View Full Version : HB King V2 Head Setup - Question

02-10-2008, 06:20 PM
Sorry to ask for so much, but I have replaced the spindle shaft, flybar and one pitch control arm on my King V2 (see photo below) and am purely having fits trying to set up the head properly. Can anyone run through the head set up from soup to nuts?



02-13-2008, 03:12 AM
I see you didn't get any takers on the soup to nuts request. That could be a long post and most of this is already covered in the manual. I hate to see this one hanging out there. Perhaps we can help if you give a description of your current issue.

02-13-2008, 01:02 PM
General rule of thumb...Start with the servos with the arms at exactly 90 deg with the pitch curve set in normal starting at 50 with the stick down. level the swash and adjust all the links so that all the arms(washout and hiller) are exactly horizontal with the fly bar horizontal(0 deg pitch). Adjust the the blade grips to be at 0 deg with the flybar at 0 deg. The flybar control arms should be at 0 deg and inline with each other. Start there and then mount and track the blades. Adjust as needed.

02-15-2008, 12:43 PM
Hopefully this will help. I've copy/pasted this a few times; one more won't hurt.
The first step is setting pitch range. I'll assume you have a pitch
gauge and know how to use it. The swashplate should also be level at
this point.

Something to check: Lay a ruler or straightedge against the top of each blade to check for "bowing" - very common in stock wood blades. Bowing can lead to decreased lift and increased difficulty tracking the blades. For best results, use the straightest blades possible.

-Disconnect motor from ESC
-TX on; connect heli battery
-Set both pitch knobs to center; switch to idle up
-Move the throttle to center, measure pitch of each blade; should be
--Shorten the long pitch links to reduce pitch; lengthen to increase
until both blades are right at 0
-Throttle to low, measure pitch; throttle to high, measure pitch
--Should be even throw - around -8 - -9 to +8 - +9
--If the range is too high (e.g. -7 - +11) the swashplate needs to
be lowered; too low (e.g. -12 - +6) the swash needs to be raised
--Shorten or lengthen the servo-to-swash links EVENLY (same number of turns on each link) and repeat the
whole process starting from 0 at center stick (yes, this can get REAL
tedious, but a good setup from the start pays huge dividends in the
way the heli flies)

Now's a good time to set your flybar paddles. Put throttle to center, idle up, blades at 0, and loosening grub screws as necessary, get the flybar control arms aligned so that if they were one piece, they'd make a level square around the hub. Twist the paddles so that they are level with the flybar, flybar control arms, and blades at 0.

(Another thing - after setting range and pitch, with motor still unplugged, swash level - move the throttle stick slooowwwlly all the way up and down several times. Check that the swash stays perfectly level all through the range. Variations in swash levelness could indicate binding or bad servos. This is how I tracked down a mysterious drifting problem I had with the King. One servo wasn't moving at exactly the same rate as the others, and the swash was tilting at certain points in the range.)

You may end up going through 2 or more packs getting it all zeroed in.

You should end up with about -9 - +9 with 0 at center stick in idle
up. Now we can get to tracking.

-Designate one blade as "master". I use the one with the tracking
marks - easy to remember. Mark the blade grip too in case you need to
remove and reinstall the blades later
-Get the master as close to absolute 0 as you can in center-stick,
idle up using the long pitch links. You should be done with swash
-Unplug heli; switch idle up back to normal; turn off tx
-Reconnect motor
-Make sure the tx is in normal mode, throttle low, knobs centered
-Turn on tx; plug in heli
-Secure the heli or hold it in your hand if you like to live
dangerously (not recommended, but whattya gonna do?)
-Spin it up to about 60% - about where it wants to lift off
-Adjust the other blade to the master until they rotate on the same
-You're finally done

Using the "master blade" approach ensures you don't screw up the
pitch range after a few tracking adjustments. When tracking starts to
go out, the procedure is:
-Adjust master blade to 0 at center stick, idle up, motor
-Track the other blade to the master at 60%/liftoff throttle in normal mode

It's a "royal" pain, but worth it when you see the heli just hanging
there, majestically awaiting your command to crash.

Then you can do it all over again.

02-19-2008, 03:27 PM
there's also a setup video of the HBK2 on youtube

08-20-2008, 01:46 AM
Sorry not have thanked everyone for their replies earlier.

I did manage to get the King more or less flyable. Of course I took every opportunity to then crash it so I could repair it some more!

After devoting lots of time to the Blade CP Pro and repairing my Trex 450SE I am ready to build the King yet again. This time it will have CNC swash and washout block and arms and tail. Also swapping the JGF 400HD for a tamer Esky 3100 that I hope will give me longer flight times. I'm not a hot enough pilot to need the 400 motor.

I will also say that learning to set up the head on the 450 should give me insight along the lines so generously stated above. Thanks again to all!

