View Full Version : Finally flew it
Kindling Maker
02-27-2008, 10:13 PM
I finally flew it. Just a short hover but I got it in the air. I got a 8 min flite. I flew it next to an office that housed our company Safety Rep, he really complained. His main complaint was the noise. In his words that needs to be outside, it has to be over 90 DB. Then it was where are your safety glasses, where are your gloves. Can anyone imagine trying to fly in GLOVES? It was so much better than the CPPro. much more stable and alot more power. I did find one thing that I am not real sure about. has anyone found a problem with getting it in the air and then once it gets into the air the RPMS come up even more, I think it was me just not waiting for it to spool up enough but I am not sure.
sokal
02-27-2008, 10:21 PM
in normal mode the rpms go up as u move the stick
half stick is 50% rpm
100% is 100%
u will find this in your thro curve
hove usually is at 3/4 stick 75% rpm
u can adj it in their as desired
i recommend leave it a stock settings
the only thing ive changed in normal mode is the pitch curve
made it pitch less in the - direction when below half stick
Kindling Maker
02-27-2008, 10:58 PM
cool thanks
sokal
02-27-2008, 11:33 PM
if u can fly the CPP then this thing is no sweat
just de-sensitize the center in cyclic using the D/R expo menu set the INH of the AILE AND ELEV to +10 to +20 (+ is less touchy and - is more)
and may need to speed up tail
Kindling Maker
02-28-2008, 08:24 AM
That is cool, if i can figrure out the RADIO.
JimLerch
02-28-2008, 12:03 PM
. I did find one thing that I am not real sure about. has anyone found a problem with getting it in the air and then once it gets into the air the RPMS come up even more, I think it was me just not waiting for it to spool up enough but I am not sure.
Were you in a 'stable' hover while the blades RPM was increasing? (IE to maintain alt you had to keep lowering collective?) If this answer is "yes" the indeed, you didn't wait for the "Soft Start" sequence to complete.
Three ways around this
Spool up to 0 pitch and wait for head speed to stabilize. (I think soft start is 15 seconds??
Spool up until head speed is somehwhat fast, then slow head speed down for a second (decrease collective in NORM flight mode), then add the power back in (this bypasses the remaining soft start.)
From dead stop, push collective to slightly above hover position and enjoy the incredibly smooth spool up into slow climb out (Looks and sounds neat IMO) of course if soft start fails you may find the heli doing the funky chicken till you hit throttle hold :-)
Heli Jim
02-28-2008, 02:05 PM
What you did is start to fly before the motor was completely spooled up. This
ESC has a "soft start" which allows the motor to spool up slowly to the setting you have
on the stick. It can take 10-15 seconds to fully wind up.
Perfectly normal......
hcopter51
02-28-2008, 05:56 PM
in normal mode the rpms go up as u move the stick
half stick is 50% rpm
100% is 100%
u will find this in your thro curve
hove usually is at 3/4 stick 75% rpm
u can adj it in their as desired
i recommend leave it a stock settings
the only thing ive changed in normal mode is the pitch curve
made it pitch less in the - direction when below half stick
So u r saying, 4 a stable hover use the stock settings,and only change the pitch curve? Also allow it to go thru its soft start....Yes?? Thanks....
sokal
02-28-2008, 06:36 PM
for a stabe hover it all in your fingers/ thumbs in a hover think of the collective.throttle stick as your hight 50% is ground 75% is like a eye level hover
now anticapating everything is key
now when up higher doest mean you will hover with stick at like 90% its still around 75%
75% is like the happy medium. this also depends on your pitch range +10/-10 some use diffrent to suit thier style. 1 way to practice your rock solid hover is to find an obect like a fresbee or like in kind and parctice saying over it.
start with a bigger mark and wor your way smaller you will find that your going to pay attention to more than the rotor disk and you will find your hover will become very solid
another good trainer is make aproches to your object ie slide away slide back, fore and aft.and return this will fine tune your decels. and precision.
a good hight training is hover chest high then drop to a foot then back, also can do above head chest then low and repeat
these are the things iv used to fine tune my flyin hope these might help you
iv found if i made a game out of it i learned more
sokal
02-28-2008, 06:39 PM
also if your a thumb flyier and feels like your hover looks like a rodeo try the thumb and finger method it may calm your over correcting.
skigolfmike
02-29-2008, 08:12 AM
Or, if you fly thumbs, increase your expo a little. Chip Hyde is a thumb flier, for example.
