Forever Static Freeeeee!!!!!!!!!

[PTFlyer]

I do believe that the metal tail case is clear anodized........I checked wit a volt meter and couldn't get a reading so I have to conclude that it too is anodized just not colored black like the boom.


So if you are grinding the anodizing off the boom and counting on that to ground the metal tail case but not grinding off the anodizing on the inside of the metal tail case, my bet would be that the tail case isn't being grounded.


this raises the question to myself that if anodized aluminum is non conductive why would that need to be grounded.......which brings me back to the belt and the material that the belt is made from

[psindrup]

I do believe that the metal tail case is clear anodized........I checked wit a volt meter and couldn't get a reading so I have to conclude that it too is anodized just not colored black like the boom

Why not just remove the anodizing from the inside of the tail case, to assure connectivity.

The metal tail case is the #1 solution - in my opinion - because it has a metal pulley too.

Peter

[BlackTitanium]

I do believe that the metal tail case is clear anodized........I checked wit a volt meter and couldn't get a reading so I have to conclude that it too is anodized just not colored black like the boom.


So if you are grinding the anodizing off the boom and counting on that to ground the metal tail case but not grinding off the anodizing on the inside of the metal tail case, my bet would be that the tail case isn't being grounded.


this raises the question to myself that if anodized aluminum is non conductive why would that need to be grounded.......which brings me back to the belt and the material that the belt is made from

Grinding? :shock:
A bit excessive! Just use sand paper.
Sand the tail boom and the inside of the metal tail case.
Also, remove the side plates of the tail case and sand on the inside where the two pieces meet.

Use the ohm meter to check continuity. You only need to sand enough to make an electrical connection. It doesn't have to be totally bare.

[BlackTitanium]

Hi,

This is what I did; I didn't check with a voltmeter the continuity but that should be OK :D

http://www.gamani.org/mab/d.JPG




That is excessive!
I think you have weakened the tail boom.
I would suggest replacing that tail boom.
Just use a fine grain sand paper. It does not have to be completely bare, to make an electrical connection.

And, you need to make sure that you have continuity from the tail case bearing to the boom mount bearing.

[jurassic5]

Hi,

No issues here :D It's because I polished dremeled it :D The tail boom is still mad hard :D

Cédric

[psindrup]

Hi,

This is what I did; I didn't check with a voltmeter the continuity but that should be OK :D

http://www.gamani.org/mab/d.JPG


Damn!
Did you use an old fashioned grindstone to remove the anodizing? :smokin:

I know you have answered it already, but I tend to agree with BT that you overdid it quite a bit. Sandpaper or coated abrasive would do the trick and a lot more gentle.

Peter

[jurassic5]

ehhe I understand, but the photo gives a bad idea :D I just remove the black coat which is not solid. It looks really OK and really not weakened by the polish. Just weird because there's a big difference between the black and other area.

it's really fine and no issues here, tail is rock solid.

Cédric

[Finless]

Torkboy.... Today should be a good day to test for static here. At least up here in OC we are having DRY Santa Ana winds rolling in from the desert. Perfect static test conditions :)

Bob

[torkboy]

Bob,

Hehe yea sounds like perfect conditions, if only I didnt have school and work.Im typing this right now on my new touch at work, it'll be awesome for IRCHA.

[DVS]

Would this mod work with a carbon fiber tail boom?

[jared_of_atlanta]

Yes because carbon fiber conducts electricity.

[CoronaL]

only if you've upgraded to metal tail case then? Assume it would do nothing for anyone with stock plastic tail case!

[BlackTitanium]

Would this mod work with a carbon fiber tail boom?
You would use the same technique on the carbon fiber tail boom.
Sand the non-conductive coating off the ends of the CF tail boom.
Verify continuity with an ohm meter from end to end.



http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/3180/img364902xz2.jpg

[Astennu]

You would use the same technique on the carbon fiber tail boom.
Sand the non-conductive coating off the ends of the CF tail boom.
Verify continuity with an ohm meter from end to end.



http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/3180/img364902xz2.jpg

I did a similar mod yesterday for the boom holding block. Its also grounded to the frame now. Got 60 ohm of resistance from the back end of the tail to the front end of the frame.