08-20-2008, 07:45 AM
The 3100 with an 11T pinion will provide a good balance of power for sport flying and good flight times. I get 10 minutes of FFF with a 1500 15C battery on a mostly stock setup with that motor pinion combo and about 500g AUW.

08-21-2008, 07:42 AM
I had problems with my 3100, it would stutter at start up. I read some other posts of people having the same problem. Just thought I'd let you know my experience with it. I took mine out and put a 3800 in and it runs much better. My $.02.

08-21-2008, 12:00 PM
Apparently the 3100 is discontinued because of the 'stutter' problem... junky motor to begin with.

Zen... its all about setup setup setup... I setup my heli... take it for a fly.. crash it into a tree or other non-moving object so I can go back to setup again... :woohoo

BTW drop either a 3900 or the 3800Kv motor in it. The 3800 has more power over the 3900. But the 3900 drops right in with no frame mods and is strong enough to give you some good flight times. Just put a decent esc in with either of these motors. Not an Esky esc if you can help it... 25A min but 30A preferred.

happy fly'n

08-21-2008, 04:32 PM
Yes, I heard the most recent batch of 3100 motors have the sudden-start timing. I have two 3100 motors and one may be an earlier vintage. Don't know for sure. There is an Esky 3800 on the electronics shelf but it would take some frame trimming to fit and I don't want to weaken the frame.

I will try the older 3100 first and see how it does. (My Park 370 BM in the Blade CP Pro is fast-starting too. Wish it were more tame at low stick but it does the job.) I also have a Century inrunner that was on the heli when I got it that can do the job. Maybe a smaller pinion will let me run it at better efficiency. It tends to get hot but has very adequate power. The JGF 400HD is too much.

08-21-2008, 06:22 PM
Ya know, I really didn't remove that much frame for the 3800; just a little of the lip where the wires come out and a little grinding at the back. Survived several bad crashes (pilot learning, er pilot error) without frame damage.

08-22-2008, 01:44 PM
True.. not a lot of material is removed but the less the better on an already weak frame to begin with. The small amount of lip there does offer some tension, torsional whateve support and with it removed it will make it weaker.

Its probably over stated about the weakness you are imparting by removing material but Esky will ignore rather than improve. I think its a reminder more than a warning when talking about the 3800 mods needed.

Happy fly'n

08-23-2008, 12:35 AM
I have a thick frame stiffener that entirely fills the well where the stock motor goes. With the stiffener in place the 3800 motor fits without modding the frame.

Questions: what are benefits of the 3800 over the 3100? (I want to use 3s 1320 mah li-po's.)

What pinion(s) should I think about for sport flying and beginning aerobatics such as loops and rolls? This might be a drop-in installation.

Now that one Trex is flying well I want to put the King together and fly it some more too.

08-23-2008, 12:40 PM
Avoid the 3100 as it has issues and is way under-powered. The 3800Kv has more power than the 3900 and so would be a good choice for more aggressive fly'n. Put an 11T pinion on it, a 10T will do as well if you have one kicking around.

this help???

happy fly'n

08-23-2008, 01:19 PM
Hi Dawg

thanks for the words of wit and wisdom. Based on what you say, I am thinking of the 3100 instead of the 3800. Here's why: I've flown the JGF 400HD and it is just too hot for me at my present state of skill. I'm a sport flyer who might get around to a loop or a roll one day. Flight time interests me more than punch.

I have a lot of motors to put in the King: 3100, JGF 400, 3800, Century inrunner; if I don't like how one works I can always swap it for another.

I might get the King together this weekend. I just came back from flying the Trex 450SE, which is working nicely at the moment.

08-24-2008, 11:26 AM
Zen.. Oh for sure if you have a few motors kick'n around all the better. Its not like its that hard to swap out a motor on the K2's... 5 min. :thumbup:

Thats the nice thing about K2... cheap enough for repairs, repairing and when they hit the ground or a tree going 50 then you don't have to really worry about picking up ALL the pieces... :D

Maybe you can answer a question for me... What is the length of the control rods for adjusting pitch on the Trex you have. Would like to make a turnbuckle for them.


happy fly'n

08-24-2008, 09:55 PM
... What is the length of the control rods for adjusting pitch on the Trex you have. Would like to make a turnbuckle for them.

Dawg I can think of no more worthy cause than turnbuckle links for the Trex. (Only a King pilot knows about them!) Well, Align sez those links should be 42 mm between the centers of the holes in the link ends. Mine seem to be about 41.33 mm or so and I have to confess that positive and negative pitch are not equal on my bird. (Yet.) If you come up with turnbuckle links for this put me first on your list of customers.

Estarter made me realize that the 3800 motor I have is a hot rod engine, not the same as the 3900 he uses in a CP2. Guess I'll see if my 3100 motor is manageable.