View Full Version : Blade 400 - Futaba S3154 Tail Servo
moorec614
02-19-2008, 01:04 PM
Just wanted to let everyone know the Futaba S3154 makes for an excellent tail servo that increases the gyro's holding capabilities remarkably. It only costs $35 as well.
kenny.c
02-20-2008, 12:49 PM
Ill second that!
I fitted one a couple of weeks ago and never looked back!
Ken
ualdrivr
02-24-2008, 11:39 AM
Just wanted to let everyone know the Futaba S3154 makes for an excellent tail servo that increases the gyro's holding capabilities remarkably. It only costs $35 as well.
Hi, Did you replace just the servo? Did you keep the oringinal gyro that came with the B400 or did you go with Futaba G401?
What about the other servos?
thaks
mjr_larkin
02-25-2008, 02:56 PM
The futaba on ready heli says "Futaba S3154 Digital Servo". Newb question: Does digital mean I need some sort of programming device for it?
I've heard of certain servos "burning up" in digital mode. Does that apply here? thanks
balbs
02-25-2008, 06:25 PM
No programming. Analog servos could burn up if you set the gyro for digital servo mode (DS on GY401). Most digital servos can be run in analog mode. However, you won't be taking advantage of its full capability.
Balbs
moorec614
02-26-2008, 08:32 PM
I left the original gyro.
I had heard it was fine, but I wanted to replace the tail servo either way, so I just did that first.
It swaps right in with the original mounts, as it is a micro servo like the original. All you have to do is switch the gyro into digital mode, and re-trim it.
It's about 1/3 faster than the stock servo.
I did not replace the other servo's because I am yet to exceed their ability with my flying ability.
I could however tell the tail wasn't up to par, and I'm sure everyone else will appreciate the difference as well.
It feels like a new helicopter now.
The_Russian
02-29-2008, 04:36 PM
Just wanted to let everyone know the Futaba S3154 makes for an excellent tail servo that increases the gyro's holding capabilities remarkably. It only costs $35 as well.Did you have any wag when you were finished? Did you use the stock mounts? Do you have any pictures of your servo install?
Thanks
moorec614
02-29-2008, 09:25 PM
No, I did not have any wag after the install, but that is more of an issue caused by gain settings to begin with.
The problem with the stock setup is that the servo is too slow to keep up with the gyro.
That's where the S3154 comes in.
It uses the stock mounts, and is a very easy install, swaps right in.
No pics of the install. Sorry.
frisellaw
04-13-2008, 05:46 PM
How do you switch the gyro to digital mode?
SeaComms
04-15-2008, 05:04 AM
There is a switch on the gyro for dig or nor from memory (not in front of me). I switched mine to dig but it became really twitchy. I have also read that the 3154 does not support the high speed switching the stock 110 gyro sends out and it will burn it out - so I have heard....
I read this thread and decided to give this a try. You guys are dead on this is a big improvement. I can hardly believe how much better it stays tracked. I am just a beginner and doing little more than hovering but I would not hesitate to do this again. I would not waste 5 minutes rebuilding the stockers stripped gears. I thought the gyro was maybe not so good but now I am impressed with how well it holds.
I had to reduce the gain around 10% before it stopped hunting. I am still getting a little bit of rebound after a quick jab on the rudder so I may end up reducing the gain even more.
Will this servo still live long with the gyro set on digital? It seems really fast.
carlo_the_wonder_frog
04-19-2008, 02:30 PM
No, its not the correct kind of digital servo, don't expect it too last for very long. I would switch the gyro back to analog.
Thanks Wonder Frog I will do it. I can wreck a servo well enough without overclocking it. This whole digital servo thing has me quite cornfused. The s3154 does not say anything about switching speed.
I have one other question about the 110. Most Heli-for-Dummies literature that I have read says that after you get the intial set-up done (rod legnth, horn position and distance out on horn) that it is best to make your final rod length adjustment in Rate Mode and that from there you will be good to go when you switch to HH. When I do this with the 110 it will not keep the tail in HH.. I can have it hold in Rate Mode but not HH, or verse visa. If I trim it to HH then it piro's in rate. Am I missing something or is this just the way the 110 is? I have set up a gy401 on my K50 this way and it is always perfect.
carlo_the_wonder_frog
04-19-2008, 11:38 PM
Don't use trim, use subtrim.