skunkworx
01-30-2008, 03:08 AM
After working on my buddy's ACP for quite some time now, I've figured out a few things that might help out the new guys (and maybe the vets too!) with their helis.
First off, the stock ACP flies pretty well once you get it dialed in at least half-way decent and I do belive it will fly light 3D with a little bit of patience.
First, as to the parts mentioned, the dampeners from the V-1 trex head can be used in place of the stock ACP ones (don't really know if this will help with saving some cah, but they fit great!). I haven't checked the length of the feathering shaft on the ACP, but I belive it is the same length & diameter as the Trex V1. I'll report my findings on this later (don't have it sitting in front of me right now)
Second, after my buddy had his heli for a bit, I kept getting it back for repairs and the best darn thing I've ever found to upgrade this little heli is to stick some 'bump resistant' Trex450 landing gear onto it!!!! Reasons for doing so;
A: it only costs $7.00
B: it significantly stiffens up the frame resulting in super stable flight
C: They look really, REALLY COOL!!!! (the silver chrome looks nice, but the have a bunch of colors
D: They are waaaaay stronger than the stock ones
E: They are a bit taller allowing for the tail to stay out of the grass/dirt/carpet/concrete cracks etc..... = GOOD!
F: they have a antenna holder on the top of the legs keeping it away from the heli. Just put the tube through the holes and wrap the rest around the skids
And reason G: JUST ORDER A SET ALREADY!!!!
*note-in order to install, they are a bit wider than the stock skids (the holes) so you'll have to pull the frames apart gently and use the screws off your stock skids to bolt them in (don't bother with the screws that come with them, they are too short,but they can be used to thread the new LG for the stock flat tipped screws that you will put in). You don't have to take the heli apart, but you might have to pull a little hard. The other upside to this, is it gives you a little more room in the battery compartment so you don't feel like the plastic will be ripped off your battery pack.
After installing, you can pretty much trash the training skids because you pobably won't need them! If you must use them, you'll have to use zip ties to hold it on because the Trex skids are a bit bigger around than th ACP skids
Lastly, I'd like to addess the serious twitchy servo problem I've seen in all of these helis. Most of them have the Antenna wrapped around the right skid (looking at it from the tail). This is a big problem because the motor wires are on that side (your's might be different of course!) and if you just leave them there, you'll get tons of glitching and lots of un-needed servo movement (remember, any extra power taken away from the battery robs you of flight times or even flight itself!). So to better eliminate the problem, re-route thew wire to the other side of the heli and it should clear up a lot of headaches. If that doesn't work or completely eliminate the problem, you can add a ferrite ring to your heli and that should seal the deal (unless you are standing next to a power line of cellphone tower!)
I'll re-post any tips or updates to this thread if I find them. Happy crashi.....I mean flying!!!:shock::lol:
First off, the stock ACP flies pretty well once you get it dialed in at least half-way decent and I do belive it will fly light 3D with a little bit of patience.
First, as to the parts mentioned, the dampeners from the V-1 trex head can be used in place of the stock ACP ones (don't really know if this will help with saving some cah, but they fit great!). I haven't checked the length of the feathering shaft on the ACP, but I belive it is the same length & diameter as the Trex V1. I'll report my findings on this later (don't have it sitting in front of me right now)
Second, after my buddy had his heli for a bit, I kept getting it back for repairs and the best darn thing I've ever found to upgrade this little heli is to stick some 'bump resistant' Trex450 landing gear onto it!!!! Reasons for doing so;
A: it only costs $7.00
B: it significantly stiffens up the frame resulting in super stable flight
C: They look really, REALLY COOL!!!! (the silver chrome looks nice, but the have a bunch of colors
D: They are waaaaay stronger than the stock ones
E: They are a bit taller allowing for the tail to stay out of the grass/dirt/carpet/concrete cracks etc..... = GOOD!
F: they have a antenna holder on the top of the legs keeping it away from the heli. Just put the tube through the holes and wrap the rest around the skids
And reason G: JUST ORDER A SET ALREADY!!!!
*note-in order to install, they are a bit wider than the stock skids (the holes) so you'll have to pull the frames apart gently and use the screws off your stock skids to bolt them in (don't bother with the screws that come with them, they are too short,but they can be used to thread the new LG for the stock flat tipped screws that you will put in). You don't have to take the heli apart, but you might have to pull a little hard. The other upside to this, is it gives you a little more room in the battery compartment so you don't feel like the plastic will be ripped off your battery pack.
After installing, you can pretty much trash the training skids because you pobably won't need them! If you must use them, you'll have to use zip ties to hold it on because the Trex skids are a bit bigger around than th ACP skids
Lastly, I'd like to addess the serious twitchy servo problem I've seen in all of these helis. Most of them have the Antenna wrapped around the right skid (looking at it from the tail). This is a big problem because the motor wires are on that side (your's might be different of course!) and if you just leave them there, you'll get tons of glitching and lots of un-needed servo movement (remember, any extra power taken away from the battery robs you of flight times or even flight itself!). So to better eliminate the problem, re-route thew wire to the other side of the heli and it should clear up a lot of headaches. If that doesn't work or completely eliminate the problem, you can add a ferrite ring to your heli and that should seal the deal (unless you are standing next to a power line of cellphone tower!)
I'll re-post any tips or updates to this thread if I find them. Happy crashi.....I mean flying!!!:shock::lol: