View Full Version : Assembling linkage
Dasco
02-18-2008, 12:23 PM
I'm trying to screw the threaded rod into the plastic link - however it's extremely tight. Is there a knack to this? Any tips readily accepted.
CagedVR6
02-18-2008, 12:54 PM
Ya i had a hard time with this as well, i just held the middle of them with needle nose. while having one side of the linkage against my desk and i pushed down firmly wile spinning the linkage on the opposite side. It will eventually go on. Some were much easier than others.
TheBum
02-18-2008, 12:59 PM
One of the suggestions I've seen is to insert the point of a standard X-Acto knife blade into the hole and turn it to slightly bevel the opening. That said, I didn't have any problems threading the links for my T-Rex 600N with no modifications.
BarracudaHockey
02-18-2008, 01:35 PM
http://www.quickuk.eu/cat/general_parts/tools.html
3rd one down, much easier on the finger tips.
TheBum
02-18-2008, 01:41 PM
I got a set of these from my LHS and I suspect they'd be even easier on the fingers:
http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=KSJ737&Category_Code=Remote_Adapters
darkchiild
02-18-2008, 03:34 PM
I'm in the midst of building a trex 450. I noticed there's a small gap in the ball link pliers I have that's just the right size for holding the rod without marring it. I imagine that's why it's there. Just hold the rod close to the threaded part, push like hell and twist. After twisting a couple times, they seem to go on good.
I did all the links in the kit all at once. My fingers were numb by the time I was done. Wish somebody told me about the gadget baracuda mentioned...
istandalone
02-18-2008, 04:42 PM
i hear heating the plastic ball link up with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften it first will make easier to thread. you can also do this before snapping the ball on the link, for a near perfect fit. of course the JR ball link sizing tool would be better then that, but in a pinch the heat/hair dryer will work.
Dasco
02-19-2008, 11:37 AM
OK guys that's great - thanks for the info.
Another question on linkage, Finless refers to markings on the links, eg there is a right and wrong way to assemble the links on the balls (thanks Finless your vidio is extemely useful). He goes on to explain that each link is marked with the letter 'A' and that's fine I understand that, but on the other side of the link there are numbers. On mine I have:
No 1 link qty 1
No 2 link qty 4
No 3 link qty 2
No 4 link qty 1
No 5 link qty 0
No 6 link qty 3
No 7 link qty 1
No 8 link qty 1
No 9 link qty 1
My question: Is there anything significant about the numbers ie should theybe paired in some way or are they manufacturing marks or something else?
Thanks - Dave
CagedVR6
02-19-2008, 12:00 PM
Just face the A out.
Skarn
02-19-2008, 01:27 PM
As Caged said, just make sure the A faces out...the numbers are insignificant to you.
Skarn
KShep
02-20-2008, 08:26 AM
I'm in the midst of building a trex 450. I noticed there's a small gap in the ball link pliers I have that's just the right size for holding the rod without marring it. I imagine that's why it's there. Just hold the rod close to the threaded part, push like hell and twist. After twisting a couple times, they seem to go on good.
I did all the links in the kit all at once. My fingers were numb by the time I was done. Wish somebody told me about the gadget baracuda mentioned...
Mine were kinda numb too, and I used the same notch in the pliers to hold the rod. I also used the tip of a conical file to open up the end of the ball link (1/2 turn of the file did the trick) which allowed the rod to thread up easier.
hth