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cbergen
02-04-2008, 08:19 PM
I'll give this a try, the last build I did had to be erased from "the other forum" but was hugely popular.

Maybe Finless Bob would be a better candidate for this, but I hear he only works in video. :)

When you open your kit box, you'll find some paperwork. (darn, this is supposed to be a hobby...) This paperwork is your warranty registration and your inventory sheet. You'll also find a CD with your assy manual and parts listing with a detailed picture of each part by part # and description.

Please, I'm already beginning to lose my hair, do the inventory FIRST! Make sure that we, as human beings, did not forget something. After you complete the inventory, sign it and return it in the SAE. If you find something missing, go ahead and complete the inventory anyway, THEN call me for any missing items. That way we can get everything in your hands in only one additional mailing.

OK, end of soapbox. Lets take a look at what comes in the kit, and maybe more importantly, what does NOT.....

In the attached pic, If you look REALLY close, you'll find a fibreglass canopy, Colored landing gear of your choice, G10 frames, ALL metal head Including blade grips, driven tail system, ALL aluminum tail including the Magnum tail gearbox, tail blade grips with improved geometry, and an extremely robust tail hub.

The drive train consists of a 2 stage belt system, allowing for very easy and almost infinite changes to the final gear ratio, which will depend on your choice of motor and battery size. For now, the motor, ESC and Batteries are NOT included....

I will post a chart on our website, showing the suggested motors, batteries, and the gear ratios associated with those choices.

As it is right now we have, or are going to, test the Neu Motors 1912/1Y/H on 10s and 12s, the Plettenburg 370 on 10s and 12s, and the Actro 32-4 on 10s and 12s.

Main Rotor Blades are also not included, but here are your suggested options, 810mm V-Blades, MAH 810mm blades, or NHP 800mm blades. We'll test this bird with each brand of blade, checking smoothness of flight, stability, and weightlifting.

I haven't decided if tailblades are included or not, as the only option right now are the V-Blades 110mm or Radix Blades of the same size.

Of course radio gear is also not included, servos, gyro, Tx and Rx, and associated battery are all needed, preferably obtained BEFORE assy begins!!

In my Magnum Tazer I'm running JR 8717 servos on a 6 volt high current system from Duralite. This takes out the worry of any voltage drops affecting the gyro or the Spektrum 2.4 Ghz Rx I am using.

On this bird I'll install JR 8311's on the cyclics and a JR 8611 on the collective. These are well known and proven servos, if you prefer Futaba, TOO BAD!! (JK Mark..:)..) I do like the 9252's on cyclics and the 9255 on collective.

I'll also be trying out the Kontronic Jazz ESC along with the Plettenburg 370 in this machine. I am fairly new to E-Power, so bear with me....Luckily I have the help (and pushing) of people like Greg Alderman, Larry Chapman, and Darryl Sprayberry to guide me along. On that note, these three are true ambassadors of the hobby, not expecting anything, just wanting to help improve what has come before. Thank you guys for leading me(kicking and screaming) to the world of E-Power.

Maxists The Baddist
02-05-2008, 12:02 PM
Is this a new first electric heli from you? I couldn't find any information on it on the Bergen website.

cbergen
02-05-2008, 12:05 PM
It is new. Greg has been flying the prototypes for some time now. We'll be adding it to the website shortly....Meantime, keep an eye here for all the good stuff. :)

Blackout
02-05-2008, 12:12 PM
Subscribed........

Looking forward to your build.

wren1702
02-05-2008, 12:25 PM
Whoops, my son was logged in.......

He's looking forward as well though! :thumbup::YeaBaby:

Did Greg get his going again?

Greg Alderman
02-05-2008, 05:32 PM
now dag nab it! What are you bringing that up for Alan! LOL! no...just haven't have time to even replace the spindle yet...haven't fixed my Trex600 either! Chris got a big kick out of the fact that I managed to crash twice and not have the transmitter turned on even 2 total minutes!!!!

