head dampeners

[Joel Mann]

what dampeners are you running?? I'm running 710 V BLADES on my machines.. I'm running a two dot in the middle and a no dot to the outside...

[DavidH]

My opinion, if your going to use two different durometer dampeners. I prefer to use the harder of the two on the outside and the softer on the inside.
The two dot is harder durometer than the no dot.


David

[cdrking]

I just switched to two dots on all four. It works great very stiff and yet no wobble when the headspeed comes down after an auto. I do a lot of autos so I was a bit skeptical of the lower headspeeds but it works great.

Jeff

[Joel Mann]

David
when using all four two dots, the head shakes real bad on autos..

[EricLarson]

Hi Joel. Use the harder one on the outside. The harder oring will keep the shim from wearing into the rubber quite as quick and the dampeners will last longer. I also run 4 double white dot's. Sometimes my heli will wobble a bit for the first flight, but after that it is fine.

If it continues to wobble, you need to check your static tracking and or balance. To check the static tracking spool it up on a hard surface and then let it spin down. Me sure the distance from the ground to the blade tips and it should be the same. If that is ok and the shake is still there, swap blades and check again.

Worst case it may wobble some at low head speeds. If you watch closely to a lot of top pilots on their 90 size machines you will see that they sometimes wobble a bit at the bottom of an auto. To get the quick response and straight tracking the head needs to be fairly hard and the spindle needs to be held straight.

MA is working on some new dampeners. They will be different than we have now and look like they should work very well. It is a little ways off in the future right now though.

[WillJames]

Cool tips and info Eric, thank you!! MA is always improving their stuff, gotta love that!

[DavidH]

Joel,
When the dampening is tight, it is normal for the wobble to appear when the rotor rpm reaches a certain rpm.

For example, when setting up the dampening in my F3C models. I get the dampening in the head as hard and tight as I can and still hover the model at around 1450 rpm. If I hover below 1450 the wobble will appear.

Check the static tracking as Eric suggested.
Also on the blade axle, the piece of tubing that is in center of the axle. I only use a piece that is approx 1/2 inch long. If it is too long it will not allow the axle to teeter. If the axle can't teeter, then that will cause a wobble also. Make sure the piece of tubing is directly in the center of the axle.

David

[Dr.3D]

Hi Eric,
i have read that you use 4 doble white dots rubber O-rings, can you tell me how many shims do you use on your haed?
Can you alse tell me the Ma part number of rubber O-rings(2 white dot)


thanks
Andrea

[Robert Johns]

I use 4 double white dot O-rings also. You should use one medium shim - the durometer of the double whites (90) can make it difficult to use any more shims and are not necessary. If you try to use more, the C-clip may not remain in the spindle groove.

I'm not sure about the part number for the O-rings. Just call MA and they will have the part number ready for you.

-robert

[wattybotts]

I am still playing around with it, but at the moment I am running the 2 dots on the outside and the mediums (no dots) on the inside. I am then using a thick and medium shim on each side. I am running the 710 V Blades as well and it bites very well.

Thanks to BEAST for the help on the head. :smokin:

Bobby

[Joel Mann]

Thanks David and Eric for the info..