New TT MT build, couple questions

[randerson07]

I got my MT in the mail yesterday and spent last night and 3 or 4 hours this morning building it and have a couple questions

1. what is the green anaerobics retainer liquid for?
I didnt see it referenced in the manual

2. there seems to be some extra parts, All I have left to do are put in the servos gyro, and 1 set of links that I screwed up, I have two bags of parts I havent opened, and a couple Misc screws left is that supposed to happen?

Over all it was a smooth build, Ive been building RC cars for a long time and this was easier than a couple cars i built. I Had trouble with the flybar, how the heck do you get it exact? im really close, within a half MM but it took a long time to do. Also the links, what a PITA, those should really be turnbuckles.

I love the whole boom and Tail assm, soo much easier to do then on my B400.

Thanks
Ryan

[mkoutnik]

I'm not sure what the green anaerobics retainer liquid is for...I didn't use it either, nor is it referenced anywhere in the manual.

I too had extra parts. Don't sweat it...

If you're within a 1/2 mm on the flybar, you'll be fine, just as long as the flybar lengths are very close to the same on each side of the head. Mine is the same way.

I agree, the tail boom is a sweet design! :D

[randerson07]

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/2_375_569/products_id/11489

Looks like the green stuff is glue according to Amain

[cybernero]

I also didn't know use of 'anaerobatic retainer'.
But after surveying that...

I thought it maybe kind of 'bearing locker'.

When you're inserting the bearing into a certain parts,
you can fix or lock the bearings to the plastic and metal part.

:roll:

[haf4046]

The R48 is specd visually on P15 step 1 to secure the body mounting posts, but the assy step 3 text says to use CA, maybe either is ok ?

[randerson07]

So I installed all my electronics yesterday, 3x hs56hb, gy401, futaba 9650, and thunder power 2100's. Set up on my dx6i based on what ive read and what my b400 was setup like.

I did some test hovering this morning before work, and it was acting weird, so I adjusted the swash mix until my inputs on the tx matched what the heli was doing and I think I have that worked out. Because I used hs56's, with a two hole mount compared to the one hole on the MT, my links are not aligned at 90degrees with the swash when using the manual suggested 12.5mm away from the center of the servo, should I move the ball out one more hole to align with the swash better?

Also on the elev servo, again because the servo mount has two holes I was forced to use the lower hole and the servo sits up slightly and I had to shorten the link as far as i could and then still had to elongate the other two links to compensate, is this going to cause problems for me?

I set up my curves based on the manuals suggestions and I dont like them much, it seems to want to hover too soon, with not enough head speed. Can anyone post their radio settings? preferably from a dx6, dx6i or I assume a dx7 would be similar.

One last thing, should I be applying some sort of lube to the main shaft for the swash and to the tail shaft for the slider? with standard grease work?

I still need to get the blades tracking better and probably need to make a few more adjustments, but this bird even as out of wack as it is, seems much smoother than my B400.

Heres a pic of my two birds just for fun
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/mbxb4/MiniTTB4004.jpg

[haf4046]

I drilled a 3rd hole between the other 2 to mount my HS56 servos on the MT, (.076 imperial IIRC).
I used the 3rd hole out from the center on the arms with 4 small holes (as opposed to the 2nd hole which it sounds like you used??).

On the front 2 servos I mounted the balls on the inside (servo side) of the horn as it gave better geometry to the swash, rear was fine on the outside of the horn.

As far as lube I would not suggest a "wet" lube like grease as it will tend to pickup dirt. I use silicone spray on mine. The carrier evaporates and just leaves a dry coating of silicone that doesn't attract dirt like grease or WD40.

The MT is a great flying bird. I like the ease of maint. over my t-rex too.

[randerson07]

I drilled a 3rd hole between the other 2 to mount my HS56 servos on the MT, (.076 imperial IIRC).
I used the 3rd hole out from the center on the arms with 4 small holes (as opposed to the 2nd hole which it sounds like you used??).

On the front 2 servos I mounted the balls on the inside (servo side) of the horn as it gave better geometry to the swash, rear was fine on the outside of the horn.

As far as lube I would not suggest a "wet" lube like grease as it will tend to pickup dirt. I use silicone spray on mine. The carrier evaporates and just leaves a dry coating of silicone that doesn't attract dirt like grease or WD40.

The MT is a great flying bird. I like the ease of maint. over my t-rex too.

I used the 3rd hole on the double sided horn and chopped off the other side. Ill try to drill a hole in the servo mounts and see how that works out.

Ill also give the silicone a try.

Thanks

[randerson07]

Well I took some time last night and adjusted my blade tracking adjusted some links, added some subtrim to get all servos at 90, changed the pitch curves so that it hovers a little after half stick, turned down the thro curves a little, and lubed up my shafts.

WOW this bird is quite a few notches above my B400. I flew them both back to back today and after being able to hover out a whole pack in my garage with the MT, I was not able to hover even for a few minutes with the B400.

I then took them both outside in the wind and was doing awesome with the MT. It reacted just as I wanted it to, except when I got too high and caught some stiff wind, brought her down too fast and broke the landing gear(I ordered a set a couple days ago thinking I might need it lol). I was all over the place with the B400, i think had I flown the B400 first it wouldnt have been so bad. I also have superior electronics in the MT.

I love this thing

[mkoutnik]

Do yourself a favor, get the Gorilla Gear landing gear (http://www.readyheli.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=gorilla). You'll also need the Trex 450 SE aluminum landing skids. I went through 3 sets of the original MT of landing gear in one week. The gorilla gear is indestructible. Only mod I had to do was drill mounting holes for the MT. :D

[randerson07]

After a few good flights, I stuffed her into a snow bank and broke the main blades, landing gear was demolished, and a blade grip. Replaced the landing gear, glued the grip back together(I know bad idea, but all that broke was the little arm the ball screws into) while I wait for my order to come in, and replaced the blades.

On Amains website the stock MT blades are listed as 315mm, so I bought some Align 315mm blades, come to find out they are shorter than the stock MT blades, Im assumed by 10mm. I did a test hover in the garage this morning it seems ok I suppose, but what kind of difference can I expect with shorter blades?

Also do any of you guys fly in the cold? it was -1 today outside but there was zero wind. I really wanted to get out there and get her up in the air rather than a foot off the ground in the garage. But my last cold flight with the Blade 400 was a disaster, the gyro didnt seem to work at all. Can my GY401 handle the cold?

One last question, I have my gyro set at 80% and was getting a little CCW drift, when I try to give a little trim, it seems the gyro exits HH mode and the light starts to blink, to counter act this drift should I just adjust the Link? or do you do your trim adjustments in Rate mode then switch back to HH?

[mkoutnik]

You may also want to check to see if the spindle (feathering) shaft is bent. This will manifest itself as erratic blade tracking issues.

I have used both 315 mm and 325 mm Align wood blades. The stock TT baldes suck. I've not been able to tell a difference in performance from either length.

The 401 should be able to handle the cold. When flying in cold weather uou have to let the heli stabilize to the outside temp. The 401 also needs time to stabilize in cold temps before flying or it will do strange things.

As far as the tail drifting...it's very important to make sure the mechanical set-up is perfect. Hover in rate mode and see if it drifts. If it does land and adjust the length of the tail linkage until there is no drift. Also read these articles...http://www.rchelimag.com/pages/howto.php?howto=14&page=1 and http://www.futaba-rc.com/team/team-tip-002.html

[BarracudaHockey]

The green stuff works good if you put a dab on the motor shaft when you set the pinion gear.

[randerson07]

I did check the feathering shaft by rotating the screw in one of the grips, there was no movement up down, side to side, so It seemed good.

Whats so bad about the stock blades? they seemed to work well? Im too new to really notice the small stuff yet. Ill be ordering 325mm blades next time as they will fit both of my birds well.