I have a New Nue motor to put in when I do get a chance to work on it....Also will be changing out the Gy-611 for a Spartan 760 that Mark Webber dropped off at my house this morning! (THANKS MARK!) I was going to pull the 760 off my Trex600 to try on the "Tazer" but now I don't have too! :D

cbergen
02-05-2008, 06:14 PM
It's helpful to have all the radio gear in one place when putting this thing together, here's what I'm going to use.

You'll notice the large JR wheels. Malorie came up with some new dimensions for the balls on the servo wheels that put your ATV's at 100% in all controls. You can go higher to increase the throws for the extreme in cyclic setup. These new dimensions allow for a more balanced feel between elevator and aileron. We'll cover that more during setup, and this can also be applied to the other Intrepid models.

Greg Alderman
02-05-2008, 08:02 PM
Looking good Chris! Can't wait to see the 800 in person!

Can you tell us a little more about the motor and ESC?

Sorry about the small hijack above with Alan and I...

cbergen
02-05-2008, 08:28 PM
The motor we'll be using in this Tazer 800 is the Plettenburg 370 40 A2.

The ESC is the Kontronic Jazz 63V. Both of these items are monsters, obviously designed for HD use.

The Pletti has an internal cooling fan, the Jazz ESC has an integrated cooling fan placed on top of a large heatsink. Looks similar to the system on the High End Video card I put in my home computer for playing games!

I doubt either one will have heat problems, even at IRCHA in August!! :)

mrradman
02-06-2008, 11:38 AM
Chris,

I'd appreciate the new data that Malore has on the servo wheel setups.

Thanks

Greg Alderman
02-06-2008, 04:44 PM
mrradman...PM me your email and I will send it to you...

cbergen
02-09-2008, 09:35 PM
Couple of quick additions, then the meat of the matter.

Tha landing gear crossovers do require some heat to slide them onto the skids. I have gotten them hot enough to take on a shiny sheen, then slide them in to place being careful to slide them on straight. If they get hard to move before you get them in to the proper location, heat 'em up again!!

Tap the plugs into the ends with a well used Rawhide mallet....:) Kidding, any soft mallet should work fine.

cbergen
02-09-2008, 09:52 PM
The lower frames are G10. Built up into the proper structure, they are light weight and strong, but with some "give" to absorb the occasional hard landing or minor incident with Mother Earth.

Obviously nothing is indestructable, but there are a lot of times that our frames are NOT required to be replaced in a crash. Always inspect them regardless, any cracks found would require replacement. And at only $24.00 a piece, it won't break the bank like carbon...

cbergen
02-09-2008, 10:04 PM
A neat little item is the switch plate (some heli's seem to forget this), it sits in the unused throttle servo hole. It can take the HD switched such as the one from Duralite as well.

The elevator servo sits opposite the switch in the lower frames. Note the relief cut into the frames for the rib on the servo tabs.

We also supply you with plastic servo mount tabs that are installed into the rubber grommets on the servo. Your JR servo screws or 2.5mm SHCS thread into them nicely. The Futaba screws are too small however, so you have to use the machine screws. Let us know if you need them when ordering your kit.

cbergen
02-09-2008, 10:09 PM
I like to build the rest of the heli on the landing gear, it gives me a good solid base to work with.

You'll notice I have the landing gear reversed from the pics of the yellow geared Tazer, This bird will have the longer boom, longer blades, carrying payloads, and I want the footprint of the landing gear a little farther to the rear. They work fine either way, your choice.

cbergen
02-09-2008, 10:42 PM
The motor mount is from 1/4" aluminum, makes for a solid, no flex mount. This one is specifically for the Plettenburg motor with the 6 holes. Most other motors mounts will have 4 holes equally spaced.

The heavy motor sits toward the rear of the frames, offsetting the batteries toward the front, making it easy to CG the heli.

The front pinion shaft is a hardened 6mm shaft with the flats for the pulleys already ground in, large bearings top and bottom in ALUMINUM blocks are used for durability and longevity.

