot of power unleashed once that rotor start to spin, I guess it´s called to learn things the "hard way" :shock::o

Anyway, mostly finished the build, some of the ball links are waaay too loose, need to take care of those. I even bought a set of new links but guess what, they are loose like in "very sloppy" straight out of the bag!?! Still haven not decided on battery and transmitter, need to order those within this weekend because i´m starting to feel really eager to try this thing out.

A couple of questions...how do you guys assemble the ball links? I mean, there´s quite a bit of friction in those threads and the "loops" are soo tiny. I suspect i might have "loosened" up some of them during assembly simply because i need to hold them very tight (using thumb and point finger, firm but even)?!

How do you guys set the belt tension, manual says there should be no more than 5mm free play...5mm free play measured were? On my first pass it felt too loose, so i tightened it. Then it felt to tight (spinning the rotorhead) so i loosened it (stripping a couple of M2 nuts in the process). I think i have found something that feels pretty good now and i´m ready to try it like this. Any tell tell signs on spoolup that the belt tension is very wrong?

[tomra]

Are you maybe looking at the SE manual and comparing it to the regular e325 manual? Just thinking they'll be pretty much identical, build-wise, except the SE has alot more aluminum parts, requiring locktite...

Thank you for the heads up but i´m rest assured cause the SE is safely stored on the shelf unopened. Don´t wanna mix things up on my first build ;)

[ghtracey]

Well, its better not to overdo the CA. Those tiny screws are might hard to get out of a hole if you snap them off trying to adjust something.

I assembled the ball links pretty much the same way you did. There are tools you can buy with a slot in the that holds the link and allows you to thread it onto the ball. If you have two links that feel loose on the same ball, maybe the balll is flawed? The links should be loose enough to fall under their own weight.

The belt tension is measured just behind the tail belt drive gear. Just stick a small screwdriver or your little finger in there and see how far you can move it.

Radio choice... what's you budget. My top 2 right now are Spektrum DX7 or the JR x9303. Costs are good, with a wide range of Rx's now.