MT325SE arrived -YIKES

[Cym]

My first build, I have stripped and rebilt co-ax but this bird looks challenging!!!
I have been researching on hints etc., any suggestions on video builds or text info, sure would appreciate guidence for this heli. Studing the manual at present, HELP PLEASE!
Going to the med chest for some Aspirins maybe some Tums.
BTW, am a Senior & enjoy this hobby of late.

[Cym]

BTW, I have ALL my ratings in FIXED WINGS, land&sea.
Well that may not hold much water but I thought I'd mention it.
Owned a Pitts Special S1, did air shows around the State of Il &
Oshcosh & Found De Lack plus boarding States.
Had fun, but the body needs to rest:)

Need your help with E325SE, come-on Forum you got it.

[crabfu]

What do you need help on? easier for people to jump in and help out when you have specifics :)

-Crabfu

[chuckk]

things that make it easier...if you'll be using hs-65mg servos you'll need to file the servo mounts. it's best to do this before you install them on the heli.

[mkoutnik]

Read RC Heli magazine...it's an incredible resource for information.

At a minimum read these articles...

1) http://www.rchelimag.com/pages/howto.php?howto=12&page=1
2) http://www.rchelimag.com/pages/howto.php?howto=14&page=1
3) http://www.rchelimag.com/pages/howto.php?howto=11&page=2
4) http://www.rchelimag.com/pages/howto.php?howto=6&page=2

[Cym]

Thanks for the info, will shout when I get into trouble.

[tracerbob]

Get yourself a pair of long tweezers and some small screwdrivers. Those little screws are aggravating. The only thing I had trouble with the the main rotor head build. The instructions were not very clear and luckily an illustration a few more pages over cleared things up.

[Cym]

There has been mentioned that a certain amount of greese should be applied to the grip assembly? What kind & where to obtain this?
Thanks .

[mkoutnik]

I used standard white lithium grease - Lube up the the flap dampeners (inner diameter) and the the thrush bearings.

[haf4046]

Hi Cym
Looks like you're in for some fun! Building a kit is part of the enjoyment so just don't rush it.
A 1.5mm and 2.5mm hex driver with hardened tips along with a couple of small cross point screwdrivers of the right point taper will make it more fun. I am still using the align screwdrivers that cam with my trex kit as they have the correct point taper for the metric screws. Check in the car section of your LHS, they have more of these kinds of tools than the airplane side.

[Cym]

You bet fellows, I'll follow those tips. It's GREAT to have those responces since this is my first major build.
I have been reading & re reading the new manual & checking out the diagrams, it does explain to a point the building help BUT the TUNNING will be the question.
Realy appreciate the forum's answers & tips.

[tomra]

Cym, as i am in your situation, having just recieved a Mini Titan (my first build) i hope you don´t mind me asking an additional question about building the Mini Titan.

The following webpage says that the two screws securing the seesaw hub to the main rotorhub should be secured with threadlock, however, the TT manual that came with my kit mentions nothing of applying threadlock to these parts.

Link : http://www.smallrotors.com/miniti.htm

If i compare the manual posted in the above link to my own they look identical, except for the little T22 symbol pointing towards the screw which has been removed in my copy of the manual.

Now for the question, could this be a differrence in regional manuals, different kits for the US compared to europe? Could it be that TT somehow changed the composite of their plastic rendering T22 threadlock obsolete (on specific bolts)? Is there a general rule of thumb as far as where threadlocking goes and where it doesn´t? As i understand it metal against metal needs medium strong threadlocking while "non machined" screws going into plastic don´t need any threadlocking, true? Do you experienced guys have any rules of thumb which you use regardless of what the manual says?

Thank you.

Cym, not intending to hijack your thread, let me know and i´ll remove my post or have any of the mods remove it if you feel it´s too off topic :wink:

[mkoutnik]

You are completely correct...metal against metal needs medium (red) threadlocking while screws going into plastic don´t need threadlocking.

Here's a link to a Mini Titan build thread... http://www.rchelimag.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2262&highlight=titan+build
He does a really good job!! Have fun! :D

[Cym]

Not at ALL, good questions, keep them coming.

[Cym]

I have the 325SE Manual & it says to put T22 on those screws, what model do you have?