Now i need to wait for my metal tail case, metal bearing blocks and my Jazz 80a to get it RTF.

BT thanks again for the pictures :)

[DVS]

Thanks guys, I thought that it would work but wasn't sure.
Has anybody tried it on the 500 with a CF tail boom ?

[merlin703]

OK, I just completed building my 500 last night... I still have to make sure everything is working well (radio, servos, etc). I'm new at this so help....

I'm a bit confuse with all this going back and forth. I certainly don't want to do 2, 3 or 4 things to achive the same results that one thing would.

If I'm not mistaken to fix the static problem with the TREX 500 I have to:

1) get an Align metal tail case (if so, where can I get this?)
or
2) ground the tail boom as so many pictures have shown (does this has to be done on both sides of the tail boom... ground it to the frame AND the tail???).
or
3) make soup out of your plastic tail parts (boil it with fabric softener or so).
or
4) use graphite or silicone spray on the belt (I think this has to be done every few flights, corrent?).
or
5) set up the heli way that a freak did here (receiver under the battery tray, satelite by the rudder servo, etc etc PLUSH grounding the tail with what I said on #2?).

Sooooo, is this correct I only need to use one of the methods listed above or ALL of them??????? If it's more than one method I need to use I guess I will have to find the tool you guys have been using to check for static... what is the name of this tool? is this something that I can get an my local hardware store?

IF ALL I need to do is replace the tail boom with a metalic one, please let me know where i can get one. I just finish my heli, I hope to be able to fly it for the first time this weekend and it would crash me if it goes down on my first flight :( :arggg:

[bobby619]

Hey Torkbud,
I just did the same thing you did. It works! I verified by waving my AC detector pen thing across the boom. No more static. YAY!

I think it would be great idea if Align would make their booms without anodizing on the tail end.

[psindrup]

-> Merlin703

Personally I believe you should do two mods.

1) Ground the tail belt case to the boom.
Either by the way of the "wire mod" that has been shown several places here on HF or
Buy the Align metal tail case, and make sure it makes electrical contact with the tail boom

2) Ground the negative from your battery to the motor mount plate.

And then I would lube the belt with either petroleum free silicone or Graphite 33
(Some love the Graphite 33 idea, (I do) because it alone solves the static problem, others hate it, because they don't like the idea of having graphite "flying around" in their heli)

Peter

[torkboy]

bobby,
glad if worked for you I was starting to fear that it might not work for people.

[heliboy88]

Jason,

If i'm reading your first post about your 'static free fix' right, you just change the stock plastic tail case to the metal one and that's all? Of course you sanded off the anodizing on the boom. If that's really the case then it's a very good news to a lot of us freaks here.

regards,

[ChasHeliCop]

I did the metal tail case this week, and still have static on th main gears, front tail gear and front part of the boom. That is running it with NO blades. The front gear is still producing static.

[psindrup]

I did the metal tail case this week, and still have static on th main gears, front tail gear and front part of the boom. That is running it with NO blades. The front gear is still producing static.

"How much" (I know it is difficult to answer) ;)

Try to lube your tail belt with Graphite 33

Peter

[torkboy]

Jason,

If i'm reading your first post about your 'static free fix' right, you just change the stock plastic tail case to the metal one and that's all? Of course you sanded off the anodizing on the boom. If that's really the case then it's a very good news to a lot of us freaks here.

regards,

Yes thats all I did.

And as Chas pointed out, I sitll have static in the main gears, and tail blades, but I didnt have anything on the pulley area, inside that area, front of the boom, or on the boom.

[merlin703]

Thanks Psindrup,
I will follow your advice and will groud it that way... I just order the metal tail belt case and included extra blades to get free shipping :D

[ChasHeliCop]

"How much" (I know it is difficult to answer) ;)

Try to lube your tail belt with Graphite 33

Peter

Hey Peter,

I am going to do another video to show this. I am trying not to lube the belt anymore, but following what Fireup has done, looking to find and eliminate the cause of the static. I am also going to try a mod to the stock tail case to see if that can be used without static. Theorectically, the metal tail case works to eliminate the static because it's an open case. I know the proximity of the boom block to the belt could be part of the problem. Additionally, I have metal main bearing blocks I will be installing to try and ground the main shaft. Anyway, things will work out.