New 90 SE Clutch engaging late

[invrtd]

I have a new SE and it takes forever for the clutch to engage. I have owned many other machines by other manufactures, and it just seems like the clutch is engaging way late. I have around 50 percent throttle before it starts to engage. One way also locked up after 2nd tank of hovering. Was able to get the one way to unlock and it seems OK. One way was clean and lightly lubricated with triflow with teflon before installation. Other than that, she is smooth. Just waiting for the 3D parts for the machine I want to add. Ordered the push pull elevator and collective. Just wondering if I should order the new one way, clutch and bell.

[vandelescrow]

I have not flown my 90 yet, finaly got it built, but when the one way goes I plan to replace it with the QuickUK one.

[LAMAR COOLEY]

Invrtd,
Here is a couple of things you could check.
Your clutch could be draging on the top of the clutch bell.
1.) Did you intstall the "E" clip on the bottom of the start shaft inside the clutch bell ?
2.) If you used the washer on your motor shaft,under the fan remove it.
3.) Check your clutch clearance in the clutch bell. If the gap is to great. Then your clutch has to reach excessive rpm's to engage.
4.) Take a look at the inside top of your clutch bell. Are there signs of the clutch wearing on the inside.
You probably have considered all of the above and checked them out.
Just trying to help resolve the problem.
Hope this is of some small help
Regards

[invrtd]

Thrust washer was not installed when I installed fan so that is not the problem.

E clip was installed.

Will have to check wear on the clutch when I drop the motor.

I like the quick uk upgraded one way but think it is way over priced. I would pay $50 for it but not close to $100. If the one way locks up, it won't stop the bird from flying. It will just drive the main gear during an auto. Might do some research on getting the same sized one way bearing, but from japan or Germany and not china. I am pretty sure the one way is chinese and the quality is hit or miss.

[Kinger]

Hey Clark,

Here's my 2 cents on the clutch engaging too late. From the factory, the gap is too big on the 90SE kits and the clutch bell really should be relined with a new liner. What I do is remove the old liner, put in a new one with a strip of the paper manual behind it and then wrap the clutch with one layer of electrical tape. I put mine in with 30 minute epoxy, but usually I have it set all night just to be on the safe side. The clutch may be a smidge tight at first, but usually after the first flight the gap is MUCH MUCH better. Simple to do and the cost is next to nothing.

As for the autohub, I vote for the Quick UK unit as well. It's not super cheap, but the fact of the matter is it works as advertised. You are right, a locked autohub won't crash your machine, but it certainly doesn't help you much when you are shooting inverted autos :)

Mike

[Laurens]

Did you degrease your stock oneway? Or put a different grease in it? I did this and this caused the lockups on my ship. I can say that the QuickUK oneway is worth its money, since I bought it it won't lock up anymore. I also have the feeling causes less drag in an auto.

[invrtd]

I did clean the one way and relubed it with triflow oil with teflon, very light coat. This is what I have used for years and never had a problem with any other one way.

I figured the slow to engage clutch was the gap being too large. I will have to go to a machine shop to have them turn the bell to get all the old liner out. Anyone know anything about the new clutch bell on the Raptor 90 3d or is it the same?

I just purchased the push-pull elevator and collective levers for the 3D to put on my SE. The pics in the 3D manual are not that great but I am sure I can figure out how to install them.

Another observation is the clutch itself is nice that thick. The clutch bell is much thicker compared to the clutch. I would thing the clutch would be almost the same thickness, in height.

[Laurens]

I think the R90 3D clutch bell is the same.

Also I think the problem with your oneway is the same that I had, we both used the wrong lube or grease.

[invrtd]

I guess I can clean the one way out again and try a different lubricant. Has anyone seen the new one way unit on the 3D? It appears to have bearings instead of bushings on the top and bottom of the hub.

[Kinger]

Clark - You don't need to take the bell to a machine shop to take the liner out. Just put the bell in some acetone via a small tupperware bowl (don't make it so deep that the clutch bearing gets in there). Let it sit for a half hour or so. The acetone will eat away at the glue holding the liner to the bell and you'll be able to scrape it out with a hobby knife in no time flat.

[invrtd]

Acetone will eat JB weld. Never knew that. Will have to try it out.

[Kinger]

I'm not sure if it will eat JB weld, but I'm pretty sure the liners are not put in from the factory with JB Weld. Unless you have already replaced the liner once and used JB Weld to put in the second liner, the acetone should work.

[invrtd]

I noticed the new 90 3D has a new part number for the clutch liner. I am wondering if it is thicker?

[Kinger]

Not sure on that one. You could always order it, mic it and compare it to an old liner.

[vandelescrow]

Don't quote me but I think the clutch bell and clutch are a bigger diamater on the 3d. That may be why the liner is a different part number

[ColinB]

The clutch and bell are the same from the 90 SE to the 90 3D. I'd go with Kinger's advice and use the SE liner with some paper behind it. It will come out with a hobby knife pretty easy after you soak it in acetone :)

Colin

[Flying Tivo]

I used the aluminum of a soda can cut to the same size as the clutch liner. Glue them both together and voila!!!!

Great fit, no slip.

Felipe