View Full Version : Hurricane 200 gyro placement
surgicalCFe
02-19-2008, 01:52 PM
Thanks RStacy, makes sense to me but when he said thats how his came from the factory I was beginning to wonder.
sulan
02-19-2008, 02:08 PM
shouldnt the washout mixing arms be 90degrees in neutral position of the servo?
Buzzkill
02-19-2008, 02:10 PM
ROne21, stop by this week and we'll go over your 200. Bring all your gear and parts including the TX and I bet we have it flying in less than 2 hours :thumbup:
Buzzkill
02-19-2008, 02:25 PM
robl:
I didn't weigh the part (wish I would have) but, I dont think its a lot. It's a Align battery tray so maybe the weight is posted somewhere. I've read that people are adding quaters to their noses to get the CG right. I have to think it weighs less than a quater. I am by no means a expert on anything Heli but I do love to fly and tinker with them.
The bigest advantages I can think of is better CG, futher away from the ESC and the ability to adjust the gyro without pulling it out of the frame.
I dont know. You guys tell me. Bad idea? I haven't got to try it yet but I think it's gonna work well. I noticed on a video on the Gaui site that the guys ( not Kyle video although I did try to get a look at his setup in that video to no avail :YeaBaby: ) doing the indoor 3D stuff had their 401 on the nose and the battery centered inside the lower frame tray.
My biggest reason for doing this is because if I have to yank the gyro from inside the frame one more time I'm gonna pull my hair out. :arggg:
if you get a logictech 2100, you won't have to pull it out, I will probbly get it for just that reason. But I mounted my 401 gyro far enough up that I can still get to the switches without pulling the gyro out. Barely but I can get to it.
robl:
I didn't weigh the part (wish I would have) but, I dont think its a lot. It's a Align battery tray so maybe the weight is posted somewhere. I've read that people are adding quaters to their noses to get the CG right. I have to think it weighs less than a quater. I am by no means a expert on anything Heli but I do love to fly and tinker with them.
The bigest advantages I can think of is better CG, futher away from the ESC and the ability to adjust the gyro without pulling it out of the frame.
I dont know. You guys tell me. Bad idea? I haven't got to try it yet but I think it's gonna work well. I noticed on a video on the Gaui site that the guys ( not Kyle video although I did try to get a look at his setup in that video to no avail :YeaBaby: ) doing the indoor 3D stuff had their 401 on the nose and the battery centered inside the lower frame tray.
My biggest reason for doing this is because if I have to yank the gyro from inside the frame one more time I'm gonna pull my hair out. :arggg:
Buzzkill
02-19-2008, 02:28 PM
I'm gonna order the silver CF part for that tray so weight will be less I think.
It doesn't because the upper collar fit is snug due to the main gear but the lower collar should make contact with the lower bearing.
Loosen the upper collar, pull the main shaft up snug and tighten the upper collar. Your links will need to be adjusted for this change.
So how do you get the lower collar to make contact with the lower bearing? On my frame, if I try to get it against the lower bearing, I can screw the set screw in as the lip for the frame is in the way.
rstacy
02-19-2008, 02:48 PM
So how do you get the lower collar to make contact with the lower bearing? On my frame, if I try to get it against the lower bearing, I can screw the set screw in as the lip for the frame is in the way.
While your main shaft is dropped down, Slide the lower collar up as far as it will go. Tighten the set screw. Be careful. They strip easily. The lower collar has a smaller diameter hole and will only slide up so far.
Then raise the main shaft and tighten the upper collar.
Buzzkill
02-19-2008, 02:54 PM
My stock upper collar had two flanges for the main gear bearring and the main bearring. The new parts only has one. Anyone else notice this?
While your main shaft is dropped down, Slide the lower collar up as far as it will go. Tighten the set screw. Be careful. They strip easily. The lower collar has a smaller diameter hole and will only slide up so far.
Then raise the main shaft and tighten the upper collar.
didn't even think of that, good idea. on the ep100 frame, you could just do it afterward.
But what is the point of the lower collar? The shaft is going anywhere with the upper collar tightened.
I can confirm on the stripping of the collar, I stripped the upper one the other night.
rotorhead58d
02-19-2008, 03:05 PM
i have a gy-401 in my trex. when i saw how tiny the 2100t was, i knew it would be perfect for my gaui 200. that 401 looks like a huge boulder inside the frame rails compared to a 2100t...and, no screws to turn. just takes a toothpick to program it after it's in the bird.
rstacy
02-19-2008, 03:05 PM
didn't even think of that, good idea. on the ep100 frame, you could just do it afterward.
But what is the point of the lower collar? The shaft is going anywhere with the upper collar tightened.
Good point. I'm not sure that you would ever notice a difference if you didn't use it.
I wonder if there is room to mount it below the swash plate against the upper bearing. That would take the stress off of the plastic main gear.
sulan
02-20-2008, 06:02 AM
Hi should the washout mixing arms be in 90 degrees at center stick?
Or should i just adjust them so the washout gets as high as possibly at fully stick?
/sulan
surgicalCFe
02-20-2008, 01:15 PM
Hi should the washout mixing arms be in 90 degrees at center stick?
Or should i just adjust them so the washout gets as high as possibly at fully stick?
/sulan
Technically the washout arms should be parallel to each other at center stick on the throttle (or as close as you can get it at least).
rotorhead58d
02-20-2008, 04:00 PM
http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb248/rotorhead58d/?action=view¤t=IMGP0858.jpg
if you look close, you can see the logictech 2100t gyro.
http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb248/rotorhead58d/?action=view¤t=IMGP0857.jpg
sulan
02-21-2008, 01:57 PM
okey thanks :)
sulan
03-18-2008, 01:14 AM
hi
SurfCity
03-18-2008, 01:46 AM
if you look close, you can see the logictech 2100t gyro.
How's that location working out for you? The 2100 manual suggests 10 cm away from the motor, which puts it on the nose of the battery tray.
Has anyone tried sticking the battery to the bottom of the lower tray between the skids? This video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxhSOLmM9ko) of Craig Martin and Bert Kammerer looks like they've done just that.
Serbi
03-19-2008, 05:20 PM
Hi, does anybody have issues with noise from the ESC affecting the 401 gyro? I had the ESC right under the gyro on the bottom of the carbon frame and had a slow but continuous drift. I then moved the gyro to the front, in the frame, right behind the battery and the ESC on the outside of the frame as far back as it would go. I still have that drift, but much slower now. Mechanically everything is fine, the gyro was tested on a Trex 450 and works fine, the 3154 is ok too. Any ideas?
mjr_larkin
03-20-2008, 06:03 AM
How's that location working out for you? The 2100 manual suggests 10 cm away from the motor, which puts it on the nose of the battery tray.
Has anyone tried sticking the battery to the bottom of the lower tray between the skids? This video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxhSOLmM9ko) of Craig Martin and Bert Kammerer looks like they've done just that.
Are they putting the ESC where most of us have the gyro? right under the main rotor