A 9mm "never ending" belt with fibreglass tension cords is used for strength, setting the tension is easily accomplished by sliding the motor mount plate forward and aft.

Note the large washers used for non slip holding of the adjustment without crushing the G10.

cbergen
02-10-2008, 10:54 AM
Next up are the upper frames, also from G10. It's easier to install the collective servo now, but not impossible to do later, just have to wiggle it in there. Using the same plastic servo mount tabs, and in this case, the 2.5mm SHCS. Note that the larger servos such as the 8611 will fit with no problem.

Be sure to install the collective axles now, into the bearings placed into the frames. A little helpful hint is to run a drop of ca(super glue) around the perimeter of the bearing, preferably on the inside of the frames, to secure them permanently to the frames.

This is a TRUE push pull system for the collective, not some add on that is only push pull from the servo to a bellcrank, it's a fully closed loop system all the way to the swashplate. The collective system is also balanced at the pivot point, so a super strong servo is not needed. There are quite a few Industrial Birds out there using analog JR 4721 servos which are rated at 119 oz/in at 4.8 volts.

When installing the opposite half upper frame, it doesn't hurt to relieve the frame where the servo wire exits the servo.

cbergen
02-10-2008, 11:03 AM
The elevator yoke is an integral part of the elevator push pull system and the collective push pull system.

The collective servo simply pushes the whole unit up and down, the elevator servos tilts it fore and aft.

Now the upper frames are placed onto the lowers, starting with installing bolts through the pinion shaft bearing block then installing the frame spacers to secure the whole assy.

cbergen
02-10-2008, 11:27 AM
Assembly of the front transmission is next, proper care taken here will lead to a very reliable tail drive system.

Note the vertical slots in the front of the transmission cage. This is what allows the mesh to be properly set between the bevel gear and the crown gear.

Slide the shaft into the bearings preinstalled into the cage, through the brass spacer, and into the bevel gear. Line up the setscrew hole in the bevel gear with the divot in the shaft. Install the setscrew with loctite to secure.

Slide the delrin coupler onto the shaft, lining up the cross pin hole. I use the 1.5mm driver to ensure lineup and remove any plastic from the hole. If the hole won't lineup so that you can push the cross pin in with finger pressure, it is feasable to sand the front end of the coupler slightly to acheive the proper lineup. It should not take much. You should not have excessive back and forth movement, and you should not have to press the cross pin into place. This may place undue stress on the shaft, causing it to fracture at the hole.

Secure the pin with a setscrew, installed from inside the coupler. After installing the setscrew with loctite, try to push the pin out. This ensures the setscrew is actually holding the pin!

cbergen
02-10-2008, 11:33 AM
The front transmission is only half of the equation. It engages the lower mainshaft bearing block in a dovetail. Again note the slots for vertical adjustment.

Even though it's not installed at this time, you can assemble the dogbone unit, inserting the cross pin and installing the setscrew from INSIDE the dogbone with loctite.

j_kookboy
02-11-2008, 12:29 AM
Chris,

What will be the AUW with & w/o lipo's ?

Thanks
Jesse

cbergen
02-11-2008, 12:38 PM
My Tazer weighs in at 10.5 with the 5350 5s batteries.

The Tazer 800 will be slightly more w/ the long boom/blades and 6s...

cbergen
02-11-2008, 06:42 PM
Front transmission and lower mainshaft bearing block installed.

Here's what it's supposed to look like to this point with upper and lower bearing blocks installed and elevator yoke in the middle.

cbergen
02-11-2008, 10:22 PM
The Tail servo is mounted just under the boom, but is still attached to the frames.

The boom clamps actually clamp the boom without requiring the addition of tape or sandpaper for a solid, no slip affair.

cbergen
02-11-2008, 10:28 PM
A gyro mount is included in the kit, no need to guess where to put your favorite gyro.

This angle mounted plate is also an ideal place to mount the second 2.4 ghz receiver.