Well i finally made up my mind Rotorworkz on its way!

[concept1]

well after a few months of thinking and compairing I decided to go ahead and order the Rotorworkz G10 frame! I picked this frame since i believe it gives the most flexibility on batteries along with the best balanceing of any frame out, and it offers a very clean install of electronics. I went with the G10 for hopefully better strenght over carbon and hopefully no glitching! and lastly just for the Cool factor, it just plain looks cool! I would have preffered a direct servo link to the swash, but I felt the other benifits out weigh the links,and the raised position of the servo's on this frame should help with CG.
If I am luck it will be here Friday, but definalty by Monday! I'll keep you all posted!

if anyone else has this frame I would like to here your thoughts or any tips and anything to look for on the build?

[concept1]

Well, I got my Rotorworkz frame, first impressions was WOW, this thing is intimitating, we are talking a lot of parts, and no instructions!
But the parts are top notch, unfortunatly it does not come with any bearings so you need to totally dissmantle your current frame and grab the bearings. I spent about 1 hr on the build this weekend since I knew I could get the manual online but not from home (dial up).... I did assemble all the bearing blocks and have it abbut 1/2 assembled, it really goes together quite well, and I only ran into a few questions, which I sorted out this AM when I looked online at the instructions. I really like the way their motor mount works much beter then stock, so far I am very happy with my choice!! and can't wait to get the time to finish it up.

[lightbulbjim]

Yeah it's a nice frame. I agree with you on the motor mount - good design.

Only thing that looks a little annoying with the frame is that to remove the taid drive unit one of the frame spacers will have to be removed. It's probably not going to be a problem in practice, as how often does a tail drive pulley/gear break?

One other thing is that the gyro mount could be a little bigger (running a Logictech 6100). There's no real way it could be done though and it's fine in practice. The gyro just hangs over the back a bit.

But all in all I agree, excellent frame :thumbup:

[concept1]

got any pics of your setup?

I am looking at this and really wondering what will be the cleanest electronics install. It looks like if I mount my tail servo on the boom I can mount my RX in the frame where the servo goes which leaves the whole bottom tray open and I might be able to swap packs with out removing the canopy? also leaving the Rx up in the frame you can totally hide all wiring!
I don't have my servo's installed yet so not for sure on this, I am adding spacers to my lower frame to accept 8s A123 cells. this will definalty work with lipo but A123 might still need to be swapped from the front, I ran out of spacers..
so far I really like this but it looks like it might have too many options for layout!

[lightbulbjim]

I can get some pics soon. I'm waiting on a bell crank (my frame was missing one from the package) then I'll take some photos.

I went with the lower RX mount. I didn't want it forward, up close to the ESC and motor, and there wasn't really any room at the rear on the sides. I think the battery/ies are still best mounted from the front, as there's a bigger opening there and you'd have to pull the canopy off to strap it in anyway.

[Madedon]

I ve order mine, the Carbon Fiber Frame last week .... Can wait to arive ...Hopefully the end of the week. Any particular problem or thinks we need to be carful with on the instalation?

[concept1]

well really just view the PDF first and it is moslty self explanitory once you see the instructions first!! but when the parts come you might be overwelmed by the Amount of parts! I was supprized at how quickly and easily it acctually goes together. I do have 1 problem on mine that has me hung up. I am using the revco gearing and my main gear mesh is too tight against the tail drive gear. this is really a easy fix, but first I loosened all the bearing blocks and check to make sure all else was good, with mo change in my gear mesh. so now i have to "ream" the bolt holes for the bearing blocks for the tail drive so I can get a little adjustment in it. this should be a 1 time adjustment so I am really not worried about it. and I will most likely just drill the 4 holes 1 size biger and that should do it.

[concept1]

here is a quick pic of my status with my G10, don't look at my messy table!
motor and esc installed and ready to go, servo's in, but haven't decided on wireing and rx layout yet. I ran into a problem, my kit came with 2 lh side bell cranks so , need to get a rt side to finish up.

[lightbulbjim]

I am using the revco gearing and my main gear mesh is too tight against the tail drive gear. this is really a easy fix, but first I loosened all the bearing blocks and check to make sure all else was good, with mo change in my gear mesh. so now i have to "ream" the bolt holes for the bearing blocks for the tail drive so I can get a little adjustment in it. this should be a 1 time adjustment so I am really not worried about it. and I will most likely just drill the 4 holes 1 size biger and that should do it.
I had the same issue, and i just used a needle file to elongate the holes for the talk drive bearing blocks rearward. I would try that rather than drilling the holes out. If you do drill the holes to a bigger size, then consider using washers on those bolts (and you'd probably want to get approx 1mm longer bolts for those blocks to keep the same strength).

[lightbulbjim]

Nice work. One other thing to check, with my kit the two screws that go down vertically through the motor mount and into the bearing block weren't very long, only a few threads ended up in the bearing block. I switched them for some longer ones that went all the way through the bearing block. Just be careful if they come out the bottom that they don't interfere with the gear there.

[Happy|Harry]

looking good concept1, can't you just move the balls to the other side of the bell crank to make it work on the other side?

[concept1]

You can except their are offsets built into it, and it would just look different. But I have to say I am totally impressed with Helidirect, they sent me conformation my new Arms were sent priority Mail about 5 minutes After I talked with them, and just to be sure I got the right one they sent me a complete set so i will be ready for the weekend! I should get it all finished tonight, I have been really bummed I just haven't had more then 20-30 minutes per night to play with this. only thing I have left to do now it radio setup and tie down 1 or 2 wires, and rebuild my A123 packs, from 7s to 8s with my old plastic frame I had been using my 7s pack with 1 cell added by plugs. now I can go 8s brick. all electonics are in and it really looks good, I can say it seems to meet all my expectations so far.