Metal Head

[OzarkCopterBum]

Anyone flying the metal head from Gohbee yet? Not that I actually need one just curious as to how it flies.

[Hotshot Charlie]

Jeff is flying them and I will be ordering some in the next few weeks.

[OzarkCopterBum]

I'm still just banging sticks so it wouldnt really do me any good. I did hit a good lick and paid off most of my CC debt so I am looking at upgrading one of the 30's to a hyper 50. That ought to be plenty for me.

BTW I finally started FF. I had been moving forward awhile and then backing up but a few days ago I just ripped it around and did a really sloppy figure 8. It was BIG fun.

[Hotshot Charlie]

Congrats on your progress !!! Ain't it fun ????

[flyinfool]

Yup, it sure is a good adrenalin rush whenever you pull off something new.
Congrats on your progress.

I am flying the metal head.
The metal head definitely makes the heli quicker to respond and it looks good to boot.

[OzarkCopterBum]

Ooh that IS pretty. If I keep progressing the way I am, maybe I'll present myself with an upgrade opportunity. I'm still getting used to orienting without the chicken sticks and if I leave it in one place too long I do get disoriented till I move it again.

I was looking at upgrading one of the .30's to a hyper .50 but I think I need to spend the bux at the optometrist instead for some new specs. I caught myself squinting at the heli and had a bit of a headache after flying. I guess upgrades come in all forms.

Anyway, Yehaww Gohbee! Keep the goodies coming!

[bobc1]

So this head livens up the cyclic? Any idea how expensive & when it will be available?

[OzarkCopterBum]

Bobc1

Its available now for the low low price of $69.99 at gohbee.com under upgrades.

[Scooterpilot]

For the price, you can't go wrong with the upgrade

[WillJames]

That is a very low price for a full metal head. Yea Baby!!

[OzarkCopterBum]

Yes, gohbee is more than reasonable on their pricing. Plus their little .30 has stood up to over 2 months of my newbie abuse and is still humming along. The only problems I've had with it were very minor or entirely self inflicted.

If I had to start all over and choose again I'd make the same choice. Hopefully Gohbee will start a trend for ALL heli manufacturers and importers so they don't have to be so darned expensive.

[flyinfool]

Bobc1

Its available now for the low low price of $69.99 at gohbee.com under upgrades.

Bobc1
The ratios change slightly since the short link attaches to the grip approx 1.5mm closer to the spindle. This gives slightly more pitch to both collective and cyclic. This is a good thing. :twisted:

I can not get the cyclic responce of my R50 SE to be anywhere near to what I am getting out of my Stinger 50. Yet the Stinger is still more stable in FFF. Last night with a new TX setup was awesome.

You may want to check out the Gohbee site. there are a lot of new things there at very good pricing, including engines and electronics.

And don't forget the discount.

[bobc1]

Thanks, Jeff. I will order one right now.

[Scooterpilot]

I have a Raptor .50. Will the aluminum head work on the Raptor .50 and is there anything else I'd have to buy?

Chuck

[flyinfool]

They have not put it on the website yet.
The kit you are looking for is the GB108.
It is the same as the GB101 except the rotor grips, hub, are also aluminum.
The kit retails for $149.99.
Your cost using a field rep's discount code would be $139.49.
This kit would replace everything above the swash.
The Jesus bolt is also a 4mm so you either must drill out the raptor mainshaft (very easy to do) or get the Stinger shaft.
Let me know how I can be of further service!

[Scooterpilot]

Jeff,

Thanks for the quick reply

[bobc1]

I just sent this to David @ Gohbee.

Hi David:

I received the metal head parts for the Stinger 50. I was removing, loctiting, & re-tightening the bolts that attach the ball arm to the metal blade grips when I managed to twist the bolt furthest from the ball off in the blade grip. Not the highest quality bolt I have ever seen but probably as much my fault as anything.

So far, I have been unable to remove the broken portion, although I will try some heat to break down the loctite.

Would you sell just one metal blade grip without the arm & a replacement bolt?

Also, I removed the original rubber dampers from the center hub to use in the new metal head. They are actually in pretty bad shape. I have probably flown about 3 gallons through this heli, so far.

I need to order a couple of sets of those, P/N 10121. Do you have any stiffer rubber or plastic sets available? Are they interchangeable with any other brands that you are aware of?

One of your field rep's mentioned that the metal head blade grips were of a different design than the plastic ones. They look to have identical dimensions to me.

[WillJames]

I am sure David will take good care of you Bob. I have had some conversations with David and Jody Greer at MHA and Black Sheep and on the phone recently and they have some really interesting plans for the future and they are working very hard on their whole line of machines. I am excited to see the future of Gohbee and watch them grow!!

Rock on David and Jody!!! :smokin:

[bobc1]

Hi David:
A follow up to my message from yesterday. I was unable to remove the broken bolt from the metal blade grip & ruined the grip attempting to drill the bolt out. So, I'm dead in the water unless I use the plastic grips with the new metal center hub.

One new problem: The new metal center hub is a larger diameter than the original & it seems the seesaw (flybar fulcrum) bearing bosses are slightly further apart on it. This creates binding on the bearings if the seesaw bolts are tightened. I believe that either the inner bearing bushings could be shimmed between the bushing and the bearing (4mm ID) or a shim placed between the seesaw & the bushing (3mm ID).

This is a very small shim required, possibly .1 - .2 mm (probably two .1mm shims). The bearings are completely seated in the new center hub & the original bushings are installed. It is impossible to tighten both seesaw bolts without creating binding on the bearings.

Has anyone else mentioned this condition?

Thanks,
Bob