Honey Bee FP....seems really unstable in the air.

[imq707s]

I'm new to RC helis. I have the FMS and Clearview sim software and I've been flying the Honey Bee FP model around in the sim for about a week now. I'm getting very good at maintaining a steady hover, and I'm starting to do some nose out maneuvers.

In the sim I can do pretty good....but every time I try to fly the real thing, it seems extremely unstable and unpredictable. I can keep it hovering for a few seconds, but if it gets a little tilted and unleveled, it's just about impossible to recover it. It just seems like the slighest input on the sticks has a HUGE affect on the heli.

Is that normal for these heli's? I've gone through the normal setup procedures at far as balancing everything.....but it still just seems really unstable. I did notice that it seems to be more stable withOUT the practice gear hooked to the skids.

Is it just me, or are the Honey Bee FP helis really unstable? I'm sure 90% of the problem is that I just need more practice :D

[warpspeed]

Yep, just need more practice. The little ones ARE very twitchy and sensitive to overcontrol.
Don't worry-keep at it. You'll get the hang of it eventually.

[damyxz]

Put flybar weights on and move the swash links inward 1-2 holes. These procedures will make the FP really stable.

[JustPlaneChris]

Actually, I have just the opposite advice, based on my experience with the FP: Remove the flybar weights (which are installed by default on the FP) Why? Because the problem is not that it's too sensitive, the problem is that the controls are so numb you keep feeding input trying to get it to react, then it finally does and then you're chasing it trying to get it to stop!

If you live fairly close to sea level, the best trick to increase stability is to clip the blade tips about 10mm to slightly increase the headspeed. If you live at higher altitudes, this might not be a good idea, as they are marginally powered.

Adding more flybar weight and moving the servo connectors inward will just make the situation worse, IMO.

[martiol]

Actually, I have just the opposite advice, based on my experience with the FP: Remove the flybar weights (which are installed by default on the FP) Why? Because the problem is not that it's too sensitive, the problem is that the controls are so numb you keep feeding input trying to get it to react, then it finally does and then you're chasing it trying to get it to stop!

If you live fairly close to sea level, the best trick to increase stability is to clip the blade tips about 10mm to slightly increase the headspeed. If you live at higher altitudes, this might not be a good idea, as they are marginally powered.

Adding more flybar weight and moving the servo connectors inward will just make the situation worse, IMO.

I agree, the weights delay your input. You just end up chasing it. (Pilot induced oscillation)

[imq707s]

Thanks for the help guys. I pull the flybar weights off, and it's much more responsive to my inputs. I can keep it hovering for about 5min now before I have to put it down. Much better than before.

Thanks again :thumbup:

[foo foo fighter]

wow i did the same to my hughes 300 and it does way better thanks for this thread.:thumbup:

[Wrongway]

What are you guys doing about balance? I have experienced the same problems with my HBFP and it appears to be very tail heavey with the batteries in the rack provided. When lifting off the main skids will lift and the tail will remain in ground contact until I give more power. Any ideas??

[JustPlaneChris]

You need to modify it so the battery is under the 4-in-1. There is no way to balance it with a lipo battery otherwise. Even the stock NiMH battery doesn't work well in the stock location. Not sure what they were thinking when they designed that! :roll:

[damyxz]

Some of the guys here used the super skidz upgrade and they are able to securely mount the battery more forward.

[Stump3r]

I fly the Walkera #4 which is basically a clone of your heli, get the superskids! The added weight increases stability and you can move your battery as far forward as you need to get the COG correct. Best upgrade ever for any FP machine.

[Jimbo 44ch]

I am basically lazy. What I did to my stock HBFP is put about a 1/4 oz of lead all the way forward in the nose. Balances just fine with a 2 cell TP 1300 and it flies great and forever, 15 plus minutes with this setup. Jim

[ashewb]

the eflight wiki has a section on hbfp trim and tune so to speak

[jimw1956]

If you use the stock NIMH you will have to put 1/2 oz. of weight in the front, or at least that was my experience. I use a 2S lipo mounted under the 4/1 and balances it fine.