No BEC confirmation..

[bpd964]

Just wondering.. I Have the H550 with 3x futaba 3050's for cyclic and a Gy401 / 9650 for the tail.. DX7-AR7000 , z30a 1100, align 75a esc, gaui carbon blades (500mm).. 2 x KP 2200/25c / soon to try out the FP evo's 3300..

Since everything I am using is 6v capable, do I really need a BEC?

Thanks

[mjdee14]

Just wondering.. I Have the H550 with 3x futaba 3050's for cyclic and a Gy401 / 9650 for the tail.. DX7-AR7000 , z30a 1100, align 75a esc, gaui carbon blades (500mm).. 2 x KP 2200/25c / soon to try out the FP evo's 3300..

Since everything I am using is 6v capable, do I really need a BEC?

Thanks

Not sure exactly what your asking.....people & HS kind of throw BEC out as a general term.... A true BEC hooks up to the main batteries and reduces the 22v or 11v down to 6v for the servos and gyro.

A "voltage regulator" usually has a separate battery like a 2s lipo and reduces the 7.2v down to 5 or 6 v and ONLY runs the reciever and radio components, not the motor.

I believe the align ESC does not have a built in BEC so you will either need a separate BEC or a regulator, but you will need something to run the radio.


Did i misunderstand the question...or was that what you were looking for?

Align also makes a step down regulator that goes between the regulator and the tail servo to drop the voltage for servos unable to handle 6v.

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=93&products_id=1438

see the above...for the life of me I don't see why they call it a BEC...it is not "Eliminating" a battery...you must use a flight pack battery with it.

A true BEC (battery eliminator circuit) would tap of the motor batteries to power the radio.

ALSO...be careful with the 2200 running the 1100kv motor...it's an "amp hog" and may toast you lipos if pushed too hard...if your going to keep the 1100...the 3300's will be your best bet.

[bpd964]

I was under the impression that a BEC was used to keep the current down when servos weren't able to handle 6 volt.. and the rx and all servos would get power from the main battery pack instead of using a separate pack.. I could totally be wrong that's why I am trying to get some clarification...

all my servos can handle 6 volts so I was thinking that there was no need for a separate bec and battery pack to run the servos and rx because it could all run off the power of the main battery..

[mjdee14]

http://www.deeteeenterprises.com/NS.T.Rex.600.ESC.BEC.php

Go to the above page and read the left side on the bottom...it states the "user must provide regularot to power for the radio, NO BEC included".


A BEC in the ESC creates more heat and usually can't handle too much of a radio load...so it's easier to use a separate BEC or regulator.

You will need a regulator and battery or a a true BEC to hook up to the main lipos.... Using 2200's I would opt for the 2s 1000 or higher lipo and regulator. The 2200 are going to be real marginal with the 1100 kv motor. You might puff them if pushed too hard. it's why everyone is switching to the Z20 that isn't into hard 3D.

Mike d

[bpd964]

Ok, I am going to read a little more on this stuff and I am starting to see the concept already.. Thank you for the help...

[mjdee14]

Look on page 9 in te 550 manual....it has a diagram..

If you don't have it it can be downloaded here

http://www.skyhobbies.com.sg/HURRICANE_550/Hurricane550_manual.pdf

[slo_dave]

Bob has got a great video called:

BEC 101
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=55538

[bpd964]

Thanks.. ordered a CC bec...

[istandalone]

imho using a bec (oh alright, a regulator with external 2 cell lipo) is better because if you have a main lipo pack failure when in the air, you'll still have full swash and tail power.

[mjdee14]

imho using a bec (oh alright, a regulator with external 2 cell lipo) is better because if you have a main lipo pack failure when in the air, you'll still have full swash and tail power.

I agree with the above....nice to know exactly how much power you have for the radio....

The 550 uses so much power as it is...don't need more of a drain for the radio.

[istandalone]

check these packs out. they fit perfectly underneath the plastic frame between the edges. some velcro and a strap. i'm not a big fan of electrifly lipos, but for the servos and gyro it's more then fine.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNYK6&P=7
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/g/gpmp0721.jpg

[bpd964]

I guess I could use my spare TP 2100 15c for that.. It's really pretty thin and I also have a spare 3s/800mah sitting collecting dust. Question is, how do I wire that up? Do I have to put one of those little servo plugs on that guage wire?

As a matter of fact, I could use the little 4 cell pack that came with my DX7..

BUT HOW?

[mjdee14]

http://www.readyheli.com/K10336TA_3A_External_BEC_w_5_1V_Step_Down_Voltage_ p/k10336ta.htm

http://www.readyheli.com/Western_Robotics_Hercules_5amp_5_AMP_Battery_Elimi _p/wrl-hbechv.htm

see the two links above.....the first one is the typical Gaui or Align type of regulator (BEC) that runs on a separate 2s lipo to power the radio/servos/gyro. it comes all wired with a jst connector for the battery. I'm using a TP1320 2s pack with mine.

The second link is for a true BEC unit that you wire in to your main packs and it will drop the 22v down to power the radio system and then you do not require a separate packs for the radio....

They both have benefits....first...you have power even if your main batterys go out.

Second one....less hassle worrying about charging a flight pack battery and less electrical items to possibly break or go wrong.


I like the first one and it is nice to work on the heli and make adjustments without have the motor armed and possibly start.

I usuall can get 5 flights before I even start to see the lights going out. The fisrt one has 4 green lights that start to go out as your pack voltage drops....its' like a gas gauge.

[bpd964]

Thank you very much for taking the time to help me out. I appreciate it!

Once I get all wired up, I'll post some pics..

Thanks again..

[istandalone]

I like the first one and it is nice to work on the heli and make adjustments without have the motor armed and possibly start.


that's another huge + in my opinion. you can fully set up your swash and tail throws on the bench without haveing to unplug your motor or worrying about it spooling up ect. piece of mind .

[Pinecone]

I just put a Deans Micro connector inline from teh main Deans to the BEC. Then for bench work I can just plug a small pack into the heli and not worry about the motor powering up.