I do let the entire helli RTF minus power on, sit outside for a good 10-15 before I fly, with both birds. So tomorrow if its not windy, Ill take her outside and give it a whirl.

Good reading in those Articles, ive got some work to do lol.

[mkoutnik]

I think the stock blades look cheesy and not to mention, mine were horribly out of balance right out of the box. I've been very happy with the Align 325 mm wood blades (and they're cheaper than the stock TT blades.) Check this...http://www.helidirect.com/index.php?cPath=117_120

If you use any other blades than the stock ones, you'll also need the rotor spacers http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=288&products_id=5215

[randerson07]

Ill be placing an order at Amain in the next few days, are those spacers mandatory? Im currently just using some washers I had on hand from some Rc Cars. Ill be grabbing another 2 sets of Align blades in the 325 flavor as well as a boatload of spares and maybe a battery.

[mkoutnik]

Washers will work fine too. The one advantage of spacers is they mount the blade in the middle of the blade grip. Not to mention, I just like the way the spacers look...

[dynodude]

I've been following along here, and have'nt said anything cause you've been getting lots of good advise from everyone. But one thing I must speak up about is after your last crash you said you glued the arm back on the main blade grip.:shock: You are flirting with disaster with that! There is NO way I would fly that heli. Not only are you risking another crash and destroying your heli, but personal injury as well if/when that grip arm lets go. Do yourself a favor and wait to get new grips, or upgrade to some metal ones.

[randerson07]

I hovered a few packed in my garage today and proceeded to break the landing gear again and I didnt think I came down that hard. I had purchased some Gorilla gear on someones advice I think in this thread. Was pretty darn easy to install, and took my beatings pretty well. But im getting a nasty wobble on spin down.

Any Idea what causes that? I doubt its because I dont have rubber deals on the skids? could it be because the gorilla gear is a little more flexible?

Other than that, I love this thing, everytime I look at my grounded Blade 400(stripped servo) I think to sell it but then Id feel like a quitter lol.

[mkoutnik]

How's you tracking? I had some nasty wobble during spin down due erratic tracking issues because of a bent spindle shaft...

[liaan]

don't worry about wobble... most MT does it..
i just hit throttle hold now... (while still in air)
you will notice that there no wobble when on soft service, ie gras etc. only happens on hard surfaces.

L:

[randerson07]

I fixed the wobble my tracking was off and my blade grips I think were too loose. But I have a new issue. I have 3 batteries, 2 are Thunder power Pro Lite 2100 15c packs and one is an Eflite 1800 20c pack.

When using the elfite pack which weighs in at .35lbs on my postal scale at work the Heli is very controlable and the tail holds rock solid. It also seems to have a slightly lower Head Speed.

When using the TP(which weigh in at .33lbs) packs the heli seems like its on Edge and the tail does not want to hold well at all. The Head Speed also seems drastically higher than when using the Eflite pack.

Is it the wt that is causing the difference? I assume the Head Speed difference is because the TP packs probably pack a little more voltage?

The thing will Hover Hands off for around 6 seconds with the Eflite pack, I cant get it to settle down with the TP packs long enough to let go of the sticks.

[ghtracey]

I'm not positive, but 2100 15C only gives you 32A available power, the 1800 gives you 36A. The ESC/Motor can pull 40A continuous and burst higher. I think you are underpowering your ESC.

[randerson07]

hmm, that stinks. I bought these batteries on the suggestion of my LHS. I just got my Tax Return, Ill be sure to pick up some 25C batteries as well as probably a bigger heli.

[ghtracey]

hmm, that stinks. I bought these batteries on the suggestion of my LHS. I just got my Tax Return, Ill be sure to pick up some 25C batteries as well as probably a bigger heli.

Maybe find someone with a bigger bat and borrow it to test? Like I said I'm not positive that's your problem, but it may be.

You don't need 25C either. FP Evo Lite 2500 18C would give you a bit more flight time....

Edit: multiply the Ah by the C rating to get max continuous output.