[tomra]

I have the "regular" E325 on the table, due to some confusing aspects i also have the SE version sitting on a shelf but currently the plastic version is the one i´m gonna build/crash.

What troubles me is that there are differences in the online available manuals and the one that came with my kit. They are perfectly similar except for some of the threadlocking instructions.

Example:

In my manual under the "Main rotor-1" section (pg6), step 3 there is no indication that the bolts securing the seesaw hub should be T22´ed. Further down the same page in the "Note" section there is an outline for T22 - Threadlocking, R48 - Anaerobics retainer and finally CA - CA glue.

In the manuals i have found online (sorry, can´t remember the link, it´s a PDF - TTR4710) there is a clear indication that the seesaw bolts should be T22´ed and under the "note" section bottom page there is no mentioning of any CA - CA glue.

Other than that they look perfectly smiliar, same print, font, layout, illustration etc. Identical in every aspect except for the above mentioned anomalies.

Should i assume that Thunder Tiger has changed the manual and so forth proceed according to my manual? Honestly, i have a hard time beliving that this is a printshop error. It simply seems as TT has changed it´s opinion on which bolts really need the T22. There are plenty of threadlocking instructions further into the manual so this is only relevant to some of the steps.

Thanks Cym!

I suppose aluminum is a different "beast" to deal with, very little flex/lots of vibration makes up the need for securing those bolts with something :-)

[Cym]

I intend to T22 those screws as instructed in the manual.
Good luck on your build.

[tomra]

Thank you Cym and good luck to you too!

Have you decided which servos you will be using?

[Cym]

DS285 for cyclic & the Futaba Tail S9257 & Futaba Gyro GY401 plus Thunder Tiger Lipo eXtreme V2 2200mah.
I have the DX7 for Helicopters with the AR6100 Rx.
Take care: Cym

[chuckk]

from a mini-titan owner to the next...if any of you are looking for more packs, balancers or a charger i have a setup for sale. http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=60088

[ghtracey]

You are completely correct...metal against metal needs medium (red) threadlocking while screws going into plastic don´t need threadlocking.

Here's a link to a Mini Titan build thread... http://www.rchelimag.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2262&highlight=titan+build
He does a really good job!! Have fun! :D

Red locktite (the brandname stuff) requires heat to remove. Be carefull with what you choose. Blue is the color you want if you are using "locktite", unless you want to have to heat every metal to metal connector you have once time for a teardown comes.

Also, on the topic, if you CA any of the screws into plastic, don't plan on removing them, especially the TT ball-link screws. They'll simply twist off. So if you are CAing those adjustable mixing arm balls, make sure you have them in the holes you want them in. :)

[mkoutnik]

Clarification...When I stated red thread locking compound, I was referring to the T22 thread locking liquid that comes with the MT kit...

[ghtracey]

Ahhh I completely forgot they included that. ... and made it a different color just to confuse everyone. My bad. :)

[redrsv]

Hey Kids,
I have flow my Mini Titan for 6 months now and destroyed it 3 times.
Some tips from a newbe:
1) Use metal gear servo's, the plastic ones suck if your new and crash
2) at 50% stick (throttle) with radio at 100%(travel adjust) all servos arms should be at 90 degrees. All arms level,flybar level, swash level, pitch at 0 degrees.
3) When you raise and lower the left stick you should only have 1-2mm at the top between the washout and the head and there should be no interferance at the bottom between the links and the swash (It should not come off the 2 guides either) It should have the same total pitch top and bottom
4) set up the tail to stay straight with the gyro in rate mode first, adjust the linkage to do this first, before swithching to HH mode or it will drift
5) Balance your blades with a good balancer or it will shake on spoolup
6) When you tighten the lower bolt and nut (goes through the gear) ,lock tight it to be snug only. If you make it tight you will warp the one-way bearing sleeve and it will not freewheel smoothly, when you spin it. How do I know this....
7) do not fly your lypos all the way down or you will be getting new ones
8) stay away from the metal upgrades and carbon blades until you can fly for a while without crashing. They break a lot more stuff than the plastic and wood when you crash, (how do I know this..)
I hope this helps, Its a great heli, I fly mine everyday when I can!
Cheers, :cheers
Steve

[haf4046]

Is there a manual in pdf for the SE yet? I am looking for the part number for the green flybar paddles, want to put them on BO along with the short battery tray?