Be careful with expo though because it IS a double edged sword. Expo does not change overall throw, just sensitivity around center. When you get into high expo numbers it makes the controls more sensitive past mid stick, which, from my experience, can cause problems.
Generally, what I have always used expo for was to make the controls feel linear when using "normal" control throws. With big control throws, I use just enough expo to make the flyable at center stick.
I don't want to start a thumb v. thumb&finger debate here. I've seen both types of fliers do very well. The advantage thumb fliers have is the ability to move the stick quickly. The advantage thumb&finger fliers have is they usually are more precise around center. YMMV.
Kindling Maker
03-01-2008, 08:47 AM
Cool! I had read the book but I went back thru it and REALLY read it and found the soft start sentence. I really dont like the E flite manuals. I though tthat that is what was happening but ya'll just confirmed it. I have not had a chance to fly it since my last flight. I have been outside the wire running a loader. 12 hours of wearing a 60 pound vest and a 25 pound brain bucket really wear you out. I am used to trucks getting out of my way, but the M1A1 doesnt get out of anythings way. Plus these little Iraqi kids love to play around the loader or any equipment for that matter. If you dont pay real close Attention it is real easy to run over something, or someone, and not even know it.
sokal
03-01-2008, 10:28 AM
dont worry the aviation guys will come get ya and cool u off
B co 5/159th AVN BDE CH-47D
Need a celing fan
sokal
03-01-2008, 10:30 AM
Or, if you fly thumbs, increase your expo a little. Chip Hyde is a thumb flier, for example.
Be careful with expo though because it IS a double edged sword. Expo does not change overall throw, just sensitivity around center. When you get into high expo numbers it makes the controls more sensitive past mid stick, which, from my experience, can cause problems.
Generally, what I have always used expo for was to make the controls feel linear when using "normal" control throws. With big control throws, I use just enough expo to make the flyable at center stick.
I don't want to start a thumb v. thumb&finger debate here. I've seen both types of fliers do very well. The advantage thumb fliers have is the ability to move the stick quickly. The advantage thumb&finger fliers have is they usually are more precise around center. YMMV.
man u put it better than i could
Leftyatm
03-01-2008, 09:40 PM
Exactly what heli jim said. If you take a quick glance at your owners manual, I know its hard to we just want to charge and fly but bear with me. The delay you mentioned is a safety feature. It allows for slow starts on the motor to ease with gear mesh as well as in case of a sudden or accidental bump of the throttle. The manual states it usually takes up to 15 seconds for it to reach the exact rpm the throttle "is really at." It also states for safety sake of the heli that if you set it down and it sits without throttle for 15 seconds or more, it will start this delay over again.
sokal
03-01-2008, 10:03 PM
i always spool up to 50% before i lift off , that way if im off the ground when the thro hit proper speed it wont erratice in the air for that moment
just like Thro hold good practice and safe
LockMD
03-01-2008, 10:16 PM
Same here, I spool up slowly. the tail bounces around too until the head speed is nice and high/steady then I lift slowly unless its windy like tonight. 15 mph guswty winds is about all I can handle, I'll move around turns and what not but when the wind hits I'm getting pretty good at bringing back to tail in without over correcting that way I can concentrate more on the throttle to correct the wind throwing/pushing me up/down. 3 packs in this wind NO carshes (knock on wood) I want to do 1 or 2 more but its getting pretty dang cold and the wind just makes it worse we'll see............
Kindling Maker
03-02-2008, 04:39 AM
I am rite by the airport so I always have aircover at a moments notice, it is nice having the Redcatchers here. Do they still use 5606 in the chinook, last one I flew in leaked so much that I thought that it was bleeding.
sokal
03-02-2008, 11:41 AM
HAHAHAHHAHA LOL
Well we use both types 83282 and 5606, 83281 is for everything but blade dampeners.
yes its true to point if its not leaking somethings wrong.
if u have ever been to ft irwin i crewd those moc-up hueys witch probly killed ya.
well thanks your soilder in our Army and be safe.
Kindling Maker
03-02-2008, 11:23 PM
I have been over here for 4 years now and have yet to fly in a lawndart,(Black Hawk). I get nervous every time a Chinook flys over, It is the only thing in country that can have a Midair with itself. That said, There is nothing in the army that can do what it does. I grew up on an airport, and we had alot of old round engines, and they are the same way, If it aint leaking dont get in it cause something is wrong. Nothing leaks as much as the B-29 FiFi, when I was younger I was on the oil crew for the CAF during Airshows, Everytime it flew we had to take 4 55 gal. drums of 50 weight to it, one for each engine.